powell1.8

I trimmed some of the fat and cropped a bunch. I think it will be easier to view. There are some nice sequences. I don't think my auto focus could keep up at times, but it's more likely IO error. I goofed the link, it will be up shortly Here's the link. http://picasaweb.google.com/Gpowell1.8/MES2?authkey=29O8Vhx3Egs&feat=email

Thanks. When I get a chance I'm going to go through and pull the best ones and edit them a bit or at least crop them. I'll repost the top picks to make them easier to get through.

Definately a good time. I did get blasted from behind by a skier towards the end. I didn't get hurt, but I might be a little sore in the morning. I felt kind of bad for the lady. She seemed shell shocked, but that's what happens when you ski into steel. It's kind of like skiing into a T-800 terminator. Not a smart choice. Here is a link to the pics I took. The camera is still new to me so I was playing around with settings quite a bit. There are some good pics and some not so good pics, but I"m pretty happy considering the light conditions. Enjoy. http://picasaweb.google.com/Gpowell1.8/MES?authkey=eAjVZ2lXYX4&feat=email If you get a (stack overflow at line 0) error measage just hit ok until it goes away. I think it is because there are a lot of pics.

I'd contact Dan Yoja at upz boots. I'm sure he would be able to help you out with parts if you can't get them from where you purchased them.

We are way off topic kinda, but this is good stuff. I hear you on the resonance wave passing through the ski/snowboard, but the the problem I have with this analogy is that the longer the object the more pron it will be to resonate. I'm not sure I follow you on the wheel base analogy, but a flag pole in the wind is the best example I can think of. Given two equal poles of different lengths the longer of the two will resonate more easily. Everyone has seen this. A flag pole whipping around in the wind, seemingly out of control. The way to reduce this resonance is through damping, not increased length. The wave will pass completely throught the ski/snowboard regardless of length, how it will do this will depend on the damping of the ski/snowboard. Mr Robot, I hope you are not taking this like I'm trying to prove you wrong, this is just a fun topic. A lot can be learned by sharing ideas.

How dare you question my psuedoscientific blather.:D When it comes down to hundreths or thousandths of a second I can see where 2mm total of edge material might possibly be limiting , but I'm thinking one could also deduce from this that the reduction of weight was critical too. I always thought the increased length of a ski or snowboard for speed was to distribute the riders weight over a greater area, which would also therortically lead to riding with the base as flat as possible to distibute the riders weight even further. I don't think it was to put more material in contact with the snow. Thinking back 18 years or so when I raced skiis I do recall working hard to get my skiis as flat as possible in the straits and what not. That being said I still have to say that in practice I can still run faster moving from edge to edge on my snowboard. I more or less get on edge, and I'm talking ever so slightly, just long enough to break the suction effect, but not long enough or heavy enough to actually turn the board. As I roll to the other edge I go slow enough that there is a period of time when the full base is in contact with the snow. I only keep rolling if I feel the base begins to grab or for stability. Then I'm back on edge and pushing energy back into the board to kind of spring through the next cycle of back and forth on my edges. Most of the time looking back at my tracks I don't think I could even tell that I'm doing this, unless the snow is really firm, but not icy. I know it works for me. I know that if I ride this way I may make it to the next knoll that I otherwise wouldn't. It's just my experience over the years. The other factor in this for me is fatigue. I find it much easier to ride this way than trying run as flat as possible. I couldn't say exactly why, but it just isn't as tiring for me. Is the friction of the base and snow what causes the thin layer of water or is it the pressure created by the board and rider on the snow that causes the snow to melt? I'm certainly not trying to prove anyone wrong here, I'm just waiting for the family to hurry up and get ready so I can go ride. :D This is just fun for me. It's just something to make me think.

This is just for fun, because I really could care less and I'm bored. It will make me exercise this brain of mine. I will give you that the coefficient of friction for UMHW may be less than the metal edge material, but lets take into account the amount of the meterials in question. I'm going to be generous and say a single edge is 2.5mm wide. This amount of material is so minimal it isn't worth including in the equation. However, my base I'm going to say is apoximately 200mm wide on the average. Slightly on edge I'm going to say aproximately 50mm of base material is in contact with the snow. Running flat I would have four time the material in contact with the snow, that four times the friction. It doesn't matter how low the coefficient of friction is, it's still four time more. Friction is the enemy when it comes to speed. Everyone who has ridden in wet/soft conditions knows that it can be very slow. In my experience the best way to beat this is to get slightly on edge and break the suction the base has with the snow. This is the reason for all the fancy base grinds. To get the water away from the center of the base and break the suction. I know that I can ride faster slightly, and I mean slightly, on edge than flat. It doesn't just feel that way. If I pump into the edges I can go even faster. At times I can even increase my speed. Like I said this was just for fun and I am bored. I may be wrong, but it sounds good to me. As far as bombing down the fall line with zero sidecut and a convex board goes, I'll pass. I think this is called sledding.:D

.5-1* of base bevel helps a board perform better running flat. I never gave this much thought until I had my edges redone to 1* on the base this season and it really is nice. Definately less catchy. I find staying very slightly on edge is much faster through the flats though.

I think you can get a screw removal kit at Menards on the cheap. If the screw isn't wicked tight the kit should work. Basically you drill the bunk screw out a bit and then use the remover, kind of looks like a reversed drill bit that tappers out, to SLOWLY turn the screw out. If it's wicked tight I wouldn't go for the cheap kit though. CAUTION: the kits that Sears sell where you do not drill out a portion of the screw do not work. I have only ever had luck with the kits that have a drill bit with a matched remover tool. They usually come in sets with three or four different sizes. If you want some help with it let me know, but I broke/lost my last kit or I'd let you use it.

Bobble, I do think waiting 5-6 minutes is too long to wait before getting your foot in and start molding. I think the longest I've waited was under a minute and that's including getting my foot in the liner and shell. I think the longest I waited for the mold process was maybe 10 minutes start to finish. The liners should be really soft and puffed up. When your foot goes in. yyzcanuk's web site has really good directions on molding the liners at home. Building a good toe box is very important. Let me know if you are going to try and I send you some of the tips I have come up with in my experiences with the molding process. I know you just got your boots, but these are the goods. http://www.intuitionliners.com/products2.htm Check out the Power Wrap. These made a night and day difference for me, but I know you just forked out a bunch of ging on the boots. Good luck!

If everyone starts riding hardboots I won't get that I'm special feeling I have when someone asks me "What is that thing" All kidding aside, thats really cool. What's the age spectrum of the G-team riders? It's really exciting to hear that younger riders are taking interest in hardbooting and following through with learning to ride with hardboots. Good work.

Nap time was most excellent! All is good once again.

I had this crazy early dentist appointment, that I had the foresite to make six months ago so I would be able to ride. I hate getting up early, but I strugle to get up and after the appointment I force myself to not just go back to bed. I debated with myself for half an hour, but riding won out. So I make it down to Buck only to find that every run either has gates or racers practicing on them. It sucks to be me. I have nothing against racers and hope the races are a good time, but it sucks to be me right now. An hour later and I'm back home. At least gas is cheapish right now.

I put the ring on the outside. If you remold the liner with the rings they end up molded into the liner, so no to molding with the rings. It may seem like a stupid fix, but it really works for me. I started with one ring about 5mm think and then added another 5mm . I also used a mediumish density foam so it does have some give to it.

I should be out bright and squirrely tomorrow. I want a taste of perfection. I just hope it's not wicked cold.

Dave, you're just being modest. I have never seen a more perfectly executed healside to stalled and face planted front flip to noseslide. Believe it or not this was ridden out of. I am witness. I will testify. Keep up the good work.

I have had heal problems myself, but they have more or less gone away. I think this is a combo of better technique, better liners, and taping a foam donut to my liner around the injured area. The donut really helps to get the pressure off the pressure point or aggitated area. It doesn't take much and can make a huge difference. I think I got the foam from a boot fitter and just cut out a donut just a bit larger than the hurting area. Intuition liners helped in a huge way as well. They are much more dense, which I feel really helps to keep my feet where I want them. With my thermoflex liners I would pack out the pressure point in a day or two. I just don't like how squishy they are. I literally went fron hating my 700's to loving them when I switched liners. Sorry for the liner rant.

Date: 1/7/09 Temp: cold Visabilty: good, much better than expected Conditions: favorable Hardbooters: 2 (Trent and myself) Snow was really good today, not to hard and not to soft. It very carvable early on, but some push piles developed later in the day. Once the push piles began to firm up and the sun began to drop it was time to go. We played with my camera a bit, but we waited a bit to long and had the sun directly behind the slope. Trent was successfully practicing his big air technique. Overall, it was a chill day at Welch. The vibe was good.

That's a real bummer. I do plan on bringing my camera. Hopefully there will be better light than last year.

Oh, The NORM. I think the norm part deux is really where all the good practices of carving stem from. It sums up the basics very well. I think my biggest breakthrough was squaring my hips to the board and getting as low as my muscles could/can handle. It makes all the difference in the world as far getting the necessary edge preasure to really rail. That and reach downhill not uphill. I didn't need to read the norm though, I had BobD.

Now that they have all these new runs, have you heard if they will have that side open during the week? Seems silly to build all that just for the weekend.

I ride with the BTS both front and back. I have red upper springs and blue lower springs. To put it bluntly, I'm not sure I can even tell they're there anymore, if ever. The reds are really stiff. I get more flex out of the boot shell than the spring itself. I do get some rear movement with the blues, but I think I only get this when I realy need it. Like during heelside chatter. Now that I have less spongy liners, I'm thinking of putting in the blue upper springs in to see how much difference I can feel. My boots definately don't feel like they are in walk mode though. You also can't forget the bling factor. It's huge, especially when your pants creep up and ride on top of the springs. With only one side installed you are losing out on half the bling factor. To each their own, but would you where a cent pendant instead of a dallor pendant or a one finger ring instead of a three finger ring. Think about it.

Sorry Trent, that was my sorry attemp to put the kibosh on Welch talk. Your way is far more effective.:D I'm down with the good vibe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74JyDmAu9Zw

Interestingly, the lines of comunication at Welch seem to be improving. I talked with them on Monday or Tuesday and believe it or not even though we have taken a step backwards with a complaint, it seemed like we have made some headway. I explained how some of us have been feeling and how we have not been treated the best while there. I felt like I was being heard. I was told that one complainer and/or ski patrol should not wreck it for many. If we can all stay on our best behavior, if you venture down that way, it will only speak to our commitment to the sport. I was asked if we have had any issues at other ski areas and when I replied no, just the opposite, I think it hit home. I definately don't think we're completely out of the woods, but I think they are making an effort on our behalf. Only time will tell.

IMHO save some cash and go for the Head boots. The pair of Line boots I had, the pair I got from you, was great. They were very similar to the new Head boots. I regret getting rid of them. If I could do it over again, I would go for the head boots. They fit well, they cost less, I think they're lighter, and the moldable liners in the Deeluxe blow. If yo do go for the Deeluxe, I'd see if you can get the better liners. Maybe if you order them from yyzcanuck they come with the better liners. The Deeluxe website says they do come with them, but the ones from Bomber don't come with them.