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nextcarve

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Posts posted by nextcarve

  1. Never been on the snowboardingforum before, but after the "End of Season Rant!" I was curious. I will not comment the thread over there, but neither expected a sequel, especially not here.

    Entertain me, please🍿

  2. The parts of the SG binding may look the same, but they are not. They use ball nuts instead of t-nuts, which means, that there arise no shear forces, when using canting or heel/toe lift. This and the more robust construction in general of the SG binding, is another advantage over the F2 bindings.

    A conversion with F2 Intec attachments would be a tinkering and offers no advantage over the original F2 bindings. 

  3. 1 hour ago, RRrider said:

    I imagine this might be a bit of a bother if one low sides a heel side turn or worse tumbles?  let alone getting up the lift - lol! 

    The belt has velcro to fasten it, so you can attach it at any angle around your waist. Meaning you can point the support, where you screw on your selfie stick, away from your backside.
    At the end of the run you just turn the belt around your waist and screw it off and there's nothing sticking out at your back. This may be an advantage over the backpack solution.

    • Like 1
  4. I've got this mount for the insta360:
    https://store.insta360.com/product/The_Back_Bar

    Not very noticable while riding. The longer you pull out the stick the more you see from yourself. Works for front and back shots.

    Very short part recorded with this setup in the following video (min. 0:22 - 0:33):

    here's a video with more footage (not from me and not snowboarding):

     

    • Like 2
  5. Can't understand why Deeluxe doesn't use more durable hardware. It should be easy for them, but it seems they don't care.

    Last season I switched from my Track 700 to the UPZ RC11 (which is almost the same as the RC12) and nothing broke so far. With the Track 700 all of us (including me) broke the ankle hardware and I even broke a buckle after a few days of riding.

    Of course the RC11 is not perfect either. They leak snow/water and 5 buckles are overkill, but at least they seam to last. The other thing one has to consider is, that they are narrower at the ankle, so I hat to go to the boot fitter to widen them to my wish. But this might differ depending on your feet.

  6. If you're willing to give directional stance another change, it's a good plan (as @staples156 mentioned) to play around with the angles until you're comfortable. As a start you can even try it out in the dry. In any case, you should be able to move your knees and hips freely, so your joints can move the way they are designed, without stress or pain. Take into account, that with double positive binding angles, your stance will be narrower than with duck-stance and even narrower with higher angles, because you don't spread your legs that much.

  7. With your boot size and taking into account, what I read about your riding style, I would really recommend you to try out a directional stance with a bit steeper binding angles to prevent boot-outs.

    That way you're more flexible with your boards waist width and you have less limitations with the sidecut radius available accordingly.

    Try that directional stance out on your current board for a start and give it some time to adapt and see if it's for you. If not you can still go the way with an ultra wide board and its inherited manufacturing limitations.

    Regarding the sidecut radius differences; they seam very marginal to me. The flex/stiffness of the board is at least as important, if not more on how narrow or wide your turns will be.
    For the board length and your riding, I would go for longer boards which are more forgiving on higher speeds. On the other hand you lose manoeuvrability and flexibility.

    You have to find your sweet spot yourself and choose on base of what you liked/disliked on you previous boards. It's very hard to give you an advice, without knowing you and how you ride.

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