Fleaman Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 I am thinking about toying around with some home made conshock or tinkler plates. What are they made out of? Aluminum wrapped with carbon fiber or fiberglass and a rubber bottom? also how thick are they? Do they mount to the board with the unused binding holes or just screw your bindings on top of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 Tinkler plates are homemade and he is a pattent freak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufty Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 http://www.espacenet.com/access/index.en.htm would be a good place to start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 you are allowed to home make anything without copyright problems if it stays at home :) and you're not selling it. You could even make your own version of star wars at home without having hollywood lawyers busting you! Its called freedom :) So i guess its ok to make your own "conshox" :) Not sure its really usefull thu... N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 I am thinking about toying around with some home made conshock or tinkler plates. What are they made out of? Aluminum wrapped with carbon fiber or fiberglass and a rubber bottom? also how thick are they? Do they mount to the board with the unused binding holes or just screw your bindings on top of it? I have a sheet of carbon fibre here that I was thinking of playing with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 Seems to me you'd have to mold the carbon yourself, curved similar to the board profile. Otherwise it would only contact the board in the middle, and the ends would float above the topsheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted January 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 Seems to me you'd have to mold the carbon yourself, curved similar to the board profile. Otherwise it would only contact the board in the middle, and the ends would float above the topsheet. You are right on the button on that one, I would guess that it would be preloaded on the board so that the tips contact and the middle gets contact when screwed in. I was looking around my work today and say that some old big traffic signs might make a good Aluminum core. Then wrapped with some fiberglass and glued to a rubber sheet. Maybe I have been watching the Red Green Show too much, but I think it will be fun to play around with. I don't plan on selling it so don't ask! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 Tinkler plates are homemade and he is a pattent freak. Custom made, smart man. I have seen allot of interesting construction methods. Do what sounds right to you and follow your own line. You might hit magic! Patents are tough and expensive and often difficult to enforce. Mike's work can be seen on allot of skis, boards etc that never paid anything for his development work. That is another story for sure. The only reason some of the companies have paid is due to the patents, so , they are of some value. All I know is the dampening systems work and I am one willing to pay for the expertise. Sure doesn't hurt to "Tinker" with different techniques , I know Mike has been for years. Materials, blends, shapes, distances, weights, lots to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 Aluminum seems like a dubious core material... I mean, how far can you bend it before it just stays bent? And if you're using a thin sheet (thin compared to a wood core), how much glass would it take to get it stiff enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted January 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 Nate, Just thinking about what you posted. if it would bend so far as to deform the aluminium, would it crack the glass also? Maybe wood might be a better choice for a core or maybe just Fiberglass or Carbon fiber mats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~tb Posted January 7, 2006 Report Share Posted January 7, 2006 Fleaman, I have thought about doing the same for quite some time now. I had a slightly different concept I wanted to try with a plate, that I am sure mike and others have already tried. I have the entire vacuum bag set up in my basement to do the small work, and even a cambered mold. (carbon work is another one of my little hobbies) The issue I hit is that I think that the additional attachment points are important. Until this is overcome, I am not bothering looking into building a plate. NO, I will not t-nut one of my good boards! I am considering having my next board made with several additional inserts already in place. Without these, I believe a top plate would be little more than a fancy, expensive ornament. Contact me offline if you want to talk building concepts. ~tb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted January 7, 2006 Report Share Posted January 7, 2006 I don't know how far you could bend aluminum before it would stay bent, but my guess (just a guess) is that aluminum has a lower threshold than wood for that sort of thing. The fiberglass might pull it back into shape, but it might not be able to straighten out kinks. I think it would be interesting to try attaching an overlay without bolts at all, and just use an adhesive - like a huge stomp pad. Or maybe a very thin double-sided tape, though I don't know how long that would last. Seems like you'd get some shear at the ends when the board decambers and that might tear up the tape after a while. A sandwich like that might provide a lot of damping though. Or you could build the overlay with twice the camber of the board, and bet on the preload to keep the overlay and the topsheet in contact. That should add some stiffness but probably not much damping. (If it isn't obvious, I'm making this stuff up as I go along... take it all with a grain of salt. :) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted January 7, 2006 Report Share Posted January 7, 2006 Nate you hit on some key features and issues with plates. If you want to make a good plate do some research on Ski derby plate. Take this idea and apply the logic behind it to snowboarding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.