Jack M

Yes, time for a new ride! These days you want to look at Madd, Donek, Prior, Coiler, F2, and Volkl. Here's an article with tips on buying a new board: http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/how_to_buy_snowboard.cfm

welcome to my world. :rolleyes:

Crispin Cowan??

Confucius say: "man who walk through subway turnstyle sideways going to Bangkok!"

Is it supposed to be all "solarized" like that, or is my internet broken? Rippin' heelsides, especially for '95.... how are your toesides now? ;)

I have no info, just some pics Wayne sent me. I'll call it the "Road Rod"!

Right, I posted that because people were mentioning my avatar. But here's a heelside: http://bomberonline.com/JackM/jm_profile/heelside.jpg

Gotcha, oldvolvos. I agree on the chest. Gotta disagree with RicHard here, starting a heelside carve with weight forward is very important. That's the foundation of the whole turn, imo. Feed the dollar. And since it's being so discussed here:

Kipstar, If you didn't mean to post in this nearly 3 year old thread, let me know where you meant to post and I can move your post and all the posts after yours to the right thread.

Is oldvolvosrule looking at the same pictures I am? Because I see your right hand out in front of you in each pic. It appears from these pictures, especially the bottom pic, that your hips are rotated <i>back</i> slightly, as in, towards the edge. Your hip angle appears lower than your binding angle. If this is true, there's some funkiness going on there. You at least want your hips facing your toes. In each picture I'd like to see a little more forward drive with the rear knee. Don't forget to drive the nose hard at first and then settle back for the second half or third quarter of the turn. You might be reaching for the snow a tad much with that front hand, and it looks like there might be some shoulder dip in the bottom pic.

If you really want one board to rule them all, a Factory Prime is definitely not that. Get a Donek Axxess, Prior 4x4, Madd BX, or Coiler AM. And when it comes time for a new dedicated carver, the FP isn't the latest and greatest either.

That's true. However, I can't think of a single forum without postcounts. We'll discuss. Been using the search and delete functions, eh Dave? no way you're at 18.

The forum does tend to get more edgy in the months leading up to the real carving season, which in the east is frustratingly still several weeks away. Also the yearly increase in membership (a good thing, remember?) magnifies this "forum PMS". The moderators simply cannot read every post or even every thread. Please feel free to use the button on each post to report violations of the posted rules, even if someone's just being a general jerk and you can't pinpoint the violation. It's anonymous to the forum members, and you won't be branded a tattle tale. I'll chat with Fin about possibly requiring more accountability somehow. Good idea, keep 'em coming.

Phil, I personally usually ride aligned with my binding angles, as you recommend. However, I've found this advice is often simply not enough for new carvers who don't know what they're feeling, and who are suffering from the surfer style of facing the toe edge on heelside carves. Usually they can start a heelside facing their bindings, but the board rotates underneath them and they finish the carve facing purely down the fall line as their board traverses across it. Often in my instructing experience, I found I had to overshoot the target in order to hit the target. Telling a student to reach their trailing hand forward throughout the carve was a good way to get them to stay with the board. Whether this aligned them with their bindings or the board, the results were always a marked improvement. On another note, I'd also argue that at binding angles around 60 degrees, a 30 degree twist in the body is not going to be significant. But I certainly wouldn't advise anyone to twist beyond the nose of the board.

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/practice_drills.cfm

You'd need a Canon for that. :p

Bulb. Shutter stays open as long as you hold the shutter button down. Not sure why this is called "bulb" and not "hold" though.

I honestly don't understand why anybody doesn't use toe lift, but I know it's a big personal preference issue. Using toe lift puts you in a centered, neutral position. Not using it shifts your weight forward at all times. I personally cannot relax on my board without toe lift.

I could just google this I'm sure, but this way is more fun. I'm pretty sure a "stop" is double or half the light of the next stop, right? But what does this equate too in terms of shutter speed and aperture? Assuming a constant shutter speed, is going from f/2 to f/4 one stop? And assuming a constant aperture, is going from 1/60 to 1/120 one stop? (bad example, I don't think 1/120 exists on most cameras, but you get the point)

Set your camera on 'P' mode - that stands for "plaid". Brittney's vajayjay will not come in any clearer. pssh. ban this!

Smaller aperture (bigger f/#, like f/8, f/11, etc) = greater depth of field = more of the scene in focus. Helps improve sharpness of less than perfect lenses. Larger aperture (smaller f/#, like f/2.8) = less depth of field = less of the scene in focus. This gives you effects like this where the eyes are in focus, but the ears are not.

http://www.bomberonline.com/store/accessories/liners.cfm With Thermoflexes, I buckle my boots on the first notch, get better performance, more circulation, more warmth, and I don't take them off or even unbuckle them all day.

Consumer reports doesn't know their ass from their elbow when it comes to this stuff. Put down your mouse, and go buy a Canon SD700IS. You'll thank me later. The SD630 has a massive 3" LCD which is awesome, but the SD700IS has a 2.5" LCD and a viewfinder, which you will need to take pics on a bright snowy slope. And it has Image Stabilization, which actually works and is very useful.

it's almost as good as this job:

widen that stance. I ride 19.5" with a 31" inseam.