barryj Posted March 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2021 10 hours ago, johnasmo said: BB was suggesting outward cant, not inward. Outward canting will let you pressure the heel edge without needing to bring the knee in as far. That means putting the tick part to the inside of your heel. This suggested "Outward Canting" doesn't make any sense to me. I would think I would want some ramp to the outside of my heel to provide resistance to it's desire to trail behind. Moving the 3' disk to the inside of my heel seems like it will just add more opportunity for my knee to roll to the outside! Either way it's a mute point at the moment......... today was every bit icecoast harpack but I tried using more conscious effort on pulling my knee in and pointing my hips more when hard charging. Pointing hips had effect on heel side in finishing of turn but it brought the board around at the end of turn with a slide effect. Will practice more "hips" tomorrow in less firm conditions......... report to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 16, 2021 Report Share Posted March 16, 2021 Try it both ways to see if you feel the difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnasmo Posted March 17, 2021 Report Share Posted March 17, 2021 6 hours ago, barryj said: This suggested "Outward Canting" doesn't make any sense to me. I would think I would want some ramp to the outside of my heel to provide resistance to it's desire to trail behind. Moving the 3' disk to the inside of my heel seems like it will just add more opportunity for my knee to roll to the outside! Where your knee is doesn't matter unless it drags in the snow on toe side. The point of moving the rear knee at all from its neutral position is to pressure the boot one way or the other so as to affect the tilt of the tail. Bringing knees closer together twists the tail higher on heel edge relative to the nose. Spaying them apart twists the tail higher on toe edge. So tucking the rear knee in will help keep the tail hooked up when finishing a heel side turn. Splaying a bit will help keep the tail hooked up when finishing a toe side turn. If you add inward canting beyond what is neutral to your anatomy, you will be reducing the amount of inward pressure you can add by moving your knee. You will instead be increasing the amount of outward pressure you can add with your knee, and may find yourself exerting outward pressure against the boot all the time. You'll get more toe side tail grip, but less heel side tail grip. The only three inputs the board and snow care about are the angle of tilt at the front binding, the angle of tilt at the rear binding, and the center of gravity relative to them. Where our limbs and body parts go to generate those inputs doesn't have to look a certain way. Don't worry about the trailing knee unless you're having trouble losing the tail during heel side turns. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted March 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2021 In my effort to tighten up my turns and find the required neutral stance on my SF162 I moved my rear binding back 1 more notch to hopefully improve my heel side railing, which was a move in the right direction ......but a added bonus is my rear knee isn't lagging behind quite a much as before I think I was throwing my rear knee to the outside on my toesides and it was lagging behind on heelside...... but this more neutral ...off the nose stance seems to have resolved some of that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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