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Bullwings

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Posts posted by Bullwings

  1. really don't know what your purpose is in being here, but this doesn't add to the quality of the forums at all.

    your existance here is doomed...

    completely worthless thread.

    yeah, we get that you're soft. ok, message sent. done, move on, we get the point. yeah, you'll never try hardboots, ok, great. any other useless info you wish to share with us?

    If you've come here as a missionary on a conversion mission, you're wasting your time... WE ARE the CONVERTS - most of us have had our fair share of softy setups. whereas you have never even tried hardboots.

    damn, i feel like such an idiot sinking to your level and actually posting a response to this...

    And as far as wrecking the snow, I blame it on all the softboot riders that spread the butter all over the place and expose the ice, leaving all the snow on in mounds and off to the side of the runs...

  2. TD2 bails. After hearing about that one guy, i was scared to try step-ins. And, honestly, i'm happy with with the way everything feels on my current bail setup. Plus, at 140 pounds, i doubt i need a stiffer interface. hell, i probably don't even need TD2s.

    For my softies - FR2, straps all the way. I had switch bindings before, and liked them, but the boots i had were crap. Now i just can't find any good switch compatible boots. That, and nothing can compete with the adjustability options of the FR2s - cant/lift is a must for me now, ever since riding hardboots.

  3. Our sport is dieing because our elite gear has priced itself out of the market. If we don't find a way to build a bridge between ourselves and cheap jibber gear we will become extinct when the last guy my age dies.

    I'm 25... I got into hardbooting at 23. I don't think it's quite dying. There's a few under 30 year old posters here.

    As for price, uhhh, have you looked at the price of ski gear? I've seen a pair of ski boots run from $600 to $900... That's a decent alpine setup right there.

    <O:p

    A full set of ski gear, poles, bindings, boots, and skis can run over $2000 easily. Do you hear skiiers complaining?

    Hell, even if i were to get a custom titanal board, some brand new UPZs, Deeluxe, or Head boots, and some Cateks or TD2s, i'd probably only make it to around $1800, and that's top of the line.<O:p></O:p>

    <O:p></O:p>

    For hardbooting gear, there's bargains to be had. You can get a brand new set of boots for $450 + some snowpros or burton plates for $150, and just throw that on your existing board, or find a used factory prime for $100. That's $700.

    A softboot setup can easily run over that. Brand new Malamutes $300, Cateks, or a decent set of softboot bindings = $200 or more, and decent freeride/freestyle board = $400+ ($900 for a burton vapor). That's $900 total for a decent softy setup... granted, you can get a cheapo setup for around $400, but you could do the same for a hardboot setup, if you got rid of the brand new boots part.

    As far as price is concerned, it's a choice... all excuses.

  4. Main point i was making is that softboots are not hardboots, and hardboots are not softboots.

    I have both setups, and they're both setup to carve - tried the jibber thing - i suck and have no skills.

    Last season when i got my FR2s, i was so sure i was going to put a booster strap on for the third strap, but before i got to modding it, i went out and rode it with just the two straps. the third strap never happend after that. i was so happy with how the fr2s felt as is.

    Haven't been back on HBs since breaking my tib-fib and the addition of new hardware. I'll probably try the HBs out again for a little bit this season.

    Anyway, I admit my ignorance since i've never tried the third strap - so I wouldn't know. I'll definitely give it a shot this season - I'm gonna be on SBs for a while, at least until the hardware comes out. I don't think I can commit to HBs as much as I'd like to with that stuff in there. I might as well do what i can to make my softy setup hardboot like.

    Oh, and I definitely agree with you (Dr. D) about soft conditions. I'm never riding my HBs in more than 4inches of powder. Also, in slush last season, I was so happy to be on softies - i could feel when i was powering the nose too much and back off. In HBs, i'd probably have flown over the front before I got the chance.

    Like Jack said though, night/day difference. I'll have to see what the third strap can do though, since i haven't given it a shot.

  5. nothing and I mean nothing can

    provide the same support as a highback binding that locks down with the

    3rd strap...

    hardboots maybe?? oh wait, nevermind. that's TOO MUCH support, not the same thing.

    nothing and I mean nothing can provide the same kind of slop, play, and flex that raichelle SB123s in walk mode, with burton rat traps, and the top buckle undone does...

    oh, wait, nevermind, there's softboots.

  6. fair enough. the only run that i like on the west side, is Conquest. that's pretty much it. all the other runs require you to waste your ride up by first passing through jib territory. it also requires you to stand in the same lines with the posers.

    i really don't understand it. does it some how make them feel better to be dicks to people with different gear (skiers included...)?

    the east side is ok. still, there's too many straight liners on the non-jibber runs. And one more thing, the trail transitions... those are so damn scary, especially when they put the landings of the 10-15 footer jumps right at the trail transitions... awesomeness!!! :biggthump

    anyway, i did my fair share of learning to carve at mt. high, and as you say, it was fine for a while. then, i actually started to improve and started caring more about the mountain and the runs. you'll get there. i'm sure if you come up to snow summit a few times toward the middle of the season, you'll be converted.

  7. the burton cartels can lock the high back down. you just better make sure to unlock it each time you unstrap and get on the lift, or you might end up with a broken binding.

    As far as the high back is concerned, ever since i started riding Catek FR2s, i've found them so responsive that i have no complaints and feel no need to even try to further modify the binding.

    They're still not hardboots, but they're the next best thing too it. And my boots aren't even that stiff, they're '05 Vans Fargos with the BOA system. For riding a softy setup, I think the bindings make more of a difference than the boots - once you find a boot that fits well and doesn't hurt that is - boot stiffness all seems relative since they're still soft no matter what...

    Edit: For reference, i'm riding my cateks at 48f-44r (or something close to it)

  8. Ah Mt. High... how I dispise that place with a passion. Never going back again - i don't care if it's closer.

    Lots of douche bag poser teens that are super rude and will dmg your gear. Snow blowing capacity is no where near on par with Big Bear. They might have all the best equipment in the world, but they don't have the water supply. Big Bear has the lake, and when that snow melts, it just goes back into the lake - endless water supply.

    Anyway, season should be starting up at the end of 6 weeks i'm thinking. The temperatures have started to drop, and my leg is starting to feel it. Season has definitely changed - finally. I listen to the leg - it knows whats up.

  9. While you're healing, it'll seem like forever, but once it's healed up so you can do what you enjoy it'll be faster than you expected.

    I didn't think I'd make it back to the slopes the next season when I did the whole tib-fib with compartment syndrome last year, but I managed to make it back to the slopes for this past season. Look at it this way, once you're back on the slopes, there'll definitely be a good base layer come Feb/March.

    Heal up and try to stay positive throughout the healing process, it can be frustrating.

  10. You may want to play around with the de-wedging. I believe that Richie usually sets up the Axes with 3 soft Khiro wedges, trying to get the kingpin on the RTS close to verticle.

    I'm surprised you use a yellow barrel. I've got 40+ lbs on you, and I rarely use that hard of bushings on my slalom boards, so you may want to experiment with different bushings also. I don't own an LDP, so It's possbile that harder bushings work well there..

    I'm not completely sure what i'm aiming for with the rear of a slalom setup, so I don't quite know what i'm supposed to be doing as far as setting it up. Guess i'll try a little bit more de-wedging and a blue or red barrel bushing.

    Also, do i want the rear truck to move around a little bit more or hardly at all?

    I've been watching some hybrid slalom vids and it looks like a lot of cross-under technique.

    And, on another note, i got kicked out of the parking garage - stupid ass security. I was using my LDP board making some laps, and going down carving (6 floors- fun :1luvu:). The idiot almost killed me by completely cutting me off and getting right in front of me. F%&$ing douche bag, it's not a bike, i don't have instantaneous brakes... They don't even have signs posted saying "No skating, etc. etc."

  11. Interesting. How do you have the RTS set up? (Wedging / bushings). On that note, how is your Bennett set up too?

    Are you unhappy with the RTS for GS style carving, or just pumping?

    Not too sure on what my de-wedging is at since it's mounted on the kick tail (see axe) - but it's two soft angled wedge risers (khiros) and a regular flat riser 1/4". Bushings on the RTS are a Yellow Khiro barrel and the standard black cone from tracker (i'm 140 lbs) - same setup i have on my pulse 40.

    It was ok for pumping on my pulse 40, but i had a seismic sitting around and decided to give it a try with some softer springs. So, i swapped it all out, and the seismic just felt better for me. No big deal though, i'll just work with the RTS for now, i've been watching some slalom pumping videos and figuring out what the difference in my motion is and foot placement. Kind of wish the axe was a little bit wider - I wear a size 11.5 to 12 shoe in vans.

    My LDP isn't so bad, i can pump for about 6-8 miles, haven't tried to do anything longer, i need to find a bike trail for that.

    As far as my slalom pumping, it's mostly on flat terrain, depending on where i'm staying - like right now it'll probably be in a parking garage. Last night it was on a very mild hill - see 1-2% or so.

  12. Well, i finally got to try out my axe and... I suck. haha

    I'm still figuring out how to pump the thing. I guess i've been spoiled by longboards. I can pump my pulse 40, my friend's supercharger, and my vanguard (finally), but the pump on the axe is kind of eluding me.

    I'm trying to get used to how squirelly the Bennett 4.3 feels and a shorter board with a shorter wheel base. there were a few times i could really feel the acceleration from my pumps and as soon as i tried to think about what i was doing, i lost it and it disappeared.

    I'm not quite used to pumping with my rear foot over the back trucks. Normally when i pump, my rear foot is more toward the middle of the board. My rear foot usually pumps heel-toe. I need to get used to the forward facing stance i'm using with the axe. I also put a toe stopper in (bushing and washer only) because I stepped off of the front of the board and almost killed myself (i'm used to using one on my pulse).

    Time to go watch some slalom pumping videos. :lurk:

    Edit: on a side note, I think I just might have to replace that RTS with a 125 randal or a stable 130 seismic. I switched out the RTS on my pulse with a stable 155mm seismic and it feels so much better - had to get soom lighter springs though (i'm a light scrawny guy).

  13. oh, i'm not going off of the norm, statistics, and what's most common. This is particularly in reference to skatha's specific case.

    hence, her ankle, not anyone elses.

    I believe you though, knees are more complicated and tend to have more severe consequences.

  14. You care too much about what other people think - that includes us here posting on the bomber forum (and I'm sure you haven't even met a single one of us in person).

    I'm not going to say that I don't care at all what other people think, because I still do to some extent - I don't like to stand out and be noticed. However, to me it seems like you're this character trying to paint this particular image of yourself for everyone to see. Just let it go and do your own thing and be yourself instead of this image you have of yourself - i feel like i'm talking to some adolescent kid with identity problems...

  15. Wow, a thread where i've ridden both boards and can actually give a comparison...

    Like everyone else has mention, if you're looking for a softboot board, then either one will be awesome.

    I had a 182 tanker (now broken) and still have a 161 atv. The tanker is way better in powder than the atv (no trees that is). This is not to say that the atv sucks in powder, it's just not as good and doesn't feel quite as great.

    The tanker, is a pretty damn good carver, but not as good as the atv on harder/icier conditions. Edge transitions and as a board overall, the atv feels a bit more nimble and agile. This is probably due to the 20mm in waist width difference ('07-'08 tanker) and and 21cm length difference.

    The tanker is more damp than the atv, and weighed practically the same ('07-'08 model) as the atv ('05-'06 model - don't think there have been any significant changes other than graphics available). Tanker is a super light board, not just for its size, but just in general (I think the older models are a little bit heavier, but still light).

    ATV is also awesome with hardboots. It was my transition board for going from soft to hard - great to learn on, and to use as an all-mountain hardboot carver (a little soft in the nose with HBs though, so be careful). I have yet to try the tanker with HBs - although i did pick up a 192 to replace my broken one, and it's only 7mm wider than the atv (i'm looking forward to it).

    Side cut radius on the two lengths you're looking at are comparable, so that shouldn't be much of an issue. For me, the tanker definitely held the larger radius carves at speed a little bit better, but that's 161 atv vs. 182 tanker (9m vs 11.2m scrs). Both were able to make nice tight carves even with my lack of skills.

    Skidding both boards when needed was not a problem at all, but I felt the tanker was easier to re-hook back up into a rail following a skid. Both very friendly in this aspect though.

    Kind of long winded there, but agree with what everyone else says.

    ATV = better carver dedicated board that is more than capable and enjoyable all around the mountain, even in powder up to 10-12" (haven't taken it in anything deeper).

    Tanker = better all around all-mountain board that excels in powder. very capable carver, except on icy crap, and not quite as nimble/agile as the atv.

    Whatever board you get though, i doubt you'll be disappointed. Haven't ridden your current board, so I can't help you with any direct comparisons there.

  16. powder scares me. you can't see what's under it and then your leg goes "snap, crackle, pop."

    Of the boards i've had, Tanker 182 was awesome in the powder, although i have yet to try a swallowtail. I'd love to give a 185 undertaker a spin in powder. I've been eyeing that board for about 3 years now (was 2005 the last year Rossi made them?). I just can't justify a pow specific board since we rarely get pow days here - and rarely anything deeper than 6 inches. I only get good powder on big trips to bigger, higher altitude mountains that receive more precipiation through the winter.

    With that said, i always just compromise with good all-mountain boards that do well in powder - see atv and tanker.

  17. Wow, that was super quick service from Sk8kings. My board already came in. I don't have any trucks for it yet though. Didn't think they'd deliver it within 2 days. Then again, I am only 30 miles away from Fountain Valley, CA.

    Wish they had a shop that i could walk into.

  18. Thanks for the advice Gecko.

    I just ordered the Axe 2.5 last night. I picked the 21" WB for HS/GS.

    I'm gonna be setting it up with Bennett 4.3s in the front and RTS-129 in the rear (was thinking about a Skandal, but I doubt that's neccessary since i'm not competing or anything). Got 30 cones too - i'm sure that'll be more than enough to have fun with.

    Still trying to decide between Hot Spots or my 73mm speed vents. I guess i can fiddle around see what "feels" better. I can pump, but not slalom style pumping with the whole throwing your body and arms across the board side to side with more of a forward facing stance. I'm guessing smaller wheels will probably be easier to learn on.

    Edit: Last question, i swear... haha. Do you think a Randal 125 with 35 base plate would work better for a rear truck than the RTS-129?

  19. Cool, thanks for the info. And, i'm glad you picked one of the ones I was eyeing. I was pretty much looking at the 2.5 and 3.

    Also, what's the turn around time from Sk8kings? Are they made to order or do they have a few sitting around? I'd like to get one sooner rather than later.

    I have a commuter board, so this will be mainly to run cones, and double for shorter distance commuting since it'll be easier to carry around than my pulse 40, which is pretty long and heavy.

  20. axe 1, 2, 2.5, or 3? What do you guys recommend? I'm not gonna be competing or anything (don't really have friends that do this type of stuff and don't know of any venues in the area), and would probably double using this for some campus commuting. I'll also be running cones casually on my own or with a friend.

    I figured i'd set it up with a Bennett 4.3 and an RTS or seismics for the rear.

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