Buell

Thank you LiquidEarth. All Sold. Thank you.

There is a hole drilled at the bottom of each slit.

I am out of town right now and cannot look at my boots. If the buckle just screws in, it seems like you could just move it. John did lengthen the cable so it would be long enough in the new location. If you put it on the cuff pivot I expect the B and D cuff pivot replacement kit would make it easier, but I don't expect it is needed. I think the holes were a test to increase medial/lateral flex but, in John's opinion it's main improvement was to dampen the ride in firm conditions. I cannot say either way as I have not had a worthy test of these boots. I am also not able to compare the lower cuff mods yet. Carpet testing shows a smoother range of motion overall on John's boots compared to my boots which only have the walk/ride bar modified. In good conditions, my boots ride exceptionally well but in mixed conditions, they could ride better. I am hopeful that the carpet test results will translate to on snow results.

More boot mods: Here are the current Phantom Bindings boot mods on a pair of demo boots that John sent me to try. I am pretty sure he has taken it further than most and is working on a kit to make these mods easy for the rest of us. Power strap is removed. The original arch buckle is moved over the ankle like in RoroSnow's post above. On this boot, when the buckle was moved, the cuff pivot was replaced using the B and D cuff pivot replacement kit. The opening in the walk/ride plate is expanded upwards to increase the forward motion of the boot. I expand mine several millimeters higher and into the top T-nut hole (the top T-nut does not seem to be necessary) than John has done on this boot. While the upper cuff is removed, some material on the lower cuff above the pivots is removed and the plastic is slit to increase lateral / medial flex. Holes are drilled at the bottom of the slits to keep them from expanding. Holes are drilled in the upper cuff to dampen the boot when riding in mixed conditions. John swears snow getting into the boot is not an issue. One mod I have seen (and tried) that John has not done on this boot is to lower the height of the upper cuff by removing the plastic that held the powerstrap and cutting some of the medial side plastic away at the top of the cuff. This mod is designed to provide more medial flex. For me, the shorter upper cuff caused pressure points on the insides of my shins and I prefer the full height upper cuff. For Rebecca, it relieved pressure points on the back of her calf. Everyone is different I guess.

Test it out for your own riding. There will be many opinions here. In the simplest terms, I use toe and heel lift to place my body in the correct position fore and aft on the board to make the turns I want to make. If I feel I need to be more over the nose, I decrease toe lift and/or increase heel lift. If I am too over the nose I increase toe lift and/or decrease heel lift. Lift will also affect the angle of your lower leg to the board which I have found can affect my turns, especially initiation. Boot forward lean has an effect on this as well. Sometimes a change will help one side and harm the other. IIRC, riders who use the gas pedal effect talk about the increase power on toe sides. It would make toesides harder for me by moving my body back and standing my front leg up too much to have a strong initiation.

The adapter plates and toe pieces are sold.

Hey Al, You are a couple of years too late. I had an earlier model of the 178 Voile Swallowtail.

Carve99, PM sent.

Thanks Mick. It is nice to be back.

I set my binding angles so that my toes and heels are at the edges of my board. Because softboot boards are wider, softboots will almost always be set at lower angles that a hardboot set up. Soft boots and bindings are not well designed to be run at high angles anyway. I have ridden softboots at 39f/33r, but I prefer to run them at lower angles than that. Somewhere around 30f/24r, but again, it depends on the width of the board. On hardboots, I get my boards built to a width where I ride 55f/50r With softboot bindings, you can (and should) rotate your binding highback to sit more directly behind your heel as you increase your angles. Rotating the highback behind your boot will give you more heel side power and help keep your upper boot cuff from slipping off the side of the highback during heelsides. Softboot riding and carving tends to be more about finesse that hardboot carving. The equipment overall and the the board/rider connection is less stiff. You will want a lighter touch but can also be more playful (at least I can). I tend to float (balance?) on my edge more in softboots and drive my edge more in hardboots.

156 Prior Khyber Split Snowboard for sale - SOLD Great powder board! The Khyber has 22 mm of taper for float in powder and agile turns for trees and tight terrain. Very good condition. Does have some rock scrapes on the base and some rock rash on the rails. Comes with a set of used skins. No hardware. Prior says: Rider Type: Self propelled backcountry snowboarders who want a quick-turning ride that maximizes their powder experience. Best For: Powder of all kinds - from tight trees to chutes, pillow lines and open bowls.

Hardshell boot Splitboard gear if anyone is interested: I have 2 sets of Dynafit adapter plates (both heel and toe adapters) and toe pieces for sale. SOLD I also have 3 sets of Phantom extra Board Cleats. SOLD Thanks, Buell

Hardshell boots on splitboards, absolutely! Quite a few splitters do. They are not like alpine hardboots though since we don't really need power over the split in the same way we want for carving. We certainly do not want the weight since a major part of splitting is taking the gear uphill. To date, our hardshell boots have most all started out as lightweight AT boots before being modified for splitboarding (with a few exceptions like Boardski). I am really stoked on the Gignoux splitboard boot in the videos posted earlier. Hopefully they are tough enough for some rock dancing. The light weight is amazing and having an elastomer controlled forward flex could be a great step forward. We are still waiting on a more affordable splitboard hardshell boot, but it is nice to have a first option. Overall, with some exceptions, the TLT6 is the go to boot for splitboarders. You can sometimes find them pretty cheap on sale. The modifications that riders perform vary from just removing the power strap to a host of mods intended to soften the forward flex, increase the lateral/medial flex, dampen the ride, even moving buckles around. Generally, at a minimum, most riders will want to increase the forward motion of the upper cuff for splitboarding. John Keffler of Phantom is about to release a boot mod kit for the TLT6 which, depending on how far you want to modify your boot, will really help. Dynafit toepieces with adapters from Spark or Phantom are really nice for skinning any elevation when compared to using the binding plate. I think Phantom and Spark both sell the toe piece with their adapter. Phantom bindings are the best thought out AT boot binding system. The way they connect the board halves together and the rider to the board is so much better than you can get with current puck system bindings. Spark Dynos have been very well received but do rely on the Voile puck system. Those are the two serious US binding options and we are lucky to have them. If you want ride high angles, that will be a struggle with both options. I think some riders have been able to get Voile pucks to relatively higher angles. Here is my current set up. The board is a super light carbon Amplid Milligram. Amplid is Peter Bauer's small snowboard company, which is really cool. He knows how to build good boards. The bindings, clips, toe piece adapters, and heel risers are Phantom.

Someone needs to buy this board from Don. Especially some of the medium to lighter weight riders (not too light because Don rips at his 135 pounds) who have a hard time finding excellent used boards in their weight range. He takes excellent care of his gear and I have never seen him fall in a lot of days riding together on all kinds of snow conditions (easy on a board). Don and I have the same custom 162 Kessler SL that is the little brother (built at the same time) of this 177 and the 162 is an awesome board. If I had not already over committed to high end boards this season, I would be discussing a purchase of this 177 with Don. Buell

I wonder if you had a defective toe block to start with.

Did you have to replace it?

I run my lifts just like philw and pogokoenig describe. Works just fine for Rebecca and myself over the last 7 years and gives us tons of flexibility with lifts. Not sure I understand "cracking". Did your bindings break and you had to replace them?

This is a cross post from mudbone's Cypress and Molina FS thread: Were all these listed boards built before 2004? Dates of construction would be helpful for potential buyers. The FLC is a metal board and did not exist until just 3 or so years ago.

I love that guy. Early YouTube classic! I have more fear of drowning under the snow than drowning in the ocean. You'd be fine on your longboard.

Just waiting on a Cashier's check to arrive that the buyer says has been sent. 99.99% sold.

You might like F2s if you change from Burton.

I am interested in the 175 Cypress. Please PM me through BOL or email me at Buell at Mosaic-gardens dot com when you get a chance. Thanks, Buell

Thanks for the help everyone. We are in the process of reserving a place in June Lake for 2 months next winter. We are stoked, even if it is a year away. We'll have a pass for both Mammoth and June Lake so there will be plenty of options. We look forward to meeting the carvers in the area.

The Silly Good specs are: Length: 200cm Waist: 20.5cm Effective edge: 183cm Taper: 12cm Sidecut: (from Bordy) A blended side cut that starts at around 20m at the tip and is much larger at the tail Hardbooter says: Although the days of one run Super G glory or failure are gone the Super G turn lives on in this current resurrection of a speed machine. Weather you are trying to make the best out of your local smooth wide open speed run or charging the steepest cord this board will give you the opportunity to go as fast as your self confidence allows. This is the biggest fastest metal board we could dream up before it became too large to be practical at the largest resorts in America. This board is also available with Hangl-sprang inserts. ($1200) [TABLE=align: left] <tbody>[TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] http://www.hardbooter.com/Hardbooter_Titanal_Custom_Alpine_Snowboard_p/2009_prior.htm

Wow Adam, I am really sorry to hear about that. I hope your recovery goes as well as possible. I met you and saw you carve at the WTC about 7 years ago. It was just my first year on hardboots. One of your turns is burned in my mind. You were on a 196 F2 from Dave and Bordy. I could not believe how beautiful the turn was that I was watching. In fact, just a few days ago that turn was in my mind. I was thinking that I am not there yet but I am much closer. I has been one of my measuring sticks of my own skill since I saw it. Is the Prior 200 the Hardbooter Sillygood that is built by Prior?