Ear dragger

Does the board have 4 hole Pattern as well as vist holes?

What year was this board built? How Many grinds and shArpenings? Estimate of days ridden?

how bout 50.00

what is the waist on the board? pics? Interested. send me an email to ewhittel@gmail.com thanks

can you please post the specs found on the side of the board?

interested. please send me an email ewhittel@gmail.com . i will answer after work around 4. thanks

send me an email please same as above. thanks

how about 250? send me a paypal request @ ewhittel@gmail.com

I took the liners right out of the boots the day I got them. they have never seen a foot! footbeds included. the liner says "10,10.5,11" on the side. will post pics later today. best offer

i've seen the thread jack, tex i need os2 stuff.

I'm aware of the hard time the company had this past summer. I was wondering if anyone has ordered from them recently, and received the items. I need parts but wanted some feedback from the forum

if you wanna have some play in you're interface, step in's may not be for you. You can always change later on

I'm with him, if there is a question of the toe piece fitting, then go with the rc10's (or the rc8) and get the softest tongue. I assume you want some movement. ride timeless is great ( i ride one for tress, etc). although, you should pick up something with a square tail (used). the ride is going to put you at some low angles, it may teach some bad habits, which you don't want. just a suggestion, and other people may differ. pick up a glass coiler or a donek, or whatever. glad you are getting into carving!!

Back in the days of factory prime, I too ran flat with a rear cant. when I changed over to new tech a couple of years ago, My riding vastly improved. I have found the toe/ heel lift corrects leg position for me. I think you can get lower to the snow with the lift, and I don't get fatigued as easily either. of course the stance width improved the power. I'm not into cant anymore, but that is different for everyones body. I think the toe/heel lift (stance width) is something everyone should give a fair shake.

whats going on with the board?

this board is a fantastic ride! I've seen it first hand, and it is in top condition.

what year is this board made? it will say on the hand written part. are you first owner? how many days have you ridden it? interested. thanks.

Im very interested in the board. please email me at ewhittel@gmail.com just curious, why are you selling?

I think you're body position might be off. you may be in the "back seat", or letting the board ride you! (kidding) you're shoulders need to be more perpendicular to the board (of course it changes as you ride). In freestyle riding, one shoulder is set back and you kind of look over you're shoulder. I think alpine riding body position is more like a skiier. so when carving, the shoulders should follow where you're looking. heelside (for a goofy), you initiate, start to look up hill, or to the other side of the trail (of course more things are happening). the shoulders should twist as well, following you're head. the arms should be down near you're sides, elbows bent, kind of a "ready" position. hope that helps, thats my :barf:for you!

don't worry. if you install step in's then t nut the heel. I've had no problems w the front. just check you're hardware, often.

i like him! I think he is bursting with very valuable information. who could say it better than that. and his rendering of a plate binding... i would like to ride with him:freak3:

go to vermont!! stratton, equipe sport (on the mountain). there is a good boot fitter there. they also ride alpine, so they know what the deal is

I've been thinking I want to ride at blazingly fast speeds, in the trees. can someone set me up with one of those "alpine snowboards"

sounds to me that the boards core is compromised. I hate to say it but I think it's done. you should beg the manufacturer for a replacement or money off the price

the missing plastic piece should not affect the binding. the metal is what is doing all the work. I think the bolt that may be stripped is probably pretty standard hardware. you should be able to replace at a local store. You need to get intec or fintec (here on bomber) heels for you're boots, if you want to use the bindings. I'm not sure about the strength of the binding, but the other post is probably right. they do have a good bit of plastic. use em', but start looking for a trench digger, or catek binding if you want something strong and lasts (of course there are others). that liner needs to be re cooked if it is a moldable liner.