Flywalker

No idea. Previous boots were Burtons and l had a 3* rear cant and no toe lift up front. My stance was also 48cm and now it's 51cm. l'm 5'10"(178cm).

Has anyone figured out how to stop these things from bleeding black over everything?! Great gloves but now l have paw marks on my boards and on my jacket too. NOT cool.

Burton bindings 7* wedge on the back foot flat up front with 2, 1 mm sheets of plastic under the toe block giving a slight lift. Works great. l run red tongues all the time for all conditions on the same grey boot as earlier pictured. Unlocked for pow and locked for groomed. Perfect for me at a shade under 80kgs without gear.

Agreed! lf your goal is EC please spend some time on the extreme carving website. Burton, F2 and Bomber Sidewinders are what you want. Catek bindings are bear traps. Rossignol make snowboard boots?!

If you can find a Sims CON 166 they are great. Tight sidecut as well, something around 9.5 or 10. 27/21.5/25 and floats in pow well with that wide albeit low profile nose. Designed by Mark Fawcett and uses a Volkl wood core. Wicked board. Not quite as wide as you said but because of the sidecut and wide nose it's still very good off the groomers.

First in line if/when you make the decision!

EXCELLENT! This is exactly what l am looking for (^_^) Between you and WinterGold a whole new world of shopping has just opened up for me! Thank you!

Heheh... I bought his other maple leaf Coiler last March... the 185 NSR "Widowmaker" as he called it. Haven't ridden it yet and not sure if l will after my misadventure with another metal board. Do like the graphics though Funny to see Polaris's and Stevo's signatures right after each other...LOL!

Question for ya Mr. Deere... That's the second board l have seen you sell with the same graphics. Why did you choose them? You're obviously not a fan :D

Just for the hell of it l sent Mr. Kessler an email. I don't expect a response let alone any kind of result, however thought "nothing to lose but 10 seconds". l'll let you know if anything comes back.

Mr. Shred... Those Oxess boards, especially the one on the left, look VERY nice. l'll have one of those in a 170/20cm please :D Just found out today from one of my race team members that l need some sort of special insurance here or l can't enter a race. Apparently, if l already had this insurance it would cover the cost of replacing my board. Nice to learn this now. Insert four letter expletive here

Hey Scrapster... Yeah l moved the board around my floor and remeasured two or three times. There is definitely a difference. The most noticeable thing is the resistance when pulling up on one edge or the other. The board was a 171/22.5 cm custom model with a 10/14/12 VSR. l hadn't used it for racing but was going to from the beginning of this season. Yesterday was the first day of the season and we(team members) were just having a free slide to get the cobwebs out. Another member bent his Coiler AMT last weekend. They aren't immune, either.

Hi Tom and Mike! Thanks for your posts. lt was the inside pad for me as well... front yesterday and a rear one last year. l'll contact Fin and see what a new set will cost sent over here. In the meantime l'll see what the ride is like with the blue ones once l find another board. Coming from Burton bindings however, l suspect they will be a little stiffer than l'd like.

It was purchased used from another BOL'er last season otherwise l would. When l got it there was no problem at all nor was there throughout last season. I didn't get that many days on it... maybe 12-15 in total. The previous owner may have done even less as it was one of many boards in his quiver. I don't imagine any warranty will extend that far.

Blasted off some shots. l have never uploaded onto BOL before so not sure how to do it. l'll put them on my photobucket and add a link. There is a +2mm lift on the right side of the board compared to the left side when someone stands on the bindings and another measures how high the nose comes up on either side. The edge also leaves the floor sooner on the right side, measured from the front binding. If one places their fingers under both edges near the nose and alternately pulls up there is less resistance on the right side which would indicate that this side has been bent/twisted and therefore weakened. Pics to follow... http://s1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa459/Flywalker-1/

Thanks again WG! I appreciate your input (^_^) Normally l ride with the 3 degree cant under the rear foot and flat footed up front but with the UPZ boots l thought it may be better to install the higher one due to the boot's stiffness. I'll try both and see how it feels. My coach offered me a new R17(Burton) for $200 and l was wary of taking it because of the 20cm waist. After reading your posts l feel much better about going for it. Cheers!

I am curious to know what other people's experiences are. In my experience for the size of boot l have, a 20cm board would cause me to boot out... or so l thought. As previously mentioned l had to set my binding to 48 on a 21.4cm board to avoid this. Mind you at that time l was in Burton boots. Some of the people who read or respond to this post may be internet carvers... however, as has already been proven, someone with a very similar set up has responded with information that l find very useful.

Hi WinterGold, Thanks for your post. My boots are also UPZ RC10's and l am also using Burton/Ibex bindings. Normally l have the 7 degree cant under the rear foot. I've seen some of your vids and you have NO problem at all. I wonder if l could bring the binding back one notch to 48 with the cant plate on a 20cm board...? lf so, the options open up a lot here. Could you please tell me your stance as well? If you are riding flat with UPZ boots which are laterally stiff l would guess that your feet are quite close together?

I'll try that as soon as l have another board.

So today l almost lost one of the E pads out of the toe block. It just came loose, left it's location and was hanging out there. I was able to stuff it back to where it belongs while someone stood on the opposite side... but this shouldn't be happening. Anyone else have this experience... and if so, how did you solve it?

This season l am going to start race training. My coach over here in Japan said to me that for the size of my boot, 27, l should be able to get down to a 20cm waist without worrying about overhang with the back foot at 45-48 degrees. Sorry... but l find this really hard to believe. My last board that l rode for years was 21.4cm and l had my rear foot set at 48. l could crank the board way over and not worry too much about boot out but dropping to 20cm l don't see how this is possible. l am a not a big fan of riser plates so that probably needs to be factored in. Heel and toe lift are all good, though. Coach says back foot shouldn't go over 50 degrees. Maybe it's a Japanese thing.... dunno. It's almost impossible to find a board here with a waist over 20cm and most are 18-19cm. What are your experiences? l see some merit to keeping the back foot as shallow as possible... but do you find, in your experience, that 45-49 degrees at the back foot really matters? Have you mounted it more steeply with no issues? Do you buy your boards considering their width or buy the board and mount your bindings according to what angles the board will allow?

First day of the season. Custom Kessler. By mid day l was finding it hard to stick a heel side turn. Thought that, well, it's the beginning of the season and maybe l was tired. Nope. Bloody thing is bent up and twisted from the front binding. l am so totally p!ssed off. Give me old tech and a lively glass board any day. You can keep your metal.

Mine just arrived all the way to Japan. They were a bit slow but all in all no sweat as our first day out will be this Sunday.

Pics of the Prior please flywalker68 at gmail dot com

LOL! That's some funny sh!t :D