abakker

bump for price drop

coiler Pure Race from 1998 engineered for someone 190 lbs and up. this board is wicked stiff, and fast. from bruce: 184 long with 166 effective edge 18.3 at the waist 14.2 m sidecut 4mm taper this board was originally built for todd mehling, and i got it through PSR last year. i don't know how many days it has on it, but i have ridden it maybe 10. the core apparently hasn't softened since it was made since i am 175 ish and i cannot flex the thing without serious speed and balls. the base and edges are in great shape with no dings or repairs. the top-sheet is pretty plain and has a few small dings. let me know if you are interested in more pictures. asking $250 + shipping anywhere.

orange heads size 27 ridden 15 days comes with gray tounges orange tounges soft and hard toe/heel blocks stock head liner size 27.5 intuition silver/gray liner molded once asking $200+shipping to anywhere pictures available on request.

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1 sidewinder gore-tex shell. 1 gray. $90+shipping 5 mid layer woven pullovers. 2 in green, 1 black, 1 gray, 1blue $40 each + shipping 2 mid layer lightweight fleece pullovers 1 orange, 1 navy $40 each +shipping 1 softshell hoodless, blue-grey $75+shipping 1 wool jacket charcoal gray, $75+shipping 1 long sleeved under layer $25+ shipping 1 short sleeved under layer $20+shipping the reason i am selling the gear is that it no longer fits me. the shell and the softshell are both used but well cared for though some wear is visible. all the pullovers are in perfect shape and though used were always treated well and only used for snowboarding, so they never got any wear as they were always protected. the wool jacket was worn less than 10 times and is like new. all the prices are significant markdowns from retail, so jump on this while you have the chance. there are shipping discounts for buying more than one item at a time. and all items ship same or next day from payment. NOTE: i will ship anywhere as long as we work out payment in advance.

these boots are used but not too hard. the soles are in good condition and all the straps are in working order as well as the 5 pos forward lean. these boots have the yellow racing tongues in them the plastic in general shows minimal wear. the sole length is 269 mm i am asking $70 plus shipping to anywhere.

can you be more specific? http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/Identifying_boots.cfm

do a search through the forums for rad air tanker. i think you may find this is a good board for what you are looking for.

made it probably 270 on my tanker a few days ago. i can't really imagine making it all the way around and still standing up, but my technique isn't the greatest. maybe a different board would make it better...

half loaf of bread made into PBJ, put back into the bread bag, and then taken and stashed in a tree well on the first run, along with a thermos of tea. pick it up at lunch, eat a few, have a drink. then again at 3:00, then you are good for the drive home at 4:30. if it is below 10 degrees, stash the sandwiches in a lunch box that is insulated, with the thermos, and all is well.

gasoline or acetone, steel wool, maybe some WD-40. could be good to do this warm, but don't dip a hot iron in any of those chemicals

having ridden the reto 164, i can recommend one wholeheartedly as a fast board. on the other hand, it has a 10.5 m sidecut, and rides like a longer board than it is. it requires a fair amount of input to be the most fun it can be and rides almost like an alpine board except for the width, which is wider than the madd bx i believe.

last season, while riding my coiler PR184 i went out to ride with friends and we decided rather spontaneously to find some last powder before the season ended. not a good idea on that board, which neither floats nor flexes. after a rather interesting section of glades and traverses, i drop into this small bowl full of knee deep powder. i turn once heelside and keep the nose up, then at full speed make the edge change, but without pressuring the nose i couldn't really make the transition and even when i attempted very mildly to do that, i stuffed the nose at significant speed. i rolled about 6 times fully extended. i couldn't breath because i had had the wind knocked out of me so hard, but my friends couldn't breath because they had collapse from laughter. one of my friends who saw the fall from behind me as he followed actually fell because he couldn't ski and laugh at the same time. i got so much s*** for riding that board that day. good times though.

i have a hard time believing that it can really be that expensive. how do companies like daleboot offer such unique boots in what i assume to be limited runs? it seems like there should be a cheaper way to do this. alternately, a member of the bomber forums could win the lottery and start a boot company...

gorilla tape should be fine. just make sure you get a good bond by making the liner dust free and clean. if the liner every gets wet, you don't want it leaking into your foot.

does anyone know what goes into making a boot mold? it seems to me that with the complaints we have about all the shells, and the knowledge that can be gleaned from our members as well as the internet at large, we could come up with a boot mold that fixed most of our complaints. i'd be in for a small investment in coming up with something better. as was pointed out earlier in this thread, our designs are kind of old. on another note, could we design a shell in cad/ some other design software and try to convince deeluxe to make it? i'd preorder a pair if the design was promising.

my only advice is to use a thick elastomer or a polycarbonate plate like you would use on a metal board if you are riding really hard. i broke my boards core last year, lengthwise where the binding ended. now i run a poly plate under my bindings.

Another vote for Eric Brammer (PSR). he taught my first ever group lesson back at stratton. i never truly appreciated just how good he was at his craft until i finally made the switch to hardboots, but he is a wealth on information of everything to do with snowboarding.

plexiglass=very very very bad idea. as we have seen here, it is brittle and not durable, nor flexible. if you use plexiglass, and ride hard, there is a good chance that it will break from the cold and flexing and loosen sufficiently for you to overstrain your inserts. the potential for bad results is much too high. polycarbonate on the other hand is what they make industrial safety glasses and goggles out of. it is easy to work as well as strong and temperature tolerant. these materials are NOT the same, please do not make that mistake if you are going to make your own risers.

i second the tanker 177 as an ideal board for what you are describing, and RJ over at exotic boards has excellent customer service.

OS2s all the way. never had a problem. i use the D3 rubber under all my bindings and i find the ride excellent. i also love tinkering and greasing and tightening moving parts, and they offer me the most adjustability. i also like the idea of metal more than plastic. if i had a choice, everything would be metal, even boots.

i think that the difference between elliptical and quadratic is in the places that the curvature tightens. an ellipse tightens toward the ends around to foci, while the center is relatively mellow. Ellipse a quadratic has its tightest point at its center, and expands from there, the tip and tail of the quadratic would be less sloped, and the most cut would happen toward the middle of the board. Quadratic hope that helps

these liners are brand new, just want to get a set of full thermofits instead, so these are for sale. $80