breeseomatic

Please don't use an O-Sin for a split board, use something crappy and ubiquitous.

This was lonbordin's originally. I bought it a few years ago.

Hi guys, here is a status update: The seller and I are working out the shipping and payment details via private conversation. It's pretty much a done deal unless he decides that I'm too much of a pain in the ass to deal with.

oops, double post

I was told it does put some energy back into the board as Torsion + resists twisting, however, it's addition to "pop" energy is much less than the Energy core. Torsion + also add weight to the board, so the weight may counteract the energy released at the end of the turn. I also watched this video: This rider's style and abilities are pretty close to mine, he's a little better and it doesn't look like a poppy board to me. We'll see if it rides good next year.

I'm not a board engineer at all, here is my rationalization: The closer you can get to a mirrored image of construction, for example: p-tex, metal, rubber, carbon, wood core, carbon, rubber, metal, p-tex (not sure if that is the proper order) then the board will have nearly the same thermal expansion and contraction above and below the core, behaps the camber and energy will be the same on a 50 degree spring day vs 0 degree winter day. Now I ride okay, however, I can not even hold my own when in the company of Mike T, John Gibson, Dave, Corey, et al so I likely wouldn't notice any difference. I've been told that a p-tex top sheet board is more damp. Truthfully, the more damp it is I think I feel a better ride quality. I'm not good enough to control a poppy board, a little bit of chatter is like throwing a wrench in my rusty gears, so I'll take any percieved advantage I can get. I have one board that is a plain black p-tex topsheet, bought from Art (excelsior) and for some reason, I really like the look. I took it in to a shop for some base repair and they commented on how they could run it through the belt to freshen the top if I wanted. That was kind of cool, and they even put a coat of wax on top. It looks brand new, you can't even tell a skier rode over the top of it. So longevity of finish is a concern. Honestly, this is my primary consideration. I have a Donek with a bad ass carbon flame gloss coat and I am just paranoid to hell in the lift lines. I'm always positioning myself and sending out eye daggers to anyone who gets within 10ft of the board. The stress level to keep it looking nice is just too great.

In my opinion, having a little bit of overhang is not an issue for most situations. Go out and carve, if you feel the loss of edge hold in a turn, you may be booting out. I have a 18.5 cm board and 26cm foot. I ride 60/50 and don't have a problem 90% of the time. You can tip your board over on the floor and that's *roughly* how far over you are going to need to go before boot out is a problem.

I want it! Please tell me where to send a paypal payment and how much shipping will be.

Nirvana 174 VCam Torsion Plus, UPM and P-Tex top sheet, 12/14 SCR. I'll give a first impression report when I ride it next year. It's kind of like a form of torture to have a new board on the way, only to realize you can't ride it for the next 6 months.

UPZ ATB (All Terrain Boot)

Depending on what is under the fresh snow and who I am riding with I have different setups: Fresh over day old chop/crud with people who I can never convert to even consider hard boots, or we may do some side country hiking: NS Summit 161, Burton Diodes, Burton softies, it's my lightest setup and most playful, little ability to carve and it doesn't matter. Fresh over hard pack with people who are curious about carving and hard boots, and there is no hiking involved: Dynastar 3800 163, Burton race plates @45/15, Track 700 (looking for lighter options). I can carve inside the resort on the way to the next powder field, handles moguls and chop pretty good for a $200 snowboard. When I know it's going to be over a foot and there are huge bowls or open space to plow through: OSin 4807 169, Burton race plates @45/15, track 700 (looking for lighter options). Need to clip in fast and just go go go. Dust on Crust: Carving board

Donek Saber 160? Carbonium top sheet, non-metal. 25.5cm waist width 9-12m side cut I'll update this thread with a photo.

I may have to buy this back

What are you riding now?

TL;DR JJ, You can start by riding lower to the ground and you should be less affected. The problem is that the ice patch has less edge hold than the snow you were just on, so no matter what you are going to be driving your edges harder than the ice can hold. You will slide, period. With experience and different technique, you can hold the pose, slide across the ice, and hook up when the snow provides more edge hold. I experienced this while being coached by the Pureboarding instructors and it's a pretty good technique for safe boarding on variable snow conditions. I'm going to be in Whistler this Thursday to Saturday, we can hit those ice patches together if you want. Send me a PM for my contact info.

Price drop, $200 plus shipping.

Sold. Arrived. It's nice.

Just as the Title says, I'm looking for 4x4 2nd board kit for a bomber boiler plate. Please let me know the condition, how much, post some pics and payment details. Thanks.

First off, welcome to the forum. Second, speed and edges don't mean carving, so if you don't carve or haven't read the following, please do, it's a good refresher: http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/norm_part1.html http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/norm_part2.html http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/practice_drills.html Third, get used to one thing at a time. Put plates and hard boots on your current board and start figuring things out on something familiar. Change your angles, stance width, binding offset, cant, lift, boot stiffness (walk/ride mode) and feel the differences. Take some notes and then start shopping for a board. I think that you will have a better time finding the European brands, Oxxess, Swoard, F2, Goltes, etc than a Coiler or Donek. As far as a board purchase, just buy something newish and off the rack that is officially marketed as "all mountain carving" board that is appropriate for your weight, you will be fine. Don't put too much thought into it as this board will be a really nice starting point and a springboard into enjoying something new and different.

I'll be up at Mammoth this weekend, bringing an assortment of goodies. Look for me in a lime green helmet, mustard jacket and either blue or white pants. If you find me and say "Breese-o-matic surprise", I'll let you demo my equipment. I operate on the honor system, you break it, you buy me a NEW replacement. Alpine: Donek Rev 185 Donek Freecarve 175 Coiler AM 171 F2 Silberpfeil 162 Freeride/powder: Steepwater 171 Steepwater 164 Donek Saber 160 Dynastar 3800 163 Plates: Bomber 4mm Lite Bomber Power Bindings: TD3 SW Burton Race Remember "Breese-o-matic surprise" has to be the first words out of your mouth, you can't ask me who I am first. Happy boarding!

Mike, that's some amazing info there! I talked to Bruce and he said something about the Nirvana vCam and Torsion+ might be the new hot ticket. Lots of edge hold from the T+ treatment and easy to slide because of the rocker in the nose and tail. I'll have to inquire about a slightly shorter Monster, how wide is your Monster?

Nose: 29.3cm Waist: 24.8cm Tail: 28.6cm Thickness: 12-13mm

I have a 171 that would be in your weight range, the side-cut it 11m, so it could be a decent ride when you are carving, it slides around quite nicely if you don't want to carve it. Here's the ad with photos: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/40843-steepwater-171-steep/

What size are you looking for and how much do you weigh?

The Plow is a bit wider, not very much. If I recall the Steep is 24.8cm and the plow is 25.5cm. I can measure the Steep tonight.