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New binding thoughts


Randy Kight

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Have a boot post out there as well, but also giving thought to trying out a pair of F2's this year.  I've been in Burton Race since early 90's and a couple of years above bought Fin's SD3 SideWinders.  I've tried stepins back in early 2000's and they were simply too stiff for my liking.

I'm 215-220 pounds and medium aggressive, but like mellower angles (45/35), which were what I learned on back in 1990 with the Burton Vari Plates.  I like what I currently have, but always concerned with the Burton's blowing up and the SideWinders feel nice.  

I'd like input from those that are familiar with the F2 offerings and how they feel/ride compared to the SideWinders.  If I was to pick up a pair, what would be the thought on which model and why.

Sincerely appreciate the help and time....Merry Christmas.

Randy Kight

Richmond, VA

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Hi Randy


I pulled the information below from an old thread and updated it a bit to better suit your specific question.  These 'flex-feel' ratings below are VERY subjective, but many forum members seem to agree most of the time about the flex of these bindings.  Bomber, F2 and iBex bindings are all proven, so it becomes a Chevy vs Ford debate in the end.


1) F2 Carve RS (Toe Lever) - Softest, lightest bindings, very good for lower stance angles (closer to Burton vari-plate  to give you a ball park idea of the flex).


2) F2 Carve RS (Step In) - A bit stiffer than toe lever RS


3) F2 Race Titanium (Toe Lever) (Closer to Burton/iBex)  The ability to micro adjust the F2 Toe Lever tightness can make the F2 race feel stiffer or softer than a Burton Plate.

4) Bomber TD3 SideWinder (Toe Lever) - Slightly stiffer than the F2 Race

 

FWIW, I think you probably would really enjoy the F2 bindings on your Volkl Spline 164 with the lower stance angles you mentioned (45-35) because of the light weight and softer side flex.  I think many would say that Bombers smooth out the chatter better than F2.  If you want to carve harder, get the Race Titanium. If you are looking for a more mobile All Mountain feel, many like the Carve RS.


Cheers
Rob

 

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Huge thanks Rob!  Great information.  I think what interests me the most is that you mention you think the F2 Race feels slightly softer than my SideWinders, and that the F2 Race can feel similar to the old Burton/Ibex...slightly softer if set in such a way.  I definitely like the SW's more than previous versions of Bombers, which I felt were to stiff.  

Probably give F2 Race a shot.  Now if I could only determine what boot to try...700 or 325 coming from older SB324's.

 

Randy

 

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I ride the F2 race titanium toe lever and stepins depending on the board.  I like the stepins for higher angles (65/60) on my skinnier boards and the toe lever model for mellower angles (50/40) on wider boards since the toe bails are more flexy.  The toe lever sidewinders have a flex somewhere between the race ti stepins and toe levers IMO.   Definitely be diligent about checking all the parts on the F2s for stress and cracks.  I'm ~190 lbs and ride aggressively and the T-nuts on the F2s don't hold up very long under the abuse.  Get an extra set of the t-nuts and keep a couple on you or in the car. I pulled some t-nuts that had about 25 days on them that were very bent and starting to crack.  I like them, but they definitely require more looking after and small parts replacement than the bombers. Good luck!

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I too have a pair of the F2 titanium step ins (thanks Aaron) and the light weight and flex are very nice. I have not put enough days on the to formulate an opinion. I did notice having to tighten the toe clip screws often as they loosen up after a run or two. Sidewinder step ins/set and forget. Truly a superior product in my opinion. Looking forward to a possible "td-4" from Bomber. Step ins are the best in my opinion. The convenience outweighs any lack of flex. Had tons of fun yesterday on two boards I had shelved last season. What's old was new again especially in 4-6" of the soft/dry stuff

Edited by slopestar
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8 hours ago, kiteparsons said:

Definitely be diligent about checking all the parts on the F2s for stress and cracks.  I'm ~190 lbs and ride aggressively and the T-nuts on the F2s don't hold up very long under the abuse.  Get an extra set of the t-nuts and keep a couple on you or in the car. I pulled some t-nuts that had about 25 days on them that were very bent and starting to crack.  I like them, but they definitely require more looking after and small parts replacement than the bombers.

Kite, where are you sourcing replacement T-nuts? If it's your local hardware store, um, you're buying Chinese tin. May I suggest using McMaster-Carr tool supply, or perhaps talk to suppliers of Aircraft Quality bolts? Then, the materials will, at least, have an Industrial Standard to conform to. The Chinese have little regard for 'quality' in public marketplaces.

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3 hours ago, Eric Brammer aka PSR said:

Kite, where are you sourcing replacement T-nuts? If it's your local hardware store, um, you're buying Chinese tin. May I suggest using McMaster-Carr tool supply, or perhaps talk to suppliers of Aircraft Quality bolts? Then, the materials will, at least, have an Industrial Standard to conform to. The Chinese have little regard for 'quality' in public marketplaces.

PSR,

I get the real deal ones from Sean at Donek. I probably beat on them harder and more often than most. Do you think I could get a stronger tnut through McMaster-Carr? I would definitely be interested. 

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1 hour ago, kiteparsons said:

PSR,

I get the real deal ones from Sean at Donek. I probably beat on them harder and more often than most. Do you think I could get a stronger tnut through McMaster-Carr? I would definitely be interested. 

No, not thru  Mc Master-Carr, but, perhaps thru Aircraft-Quality parts. I will look around for you. The Industry Standard you want, at the minimum, is DIN. Beyond that, look for stress ratings above US Grade 5. Although those ratings increase with the bolt size (why, exactly Bomber used 8mm standard in mounting screws on plates/arches!), so, you need the BEST t-Nuts made, at least Stainless Grade-5, or better... 

I will post up when/if i can resource a vendor that accepts bolt as small as 6 mm, 7 mm, or 8 mm, in Aircraft T-nuts or fasteners.

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