Bullwings
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Posts posted by Bullwings
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My feet are size 12 in softies, and i have MP 28.5 hardboots, so I'm hoping I shouldn't have a problem.
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check this out for more on Gilmour Bias...
http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=19745&page=2
it's essentially off setting your bindings so that they're set up asymetrically. The higher your stance angles, the more effective the bias.
my FR2s just came in today, so I'll be setting them up on my Tanker today and tomorrow. I'll probably test it out on Friday.
Thanks again JG, I'm thinking you just might have saved my leg.
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you said you're selling your 3800 because it's too wide for your feet, right?
what's the waist width on the 3800? I think you said the board was designed for feet size 10.5 to 13.
Is a waist width of 25.5cm too wide for size 12 boots with catek fr2s? or would "Gilmour bias" be useful?
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Well, my 07/08 Tanker 182 came in and I took it for a ride on some softies.
Awesomeness
:1luvu:I love this board. I had so much fun that I didn't even bother taking the time to dial in my bindings (stupid decision, but they're going to be upgraded soon). This board really rails. It's super light weight, which I wasn't expecting from a board that length. I think my Donek FCI 171 is heavier. The board is really damp too, which was really nice for my leg.
My Catek FR2s should be in this week, I can only imagine things will get better. I'll put the time into dialing everything in too. I can't wait to try this thing out in some powder and to give it a spin with my TD2s (next season for that one).
The only slight complaint that I have is that it is a bit slower changing from edge to edge, but that's to be expected with the wider waist width (25.5 cm).
I could say more, but there's no need to since everyone that's ridden or owns one has said it already. It won't disappoint. I just have to test it out on plates, and later on, some powder - I have some pretty high expectations now, and I don't think i'll be let down.
Shred, have you tested yours out yet??
And one last thing - RJ at exoticboards was really cool to deal with. Excellent customer service.
:biggthump -
Then I discovered carving. Now I don't give a sh!t about those silly light sabers.
Light saber can put a deeper trench in the snow...
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Wow, thanks for all that info. My Cateks are coming in Tuesday, so I'll have more options as far as really trying to get it dialed in.
As for me, I've put my hardboots up for this season. I almost put up snowboarding for the season too due to my injury.
Just out of curiosity, what angles do you run on your softies?
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This seems to be the softy thread to post in for now, so I have a question.
Today was my first time back boarding since breaking my leg (usual tib/fib), and I was on a Tanker 182 with burton cartels and some riser plates. It was awesome, and all I can say is that i've never carved like that on a soft setup.
So, my question, what can I do about the pain my high back on my front foot is causing me? I found that after 4 hours of riding, pressuring my high back was starting to hurt my front leg, but if I didn't pressure it enough, then my edges wouldn't hook in, and I couldn't carve. Then again, the pain might be because that's the leg I broke, but it might also be something that I'm doing in general - I'm thinking and hoping it has less to do with my leg and more to do with my technique. The pain is mostly at the back of my calf. Oh, btw, I'm riding angles of 33F/27R.
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I take out the original footbed and put my orthodic in place.
The other thing to take into consideration with orthodics is that your foot might actually shrink, especially if you're flat footed. I lose half a mondo size point when using my orthodics since surefoot molded them to give me a little bit of an arch.
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I've ridden both ATV (161) and 4wd (164).
Both are great boards, but I liked the 4wd more - but I also prefer groomed runs and tend to leave around 1:30pm or so when my local hill gets chopped up.
For what it sounds like you want to do, I'd recommended the ATV, but I'd also recommend getting it stiffened up a bit. Even for my 145 lbs. I found the ATV to be a little bit soft for plates once my skills started improving.
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My 182 should be on the way.
I have another question (I know, they never end). How's the tune on these boards from the factory? Do I need to bevel and tune my edges before the first ride out? I thought I remember someone complaining about the factory tune (or lack of), but I'm not sure.
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There's one thing I'm curious about with the tankers: how's the nose on groomers? I'm pretty sure it's great for powder, but is it easy to stuff/fold on the groomers when you're carving?
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not quite a lucky charm, but something that I realized I always do: make sure i have an empty bladder and bowels...
that way if something happens, I don't $hit and piss myself.
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Well, I just recently changed my mind, and I guess I'll be boarding this season after all (as soon as my Catek FR2s come in)...
So, I guess I'll be taking up my lucky titanium rod and my two lucky titanium screws... hehe
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Well, foot size makes a much bigger difference when you're using hardboots, because you want to set your angles so that you have little to no overhang. When you boot out for the first time, it's quite a scary feeling.
Smaller feet = lower more relaxed angles
larger feet = higher angles
as a beginner you can ride with some overhang since you won't be putting the board up on edge as much, and you can adjust your angles as you get better.
As for a first carving board, an all mountain board is usually recommended, and since you want to be able to ride it in sub-optimal conditions (crud, chop, crowds, ungroomed, etc.) it would probably be better if you did get an all mountain carver. The other thing is that the transition from soft to hard boots is generally easier on all mountain boards.
I've ridden two of the boards you've listed
Donek FCI 171 - awesome carving board, rails like nothing else i've ridden, and does pretty well on early morning west coast hard pack. hooks in and almost doesn't want to let you go - it's pretty tough to make the tail skid when you need to. 18cm waist and stiffness made it pretty unfriendly later in the day when things got chopped up. Not a board i would ride anywhere except for groomers - and not in crowds either (well not with my skills at least).
Prior 4wd (164) - my favorite board to date. unfortunately i broke it after 3 days... awesome edge hold. friendly for making it carve tighter radii - even for noobs. very managable in crowds. good in chop and crud later in the day. supposed to be decent in light to medium powder from what I hear - mine didn't last long enough for me to find out. this is a nice hardboot all mountain board
Other all mountain recommendations
Prior ATV (161) - good transition board. you can use both soft and hardboots with this one (i did with size 12 softies and MP28.5 hardboots). a little bit soft for my liking once i got better on hardboots. good edge hold, but the other two above rail better imo. still, it was friendly to me as a beginner, and I'm glad it was my first carving board.
Other all mountain boards to consider that the BOL community likes (i have yet to try them)
Coiler all-mountain - probably the favorite out of all the boards I've mentioned
Dupraz D1
Donek Axxess
Rad-Air Tanker - more of a softboot board but great with plates too (i'll find out soon, i just ordered one)
Length of the board is relative to weight and ease of decambering the board (making it flex so you can carve tighter radius turns). This will vary from board to board.
As far as money - I'd avoid all the Canadians (Prior and Coiler) since everything got more expensive with our craptacular economy.
I'd also keep my eyes open in the classifieds. I've seen some 4wds and Axxess pop up here and there.
I'd also just consider picking up something cheap so you can just get a feel for it.
Well, that was long. Good luck shopping.
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Well, this seems to be the tanker thread for now, so i'll just ask my question here.
How does the 05/06 compare to the 07/08? exoticboards has both, but the 05/06 only has the 172 and i'm looking for something with 10m scr. will it really matter? is $200 worth it for the newer model, or is the 05/06 still pretty good. I'm pretty light (145lbs.) so i don't think I could see myself on anything bigger than a 182.
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I have a Donek FCI 171 with about 2 days on it (i believe it's an '06 - got it in October of '06) and I'd like to trade it for a Tanker 182 (I'd be willing to pay a slight difference depending on condition and model year). Only used it twice last year (once really, since the snow was to deep the second time I took it out).
I'll post up some pictures when I have the chance.
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I have three questions...
1) Did you try it out on plates and HBs? If so, how was it?
2) What's your weight and height?
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Just had that in April, and it compartmentalized, fun stuff...
but, to add to Zoltan's advice
Before you leave the hospital (if you haven't already), ask for a prescription of Lovenox (you won't need any Aleve or aspirin - same thing). It's to counteract the possibility of getting DVT (Deep vein thrombosis), which could lead to a pulmonary embolism, or other complications. You'll probably want to have it for two weeks or so since you'll be immobile for a while, which isn't good. Your orthopaedic doctor probably won't prescribe it to you and will probably just try to load you up on aspirin instead, which is a poor substitute. Ortho docs don't know anything about follow up primary care... The other doctors like to call them highly specialized and skilled carpenters. They're good at what they do, but don't ask for anything beyond that.
And about bone stimulator units, it also depends on the region of your fracture, if it's a spiral fracture and goes up and down your tibia, it's not quite as helpful since it can only focus on a small region.
Oh, and one last one, if you're still on morphine, one of the side effects is that it makes it REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to urinate. So, unless you want things going up that little tiny hole, I'd lay off of that little button and try to get some oxycodon and/or vicodin instead.
Well, good luck and speedy recovery to you.
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I'm sure he's go tsome sort of complications, but lucky for him he didn't lose the leg. That's definitely a possibility. It's one of those things that you'd rather not think about, but is not beyond the realm of possible occurences.
For me, the rod is definitely coming out before I do anything. I already have permanent muscle and nerve damage right now, I'll pass on possibly making it worse.
Doctor also told me about some other girl that managed to break the rod in her leg after falling off of a horse (or horse fell on her, dunno exactly what). He said that that was much better since the rod broke, and it was much easier extracting the rod from her. So, if that's the case, just make sure you're always charging hard at 120%, so if anything does happen, you break the rod instead of just bending it.
BTW, i'm not trying to scare anyone, i'm just wondering what other people are doing. I'm just a chicken s--t now. The fact that so many of you are boarding with hardware, and not a single person has posted anything about damaging hardware -- those are some pretty good statistics/odds as far as i'm concerned.
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It's fun most of the time, especially when I get to ride with other carvers. Riding with Aaron has been great for my learning experience.
Some of my friends kind of annoy me when I ride with them though, mainly softbooters, not because they're softbooters... But because they INSIST on riding through the park, and just go THROUGH it and avoid all of the jumps, rails, and other terrain features... So, why the F*$% are they riding through the park to begin with? :rolleyes:
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Yeah, over time it's possible to develop allergies to the metals in your body due to prolonged exposure. People develop allergies to jewelry all the time (nickel), why not to titanium and/or stainless steel?
A friend of mine had a spinal fusion done. After about 5 years, he started developing an allergic reaction, and had to have the hardware removed. Once it was out, no more problems.
I'm by no means an expert on this stuff, but I know it's one of the other complications with installed hardware. There's a possibility it's just a recurring infection, but even if it is, isn't that enough reason to have the hardware removed? Assuming you have medical insurance, it shouldn't be a problem. Short term suffering/hardship for long term ease and enjoyment. Or, you can keep it in for short term discomfort for a life time...
But, then again, everyone's evaluation of the situation is different, like mine differs from everyone else's here. I'm skipping the boarding for one season, but definitely having my hardware removed next year.
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^^^ I don't think that's an infection dave. Sounds more like an allergy... You should have it removed, you're probably still pretty young where it would be in your better interest, especially since you're still boarding.
My doctors scared me enough that i've wussed out and i'm being a pansy this season. That, and my leg has started bothering me more with the slightly cooler (see SoCal) "winter" weather. I'm not saying plates are any less serious, but they're on the outside of the bone, if they get damaged, they're a bit easier to remove.
Rods that are encased and surrounded by your bone are a little bit more difficult to deal with. If they get bent, they don't come out the same way that they went in. Doctor told me about a guy who managed bend the rod in his tibia (big bone in lower leg - same one i have) in a motorcycle accident... They had to get a diamond edge saw to cut his leg in half so they could extract it from the area where it bent. I almost lost the leg the first time from compartment syndrome and have a little bit of permanent muscle damage (very minor). I think i can wait till the next season. I'm scheduled to have my rod removed next June (i'm doing it ASAP even though it can arguably stay in like it seems everyone else here chooses). I get to go on disability again and make use of all those taxes they take out of our paychecks
well, that's pretty cool, you guys are all pretty hardcore, which was something i already gathered with those of you putting 40+ days on the snow each year.
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As in surgical hardware you've had installed due to an injury (or because you're masochistic and want to set off metal detectors)? Or Have boarded in the past with hardware (now removed)? What did your doctor say as far as the risks involved? Have any of you ever managed to damage your installed hardware, and if so, what happened? Also, does your hardware affect your performance in anyway? Is your hardware permanent or temporary?
I'm just currious what other people are doing and willing to risk or not risk. Happy trails and be safe.
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yeah, he's a cool guy. rode with him twice last season. i think he seems content lurking the boards.
:1luvu:
:biggthump
Soft Boot Carving
in Carving Central
Posted
I could say the same in the opposite. Picked up the softboots this season after riding only plates all of last season, and my softboot riding has improved dramatically.
Last year, I was ready to dump my softboot gear. It's a good thing I broke my leg and decided to ride softies this season, I've been having so much fun. It's also a lot more friendly in powder, chop, and crud. This might be a mis-informed and narrow minded statement, but it seems that hardboots are only good for groomers and hard packed conditions. Once conditions get all tracked out, or it's a pow pow day, the softies shine.
As for carving, it's like the EVO VIII vs. the Ferrari F1 analogy. Sure the F1 eats up the turns on asphalt, but would you take it on a dirt/gravel road? Hardboots = mad carver, low versatility. Softboots = capable carver, high versatility. That being said, people here use hardboots for everything and swear by it, which is cool. You can use a regular screw driver for a philips head screw, but it would definitely be better if you had a philips screw driver... You can also use a spoon to cut a steak if you really wanted too...