jp1
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Posts posted by jp1
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Just 'staying tuned'. :)
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Pa, also !
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oldacura: "What's the purpose of padded shorts? "
If you ever get a Hematoma the size of 1/2 a basketball
on your right buttcheek, you'll know what the purpose of padded shorts is. It may not be something you won't recover from, but it certainly WILL be something you won't forget! 
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The one with the best rider on it !
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Awesome
Clean/Sharp/Simple, no clutter does it for me. I really like the Diamond Plate look also, probably because I work with metals. Both of these boards graphics personally appeal to me far more than the Prototype Graphics. To each their own. Now you have me thinking about putting some 'vinyl Diamond Plate' on my older Donek, and see how it holds up. -
How Nasty do you want to get?
Go to Home Depo and pick up a couple of long Milwaukee Sawzall Blades.
18 Tooth Bi-Metal if you want to be nice.
6 Tooth Wood/Plastic if you really want to get the message across.
Grind them to the proper width of the tail and lay them in a bead of clear silicone sealer on a 30*-45* angle.
That should get the message across.
:AR15firin -
steve, best place for used gear is right here. Most of the people know and respect each other and are honest (like Family).
On the East Coast about the only game in town as far a new gear (or stuff you got to see touch or feel) goes is the Starting Gate @ Stratton. It's worth the drive, Good Luck.
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Dang, that's probably more than we will get all season!
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Wow (old school power snowboarding par Regis Rolland) was that before sidecut ??
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Have to agree with others, I like the older DONEK font and Bird.
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Fin: Thanks for the update. I know what you mean, I decide I wanted to make a Isolator / Riser plate assembly at the end of the season (March). My goal was to get maximum rider input to the edge of the board, and hopefully provide some isolation between board and rider. I've been waiting 5 months to try them, so you can only imagine the drool when I seen your concept! I don't have access to a milling machine at present, so they are Barbaric but should provide a baseline (does the basic design work, yes / no).
I think most agree (and are excited) with your concept, and respect your need for more feedback before proceeding. We also know of your 'track record', and know you'll get it right before it is released to the general public.
Thanks for letting all of us in on this Project !
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Was dreaming of snow and logged on to Bomber. I just read through this whole thread (Awesome job Fin as usual) and great discussions.
Sorry, but have to ask: Any more Updates, Feedback, Results ???
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"Three weeks after the event, I ran across a shot someone got of me. Technique needs some work but all in good time. I'm only 62."
Gives me something to 'grow up' for :lol: You are my hero !
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Keenan, "I think the plastic of the boot may be rubbing together."
Without a doubt, and that's where the majority of the stiffness & friction come from. Lube them up and feel the difference. In the past I've used 303 Protectant & Armorall, recently I've been using Silicone spray with seeminly good results. Once a week spray them real good, making sure you get it between the boot and the cuff (where most of the friction is) spray your Intecs (if you have them) along with the bindings, BTS and any moving parts, wipe off excess and your good to go.
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Boots done (BTS & Mods.) and shipped. The Orange plastic is the worst I've done to date. I've done the Smoke and Black, and the Orange is the 'funkiest' to work with. The Black was the easiest to work with. The Orange easily clogs sanding drums and sanding discs, drills likes it extremly soft, so be careful when working with it.
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oldacura," I wouldn't have thought that an LED flashlight would shine through 2 thicknesses of black plastic but I'll give it a try."
My boots are Orange, but I didn't think it would work either, but tried it and it did!
I just started on another pair of HSP for a friend. Figuring I would take some pictures this time around for reference, I was
'shocked' when I went to shine the LED Flashlight through the plastic to get a picture !! (NO light !?)I lied above when I said my boots are Orange! My boots are actually the Head Stratos (not Pros) and they are Orange / Smoke Gray (sort of transparent gray). While the light does shine through the Transparent Gray real nice
, it doesn't even come close :( on the HSP Orange! I did do the Modifications on another friends HSP's that were all Black, but he didn't want the BTS installed, so I don't know if it would shine through them or not, but after seeing it on the Orange, I doubt seriously it.I did find a better way
to 'shim' the BTS for clearance, I used (4) thicknesses of 1" masking tape (.020"), but it wont do any good if the light don't shine through.So for this pair, I'm basically in the same boat as you. I used the dimensions I stated above to locate the centerline of the pins, I'll drill them out tonight along with doing the cutting & grinding for the Modifications.
Just wanted to let everyone know about the 'LED deal', before someone called BS
to it !! -
I'm on my 3rd FWD vehicle with Blizzaks (4) all around
& won't change until I'm sold there is something better.When I find something I like :) I stick with it ..........................
I had people tell me
years ago, "you need separate winter tires and summer tires". I thought All Season Tires were fine UNTIL I started using the Blizzaks! Now it's 2 sets of wheels and tires or nothing for me. -
oldacura," I wouldn't have thought that an LED flashlight would shine through 2 thicknesses of black plastic but I'll give it a try."
My boots are Orange, but I didn't think it would work either, but tried it and it did!
.020" was an arbitrary number, clearance is clearance (as long as you have some).
It's tough to put a number on where the pin is in relationship to the 'shiny spot', mine are actually a little different from the inner cuff to the outer cuff. The centerline of the pin is approximately at the very edge of the 'shiny spot', if anything a little 'in' towards the centerline of the cuff.
One thing I have found after doing a couple pair of boots is that they are obviously molded, and the tolerances do not hold true from boot to boot, even in the same pair. This is one of the reasons I like working with the BTS & shim 'in place' rather than working from the 'top' surface of the boot as you will with a fixture. I know the BTS is fully seated to the maximum depth I can get with clearance.
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snowboardfast, Without a doubt, To each their own, but to go from Reds on bottom and Blues on top, to all Yellows seems like a big jump to me. Have you tried Blues, Top & Bottom ? If you look at the spring rates, it's pretty easy to see the pattern Fin more than likely designed into the BTS system.
The pattern to me seems to be the Bottom spring is approximately Twice the spring rate of the Top spring (when staying within the same colors). I'm pretty sure more thought was put into the BTS system than meets the eye. I'd guess the spring rates the designer came up with as 'starting points' were because of the systems geometry. (Go ahead Fin, blow my whole theory here and tell me you just grabbed a hand full of springs and painted them 'pretty colors' :D).
Example:
Blue "Long" Spring = 144 lbs./inch.
Blue "Short" Spring= 320 lbs./inch
With the Red "Short" Spring = 656 lbs./inch in the bottom, and a Blue "Long" Spring = 144 lbs./inch in the top, you have more than 4.5 times as much spring rate on the bottom than the top on a system that seemingly was designed for approximately 2 times as much spring rate on the bottom as the top.
I'm not 'ragging' on you, heck I'm still dialing in my own set up, but just feel staying closer to the 2 to 1 ratio of spring rates 'may' be beneficial.
Like KC, I started with Blues Top & Bottom simply because they were the 'mid-range' of availability. I ended up finding I liked riding best with 'minimal' spring preload (on the Blues). This indicated to me I could go with a spring of less rate, so I actually researched and ordered springs of a slightly lesser rate than the Yellows. They seem to be a 'tad' too soft, so I think I found where I need to be (Yellows) to make me comfortable (and maybe they'll be the ticket for you also, I hope so, just a big jump) !
Keep after it, you'll find it
. That's the beauty of the BTS System, the adjustability you certainly did not have before. -
oldacura,
Can you explain again on how you used an LED flashlight to locate the spot?
Locate the 'Upper Case' (with a shim for clearance) precisely where you want it. Hold it down tight to the boot by hand and shine a LED flashlight from one side (at the shiny spot) as if to shine it through the exact path the pin/drill will take. Having a third hand may be helpful, but I did it with two. The light will actually show through the plastic on the one side of the cuff, through the center of the Upper Case and locates precisely where you need to drill on the other side. Works even better on the other side as the plastic is now drilled out on that side. Shine light through drilled 'pilot hole' through BTS and the light will locate where opposite hole needs to be drilled.
Measuring will obviously work also, but because of the angle of the 'plastic boss' I had a hard time figuring exactly where the hole would be, so I thought of trying the flashlight and it worked for me.
Maybe I could spot the 2nd hole with the largest bit & then switch to a smaller bit for the pilot hole.
Yes, the ground angle of the drill will help act as a center for the smaller drill bit. Also, I said 'go slow', but that depends on how your drill bit is sharpened and the shape it is in. Sometimes going faster ( and holding back on the drill to keep from 'sucking in' is better, but I wanted to stress the 'suck' plastic will have to anyone not familiar with working with it. Plastic will also have a tendency to 'swell' around the bit. In other words , if you drill a hole with a .193" drill bit, you will not necessarily end up with a .193" diameter hole (it will be undersized) which in this case is a good thing to keep pin 'tight'. Water, or soapy water also acts as a good lubricant/cooling agent when drilling plastic, but we are not dealing with enough material in this case to worry about that, but it can help.
Heck, at this point I hope you have done the 'Head Boot Modifications' shown by Arnaud. If not (check out that video, again) & seriously consider doing them as they WILL optimize the BTS function! You wouldn't put $2000 worth of Koni adjustables, Eibach springs, struts and sway bars on a vehicle that was 'all bound up' would you :D. Go for it, you know you want to........
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oldacura', that is where I would drill the top mounting hole for height. I pushed the BTS Upper Case 'in' deeper so I would have the maximum amount of material (plastic) around the hole for more strength. So the hole is actually drilled closer to the centerline of the cuff.
Poor explanation, I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.
I feel drilling the hole exactly where that 'spot' is would not be as strong as if it were deeper (but you don't want the BTS rubbing, causing a bind / friction either if possible).
What I did was, put a (shim).020" feeler gauge between the BTS and the cuff, pushing the BTS in as far as possible at the height of the 'spots' you were referring to. Shined a LED flashlight thru from the other side and believe it or not was able to spot and centerpunch with an automatic centerpunch the precisely where I wanted to locate the top holes.
As I said before, go easy the plastic will want to 'suck' the drill bit in FAST. I started with a small drill first, running the drill at low speed, then worked my way up to the proper diameter. If you do both sides independently, you'll probably end up with one side you'll be happier with than the other. Drill has a tendency to walk when drilling on an angle. Use the best hole to drill to correct size, then with the BTS and 'shim' in place run the drill through the 'good' hole, thru the BTS and out through the other side. The BTS will act as a guide, key is to go SLOW and not let the drill bit 'suck' the drill in. You may actually try holding it back, plastic can be tricky, Good Luck, you'll
Lovem. -
Jesse, how'd you like :D the Tohickon?
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Without a doubt ! After about a dozen western ski trips, I had absolutely no desire to ski on the EC any longer :(. That's why I started to board
, needed a challenge. Then I seen someone on one of those 'long skinny boards' at Killington, the rest is history.Never been west on the boards, I'm half afraid that I'll like it so much the same thing will happen, or I'll need to move.
Hopefully
I'll find out next year at SES. -
paulk's riding, that guy is 'mesmerizing'.
on your right buttcheek, you'll know what the purpose of padded shorts is. It may not be something you won't recover from, but it certainly WILL be something you won't forget! 
:AR15firin
years ago, "you need separate winter tires and summer tires". I thought All Season Tires were fine
banked gs course - park feature
in Racing
Posted
Fun Parks are awesome. Hobacks @ Jackson Hole were the neatest Natural Fun Park I've ever been at! We had a blast there every day & that was on 'sticks'.