TLN

Hm... There's no such detail in F2 as pictured. At least I haven't seen one, and there's no much space to hide :) But you can get a parts from yyzcanuk. I bought a pack of T-nuts this fall.

Well, I came to another question about the mounting the plates :) Should I center my axles position or my foot position? For example, I'm running 48cm stance, if I decide to mount a plate with my axles 8cm wider, that's 56cm. I can go: 1. Mount front axle 8cm forward from where my front foot was. After I put my front foot 8cm back from front axle, my foots will be over the mounting holes, when I used the board without plate, and my stance center stays where it was before. But as the front axle moves forward, center point between the axles goes forward as well for 4cm. 2 Or I can put axles symmetrically, say move front axle 4cm forward, and rear 4cm backward, so the middle point between axles will get to where it was without a plate. After this all my binding position shifts backwards for 4cm. My front foot stays 4cm back from where it was. 3. all the possible configuration in between those two. What's the correct, or better say most used variant? Do I want to center my stance over axles or my bindings? Personally, I'm leaning to number 2, but still unsure. PS. Yep, I understand that's kind of a personal preference, but I'm looking for a starting point, and trying to collect some opinions on that.

taper is 303-286=17mm, which is pretty big, I think. This board was build to ride on the edge, and I see no reason to go flat on this. You will be way stable when riding on edge, with very wide turns. Just swinging from edge to edge when riding almost straing line.

Stiffest: Salomon Malamute, Burton Driver X, Deeluxe spark. Widest: well, I know there's Salomon Synapse Wide for one who have wider foot, they're not as stiff as Malamutes but around 7/10 while malamutes are 9/10. You can also consider moldable liner as used in a hardboots. I see no problems using it in a softies. But it will probably make your boot softer and send you extra $100-200 back.

If I understand the physics right, if I put the axles right under my foot - board will be a bit more turny(=softer), as I got extra lift, and this makes bigger lever. Pretty the same as I have my burton Risers mounted on the board, right or even softer, because board can bend easily, and typically plates are higher. I've watched couples of videos and both same: mount axles 5-7cm(Sigi) or 6-10cm (Donek) wider then your stance so front axle gets right under binder bail. and rear axle gets right under rear bail or heel. Is that correct and how most people riding the plates? May be you've moved from this to any other configuration?

Wonder if there's any generic how-to on how people should mount the plate? I've seen some video where Sigi shows how to mount a plate. He says that typically you want your axles 6-8cm (2.5-3.5") wider then your stance. And you put your front binding 5-7cm back from fron axel. And rear binging places right over read axle. Obviously, if you put your plate wider - board will feel stiffer, and if you put axles closer - it will be softer a bit. If there's any articles or forum posts, that might be used as how-to to find a starting position? I remember that someone(Sean?) wrote here or on video, that many people have their plate mounted non-properly. So what is the proper position to mount the plate?

Well, I think he should start with something, so why don't start with one of the best boots? He won't be able to make a copy of .950, but if he keeps main ideas of them - this can be useful for sure. I've heard that the position of cuff pivot point make them special, they bend just right. Might be a foot plane too(UPZ have a higher heel for example - and different foot plete degree). Or buckle positions. I guess there's not that much points that make them special, but you need to have this say 5 main points done perfect.

Digging some info on board or a website. Great carving BTW.

Well, the only hardboots I have is UPZ RC10. I also have a Deeluxe 325 but they're sized more then I need, and on sale. I don't want to get another pair of hardboots for freeriding as I'm happy with softboots/don't have that much snow/don't wanna pay what it cost and so on :) I've seen guys in Siberis ride swallows with F2 Race ti and RC10. But this were whose guys who switched to Plastic Freecarve binders because of an extra flex. For now I got some doubt, if this is a good idea to give it a try Undertaker + RC10 + either Race ti or Freecarve or keep riding it in softies.

Hmm.. Quite interesting opinion. F2 Carve RS or Proflex ratet to 70 kilos max(thats for carving). I've already heard that some people prefer this to metal F2 Race Ti binders in powder, and I was also told that it's quite safe, even if you're 70kilos+. What do you think on this? I got a Proflex and Rossi swallow. Think about to give it a try, but still unsure if this is a good idea. I'm quite a big guy (say 210-220lbs and 6"4) so this matters :)

Nope, UPZ have on shell for three 0.5 sizes 312 shell for US9-9.5-10 sizes. and 7.5-8-8,5 with 299mm shell. Actually if you're going into maximum size of three, like US10 or 8,5 - that is great. You will use all the volume and can change to moldable liner later. If you're going with US9 size(312 shell) and decided to go with moldable liner, you're most likely need to change shell one size smaller. I've measured my foot, it's 290mm, and I went with 28.5(us10, but UPZ marked as 9.5 size) - that's the biggest in 312mm shell. After a season I've changed to moldable intuition and it's all great! Some say that with 290mm foot I can go with 299 shell. Now I believe that this is possible, but you need someone experienced to help with molding.

Hi. I got one, but I'm in Kazakhstan. Donek Incline 180, with 28cm waist. I got an easier way how to get a board from US here, but I got no idea how to ship it there for a such price. If you're interested I can post a photos or try to figure out shipping quotes.

I got a same problem as you. I remember that I've sanded a resin on a bottom of a binder a bit. Not sure if it helps. Probably not. But what helps - is that I put a screws wider. With 4x4 holes in a center you can see a neighbor holes, so you put screws like 4x6 cm pattern, or even 4x8 - don't remember. You won't be able to adjust a stance width without unscrewing, but your binder won't rotate occasionally. Sorry for my bad English.

Wonder if I can rephrase the question like: what boards would you get if money were no object. Any boards, even from past years, any modern board. What would be your quiver? Keep it real, pls, I mean no: "all the boards of the world in my garage", say 2-3 boards, like typical riders have.

My vote for a swallow. This is the best for plates, afaik. I've only tried mines with softies, because that's my 1st season on them and I'm really amazed! You can order some custom Prior with smaller width. I've heard a really good feedback from an owner of such. 23cm waist powstick I believe.

There is really useful UPZ boot size chart on russian board, I believe pokkis already told about that. You're probably need to learn russian or post your feet length for a perfect sizing idea. I've folowed it and I'm pretty happy with the result. FLO liner wasn't really comfy, but I got a max size for a shell and I'm now using it with a Intuition liner.

Almost what I think about it. If it is really that cool - first who will buy a licence and use it are the racers. Money is not an object there, the board + plate cost over $2000. But noone have a magna there. May be this is because racers, and typically carvers can properly push the board and this makes all the edge stay on snow. People who don't push their boards that hard have three major points: tips, and one in a middle. So 6-7 points of a mange-trection really helps them. But when you push your board harder you have all your edge in contact, then you don't need magnetraction.

Guys, may be this is not a appropriate topic to ask, but does anyone contacted Bruce recently? I cannot reach him from Friday. Neither via phone nor by email. I'd really like to post something new from him in that topic, and figured what I need, but I don't know whether he's building it at the moment, and the season is almost here.

Used it for a season. Quite painful, but the boot itself is way better then my previous oversized deeluxes. I got a 290mm feet, got a 9.5 = M28. After I sold a liner, I bought a Intuition PowerWrap 28.5 and molded it. Now it seems to be allright, but I havene ridden it yet.

That new carbonium topsheet on Coiler looks cool. May be you can post more close-up photos from a differen angles? I'm in between this and regular black p-tex for my next stick.

If it fails, I'm second in line. Shipping to MA, 02072

My vote to 700. With 220lbs you can be confident with it. I've changed 325 to UPZ RC10 and find that latter way comfy and responsive. With track 700 the fit will be a bit different, but I bet you'll love it after a couple of days.

You got mail.

I got one. 180x28. I got occasionaly some swallows and wanna go shorter. Don't know about shipping from Kazakhstan, but if 180cm doesn't scares you - I can figure it out.

Looks cool, but I'm more interested in something around 180. Longer is better, or may be I don't want to go less, then I got before (4WD 179).