1xsculler

I've received very good help in an email on this issue and it makes perfect sense. When carving on the edge very little of the base is touching the snow. When changing edges between carved turns it appears, when looking down from a chair lift, that almost nothing touches the snow for an instant. So, I don't see how a concave base could make any difference at all for carving. Riding on a pretty flat cat track might be a different story.

I like that Russian vid, too, because of the progression starting with totally skidded turns.

I have a Burton Alp 71 with an edge high concave base, i.e. about 1mm. I doubt I can take enough off of the edges to get it flat. How important is that? Filling the concavity with wax and scraping across the edges might make it flat for a few runs or more, right?

Want to buy Track Free 69s size 28, with or without liner.

I need a translation. What are zipper lines, throwin and threes? 3* inward cant I understand. What angles front & rear and what lift front and/or rear?

Is ze knees apart pretty much required if you want to hard boot on steeps and bumpy slopes? It seems like it would be.

Yes, still for sale.

Reading the article about keeping ze-knees apart really struck a chord with me. I remember giving up carving about ten years ago for several reasons and not being able to carve on bumpy and steeper terrain was one of them. I had found a sweet spot in an upright position but it was useless when steeper and/or irregular runs were encountered. I now have to go back to the drawing board and learn how to get down and dirty with some shock absorbers in my bag of tricks. Thanks again.

It seems that angles more like 60/55 or 60/50, or 55/50 or 55/45 might be more conducive to keeping ze-knees apart.

Thanks for that article, Mike T. I'll forget 55/60 and start thinking about my knees and body position.

Do any of you carve with a bigger angle at the rear? I feel that is something I need to try based on how my legs and feet feel torqued. I'm at 55/55 now.

I'm not far enough along to know whether I want flex or not.

I rode my new F2 titanflex stepins yesterday for the first time and I'm too much of a novice to make a meaningful judgement but I can't imagine wanting more flex in a binding.

I guess the TD3 SW SIs provide for E-pad controlled lateral movement where the traditional TD3 SIs don't, right? Do the F2 Flex Ti SIs allow for similar lateral movement?

Is the Swoard a cambered board?

Are the designs/shapes, dimensions of the old blue Rossi, Maverick Purecarve and Swoard Extreme Carve boards similar for a given length? What angles are the extreme carvers using on their 21 & up cm wide boards, i.e. 60/55 or? The description info says they use wider boards so they can run smaller angles.

Very good condition Deeluxe Track 700s, mp 28, no liners, $250 + $30 for shipping. New UPZ RC8s, mp 29, no liners, $350 + $30 for shipping.

Very good condition Deeluxe Track 700s, mp 28, no liners, $250 + $30 for shipping. New UPZ RC8s, mp 29, no liners, $350 + $30 for shipping.

Very good condition Deeluxe Track 700s, mp 28, no liners, $250 + $30 for shipping.

UPZ RC8s, mp 29, no liner, $350 + $30 for shipping.

Very good condition Deeluxe Track 700s, mp 28, no liner, $250 + $30 for shipping. New UPZ RC8s, mp 29, $350 + $30 for shipping.

Very good condition Deeluxe Track 700s, mp 28, no liner, $250 + $30 for shipping. New UPZ RC8s, mp 29, no liner, $350 +$30 for shipping.

Deeluxe Track 700s, MP 28, very good condition, no liners, $250 + $30 shipping. UPZ RC8s, MP 29, no liner, like new, $350 plus $30 shipping.

Are 3-D mounting plates available for F2 FlexTitanium or 3-D bindings?

UPZ RC8 size 28 and 29 without liner which is the best way to buy them as the liners they come with are only minimally heat moldable and not comfortable for many folks. It's easy to do a DIY BTS-like rear spring system on these awesome boots.