jp1
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Posts posted by jp1
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Great feeling, right . Now what are you gonna replace the screw with ?
Find a good Hardware Store or mail order a box of Stainless Steel M6 X 20mm Flat Head Allen Screws. When the head ( hex / allen recess) 'starts' to show signs of rounding, THROW IT OUT and install a new screw !
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bobble, assuming the HEX of the Allen Screw is stripped (rounded) and NOT the threads try this. Take a small hammer (round end of a Ball Pein will keep from damaging area around screw) and gently tap the 'mushroomed / raised' hex area of the screw back down flush with head of screw. This will 'close up' the hex. Now take the proper size allen key (make sure it is the proper size and the end is NOT rounded.) If it is, grind it flat like a new one OR get a new allen key. Hopefully you will have to 'tap' the allen wrench into the screw, line up the allen wrench in the hex and gently tap it in untill fully engauged. Then try backing it off as normal. When you get it out, Throw It Away. With Flathead Allen Screws, ANYTIME they start to show signs of rounding the best thing to do is throw them out & install new ones (cheap insurance).
Here's what also works for me on Flatheads often, as long as the threads are not 'picked up'. ALWAYS, soak them in Penetrant as long as possible. In this case, you should be able to get it (Penetrant) up from the bottom. I'd fill up the holes from the bottom and leave them sit overnight. Then taking a sharp Center Punch, punch 1/2 way between the outer edge of the head of the screw and the allen key recess. First, straight down to get a good deep punch mark (this also 'shocks' the screw & threads). Now tilt punch on an angle and strike punch as to move the head of the screw in a counter-clockwise direction.
If this don't work, like Chris H. stated, drilling the heads off 'should' be easy. The recessed hex will act as a guide. They are Stainless so they will be tough, use a good cutting fluid, slow speed lots of pressure. I'd still start with a center drill of the proper size & doing the drilling in a Drill Press would be advantageous (to keep it straight and controlled better) but not required. I always still drill all the way through the screw / bolt if possible (specially if it is going nice and straight). Then you have a good centered foundation to work from IF the screw does not come out as easily as you would hope. Very often when working your way up to a larger diameter, you will 'stick' the drill bit (it will grab) and you will walk the broken piece right out with the drill.
I have also had luck using a regular drill bit and grinding the flutes as to cut when drilling counter clockwise (like a left hand drill bit) then when the drill bit 'sticks', it backs out the broken piece.
Good luck.
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skidad62, if you have access to the problematic screw from the back, drill it out from there. Being a Maintenance Tech. by trade I deal with my share of damaged fasteners all of the time.
Let-Go / Nutbuster penetrating oil is the first thing I do and let it soak into the threads as much as possible. Another thing that works well is 'smacking' fastener with a sharp blow (hammer, hammer & punch) depending on application. The sharp 'rap' shocks the threads and often is enough to allow fastener to be loosened. This works well with flat head allen socket screws that are stripped out also. Tap the stripped (mushroomed) area around the allen hex back down flush to the top of the flathead. If it flattens into the allen opening, all the better. Align an allen wrench to the opening and gently tap it in with a small hammer, often fastener can now be removed.
In your case, if you can acess from the back, center punch middle of stripped screw and drill a pilot hole, the closer to the center the better. Often if screw is not all the way engauged into bottom of thread, the threaded hole can act as a guide for the proper sized drill bit. I often use a Center Drill of the Appropiate size whenever possible. They are generally harder and a Center Drill will not flex, like a small diameter drill bit. Drill a pilot hole through until you just 'touch' the broken screw extractor. Go carefully and gently and you will feel when it hits it. Then apply more penetrant and let it work into the threads from the back. Work your way up in diameter until you get to a size where you can use a drift punch and punch the broken extractor out from the back. Then you can continue your broken screw removal. Centering the hole is key, because if centered properly you can often drill out the broken screw until only the threads are left. Determine what size threads you are dealing with and do not exceed the diameter of the proper drill size for that thread size tap. If need be run a tap into the hole to clean it up. 95% of the time with persistance & patience you'll get it, other than that it's off to the machine shop and EDM, Good Luck.
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serge, and anyone else, please do NOT interpret this as any negativity towards the BTS! I just installed the BTS and think it is awesome so far, and haven't really started to fine tune it yet. I also do want to point out that I have a non-recommended application (HEAD Stratos). I also may be 'pickier' than most, but Boot Cant does in my case cause a slight bind in the system, hence the original question.
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Interesting that you should post this topic. I haven't been on a board in 3 years and it's like starting over again. I've been re-hashing as much information as I can in my head & trying different things that I have read.
The other day, while installing Bomber's BTS, I noticed that my 'Boot cant' interferes with the BTS operation. Because the 'Main Shaft & Lower Bracket' are attached to the heel of the boot and the 'Upper Case' is attached to the upper boot, 'Boot cant' puts the 'Upper Case' of the BTS on an angle to the 'Main Shaft' thus creating a bind.
If I have bindings that are adjustable for cant, why do I need the cant adjustment in the boot ? Would I be better off setting my 'Boot cant' at Zero, and getting the desired cant I want with the bindings?
I'm thinking this would keep any bind in the BTS to a minimum, allowing it to do its job better, any input?
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Spent the morning in a Blizzard! They had most of the guns blowing directly under the SixPack and guess where it was aimed :(. MANY :AR15firinunhappy people. Why they didn't just run the Quad
if they wanted to blow snow under the SixPack is beyond me. I miss the earlier opening time, Otherwise, a good day. -
queequeg, "I have made a few mods to MY HSP's that have really improved the comfort and ride of the boots for me ... once I'm all finished up I'm going to post my results."
Just curious, a year later what the results were and how you like them? I just installed my BTS last night. Found a real simple way to 'spot the top hole' for the BTS. Once you've determined the desired location, with the 'spring housing' in place, just shine a bright LED flashlight through the plastic from the back, and mark the center! Drill with a pilot drill (small) then, after verifying center, work you way up to desired diameter. With 'spring housing' still in place, using it as a drill guide simply drill through it into the other side of boot. Worked great for me (not HSP, just Stratos).
From everything I've read, Can't wait to try them, but curious as to your input after using them :). Thanks -- jp
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Greg, no problem, I don't even want to ride with myself right now
! Feel like I'm starting from scratch AGAIN............ -
"razor didnt open until 10;30 but just a touch too soft" , Dang I packed it in 5 minutes too early, Maybe even I could have gotten an edge in? Anyway, legs were wasted :( it was the 'right thing to do'.........Good seeing you Chubz, riding looked Awesome.
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I emailed you also, but IF they are Step-Ins, I will take them. Can PayPal immediately. I know you said they are like (Holmes) picture, which are NOT Step-Ins, but have to ask.
Thanks -- jp
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Gecko, is the angle on that rear spoiler legal? I've always been going to do that, except cut teeth into it about 1/4" high across the top. Neat sticker to.
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wally, Thanks fo the Information ! I'll check it out. I like you, bought it for FIT.
Thanks Again -- jp
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b0ardski, I seen the link on the For Sale board before, but couldn't link to it.
I just checked it out. I've seen them on boards in pictures but never seen one in person, so without seeing it don't totaly understand how it works. Sounds like it's basically a full plate that 'floats' on the topsheet ? Is it a Carbon Fiber material or a just a fake CF finish? It looks pretty thick (height), so I'm guessing it is hollow? If it is hollow underneath, is their a layer that contacts the whole topsheet surface of the board? If not do you think it would still help keeping the Titanal topsheet from buckling? Any experience with them?
I guess I can get the Specs. (width) by going to the F2 site and finding the widths of the boards they are on? Doesn't sound like the Seller want's to be bothered. Do you have any idea of what they 'go for' in a store? Seems anymore, ebay is not for buyers as much as sellers. Many times I've bid on things that ended up selling higher than what I could buy them and have them shipped to me for.
3 days left, it's in my Watch List.
Thanks -- jp
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cory, that makes sense (the stress on the inserts) something I hadn't thought of. Maybe the better bet would be to go with the 2 piece idea (Alum. & Teflon), split the Aluminum (top piece) and leave the Teflon underneath in one piece as it will flex ? I'm trying to keep the weight in consideration also. I actually think the 2 piece system may be lighter also, as Polycarbonate is pretty heavy.
Thanks, anyone else ? -- jp
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Donek, Sean, that is just sickening
to think that they actually have the brass to say that to your face! "We want nothing to do with a company involved in the alpine market."Thanks for posting, It is good for me to know how the rest of the Industry feels about someone & something I respect!
All I can say is, Karma! Keep up the awesome work you do for us!
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James, Thanks, I was wondering about that. I thought about painting it on the backside, but figured the paint would wear from the friction between the board and the riser and eventually create a mess. We have some 'smoke' tinted around that may be better than clear. If not, we have a Plastics Supplier in the area, I can buy colored polycarbonate from I think.
Has anyone painted theirs, if so how did it hold up?
After seeing the results
of riding on Titanal toposheets the past couple of days (sick, seeing all these boards breaking) starting to re-think this whole thing. I may go with a 1 huge plate (shaped similar to a conshox)? Even thinking about making the spacer out of .060" 6061 Aluminum and sandwhich a thin layer of teflon (.020"ish) between the plate and the board. Yes, I think it will effect the boards performance :( but maybe it will keep it in 1 piece and rideable ??
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Wal-Mart, Target, Sporting Goods Stores in the toys & bicycle section, they usually have cheap plastic sleds, sounds like that would be just what your'e looking.
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Allee, same here. I was a pretty good skier. Did a couple of stints in ski school, I loved to ski & loved Killington, then started going out west. Awesome trips, problem was I had no desire to ski locally anymore. Started 'snowboarding' as a challenge. Then one day back at Killington on the board I see this guy TEARING it up! I was mezmerized. I could 'carve' on skis (Elan SCX) before I started on the board, but what this guy was doing couldn't possibly be legal. What the heck is he doing, what the heck is he riding? Looked like one of 'them skiboard things' to me, but he had ski boots on? I knew then and there, whatever he was doing I wanted to do, or at least try. Eventually I ended up on the lift with him (stalked :D him) and found out it was an 'Alpine Snowboard' and equipment, I believe his exact words were "The Superior Carving Tools".
Well, I had just purchased a brand new Never Summer Premier, didn't even have a whole day on it, I couldn't go out and buy all new gear now
could I? YES.:)I haven't been back on ski's since I started to board & still don't have a full day on the Never Summer.
I didn't get his name, but he had to live in Rutland!
Chubz: I hope you weren't tearing up all that 'fresh powder' @ Blue !
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Mike T, This particular board has the metal top sheet. Bruce was nice enough to answer an email I had sent him. I don't have the board in hand yet, and didn't ask for the numbers when purchased, but it sounds like it is one of the earlier ones that did have issues with Cateks mounted to them. It's not what I wanted to hear, but I APPRECIATE the Truth, at least now know I need to try something.
Thanks for the reply, Happy New Year--jp
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Ok, while we are on the subject of helmets, I need to ask a question 'hopefully' someone can answer. I had a Boeri (full helmet) which I really liked for I'm guessing 8 years. When I put it on for pre-season check, the foam in the lining was deteriorating, so figured it's time for a new one. I always liked the style of the full Leedom's and had tried them on in the past and they fit my weird shaped head (amazingly) and WERE, SNELL Certified. I bought last years model (has more air vents) Leedom, Scream Cut. I like it, it fits me good, new goggles (foam was bad on old ones also) don't fit as nice as I would like, but I'll get use to it.
Question is, does anyone else here have this (LEEDOM, Scream Cut) model ?
What in the world is the 'raised cut out' centered in the back of the helmet for? When I purchased it, I 'figured' it was to hold the goggle strap in place. Seems reasonable, it's right where the strap goes, nice little raised cut out, looks cool & would act as a vent & hold the strap / goggles to the helmet, or so I thought. It turns out that the buckle on the goggle strap is centered on the strap as most if not all the goggles I've ever seen are, and the buckle will NOT fit in the cutout. I figured I could just offset the buckle to one side or the other. Wrong, I cant move it far enough, and buckle interferes. The strap itself fits nicely into the cutout, seemingly like it was designed. I've emailed Leedom, they don't respond. I've called them to play 'the phone game', they won, I gave up. I'm hoping maybe Smith (goggle manufacturer) makes a strap without the buckle that fits these goggles, as that seems to be my only hope. Does anyone have this model helmet and know how to make it work?
Thanks, Happy New Year--jp
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Sorry to hear about your board.
Yea, I seen where someone had posted a to use a fine blade. I've found that a fine blade tends to over heat (melt) the polycarbonate and ball up thus clogging the blade easily, unless you run it at an extremely slow speed. Personally I have found a coarse blade in a bandsaw the best. If you don't have access to a bandsaw a coarse blade (like a wood blade) in a variable speed jig saw is awesome. When you hit the right speed their is hardly any finishing work needed, other than light sanding.
I was thinking the same thing as far as shape. I guess some use the parallelogram shape because that's the direction the binding sits on the board and you probably wouldn't turn the binding the other direction, and or estetics? I'm more interested in dispersing the maximum amount of energy over as big of an area as practical. I even tossed around the idea of making one large plate to cover the area of both bindings (sort of shaped like the VIST plate, open in the middle between bindings) to try to get all of the energy to the edges of the board. But I think that may inhibit the way the board was designed to work, I feel keeping feet independent may be better for general riding?
Thanks for the feedback & Happy New Year--jp
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OK, it's been over a year since the last post. Yea, I'm behind everyone else (been off the board for 2 years) but want to ride as soon as the weather ever decides to co-operate.
Since I bought a used Metal Coiler, I've been reading everything I can for the past couple of days about board/binding interface. I have Catek Olympic SI's (OS1's) with the standard elastomer so have some concerns. I will at the minimum for now make a 'distribution plate' as Bordy and others recommended out of .100"-.250" Polycarbonate whatever we have (luckily I work with it often) and of coarse compensate for the added thickness with longer stainless steel screws. I'm thinking 7 1/2" X 11", radiused corners and edges.
My question is, since it has been over a year, what are some of your experiences with what you made yourself. What are some of the Pro's & Con's? Are you happy with the results? What would you do different? Larger,Smaller? Different material? Did you notice any difference in ride or performance?
Just curious, I always seem to get a good input here. :)
Thanks-jp
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Video says it's on their website, but it is not there yet (I called yesterday) and was told "it will be posted soon".
You can probably get Polycarbonate at Home Depo, Lowes, Plastic's Supply, Hardware Store or a local Fabrication Shop.
Don't forget, for whatever thickness Polycarbonate you use, you will have to get screws that go into the inserts that much longer (preferably Stainless Steel).
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BadBrad, do like me, just run down to your local Alpine Snowboard Shop :lol:OR (if you haven't already) try some of the 'Links/Equipment' on the Main Page here like, All Board Sports, the Starting Gate, or Hardbooter.
if they wanted to blow snow under the SixPack is beyond me. I miss the earlier opening time, Otherwise, a good day.
! Feel like I'm starting from scratch AGAIN............
cycling gear
in The Lodge
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canuckcarver, Try borrowing a friends Camelback to 'try' it. I felt the same way you do BEFORE trying one. Now seldom ride without it, even when I was training ( and yes it drives the Traditionalists crazy
) You may be surprised how un-noticable it is, and it certainly is nice to feel assured that you have whatever you need.
If I had enough room under my jacket, I'd be using one while riding.