jacopodotti

Go on leeoho730, I pass.

Shurely I'll pay the shipment if you send me your address I can check if I can organize it from Italy and compare the price with the one you'll find. Otherwise you could send them to a friend of mine in New York and he will send them to me.

Do you ship to Italy?

or maybe in the swoad forum they are from swiss too

Will work but the feeling is so different because the 4 parts one are more or less fully compressed by the blocks' screws. The blu ones are softer than the grey one and on the other end protect also your board from scratches. In my experience with the gold ones you cannot install the one part rubber

If you one are the yellow you need just the one in the photo of oldsnowboards. As said board rubber alu plastic. If you have the gold one board alu rubber(the two pieces one), plastic

You can change the front and the rear block and replace them with the normal ones. Ithink that it will costs you the same of buying a new pair. Maybe you could buy a pair of Proflex freecarve and get the block from there(5mm).

Assuming that the bindings are these In the race plates the rubber pads goes beneath the alluminim part and the board. Starting from the board the order is board->rubber pad->alluminium plate-> plastic part

I use Palau Overlap Soft but the next I'll buy will be Overlap Hard. The guy from Palau wrote me more or less that the soft are preferable for Extreme Carving and the hard for Race and Freecarving

Between the one you have wrote I've never tried other than my SG Full Carve 180 which is a fantastic freecarving glass board at a resonable price, for us in Europe. Very fast, using Alpine Replay I've found my average, substained and top speed grown 10kmh between my last 180 board. In any case it is also very forgiving and let you come out from bad situations very easly. Just one defect , the topsheer seems to be very fragile. I've protected mine with a 3m trasparent film. I've also one Full Race 170 which is a metal board, but due to the different size I cannot compare with the Full Carve 180 and I've tried only for a couple of hours this summer. Just for information it seems to run like a 180 and carve tight as a 160 but it is just the first impression.

My experience is that the bindings has to be locked with just one hand, if you cannot they are too tight.

Im my expericence SG boards are quite soft in front, hard in center and medium at the back. Consider that I'm just a week end carver so my are not pro opinion.

:) I mean using which platform.

It depends how the website was made.

Ciao I have Speed 178(old shape with long nose), a 170 Full Race 2010 and a Full Carve 180. The overall flex seems to be pretty similar in the whole boards. Maybe the only thing that has to be considered is the oldness of the titanal. Maybe this guy is not a racer but I think that is important to know how much the board was ridden.

You could try something as this http://www.dainese.com/it_it/motorbike/g-carve-master-gore-tex.html?cat=12

In my opinion that is the point, the UPZ RC10 and the Deeluxe AF700 are great boots. The RC10 has also a very small footprint, so why take chance and spend that lot of money?

Ok thanks.

Thanks , but I hope to save something. Do you know when the second board kit will be available?

I have a pair of Head Cirrus pro and I' ll let them go just for the price of the shipment( from Italy more or less 100 usd) and a smile.

Hi I want to buy a pair of Bomber TD 2 6° canting

I've remembered that I've seen them on an asian website before but i can't find it any more. Later I'll try to find it.

thanks

OT Which is the Bomber on line Japan website?

Everything from here http://bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/tech_articles.html you could also fin something interesting here http://www.carvers.it/f-a-q-2/snowboard-stance-inglese/