ti_knee Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hopefully this isn't too off topic.... I am teaching 3D CAD at my school, and designed and printed some toe bail screws for my Sidewinders (sold to me missing them). I ran them through a die today to smooth out the threads and will post some pics installed tonight if they work. The hex key is a bit snug, but works too. If anybody has a printer and wants to try printing them out, PM me for the files. Any other parts (non-load bearing until I get some nylon going) that would be useful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Couldn't you find these at a hardware store or McMaster-Carr or something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 What material are you using for the screw ? Since the screw is in compression rather than tension my guess is anything harder than bubble gum will work. Get you guys working on a boot ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pow4ever Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Cool!! You should upload to thingiverse. Most hobbyist 3d printer use ABS plastic. It's got similar strength to Lego block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 you could print some keyed heel risers for mr_orange .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 We had a 3D printer on loan for a while to try out. The only practical items we printed could be bought for a lot less. The gee-whiz stuff we printed had no practical value. Sometimes it is a solution looking for a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti_knee Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks for the replies. They screwed in perfectly, but are a bit long, so I'll try again tomorrow. No McMaster Carr here, but I did use their website for the hardware dimensions and the thread pitch, etc... I think I improved on the originals with the wider base too. I recall seeing a few pairs of boots where that spot on the toe was getting a bit worn. The cost of the plastic was less than 10 cents... printer a lot more, but I didn't have to pay for that! I'd never buy one for home use. It's way too finicky and the design, setup, and printing takes forever. No ABS because it's sitting in a classroom with virtually no air circulation and no fume hood or anything. It's PLA plastic, which probably won't hold up that well, but it's not a load-bearing part in any way. ABS would be good and Nylon would be probably even better for this kind of part. John, I totally get your point for home use, but in the school it's been pretty cool. After the kids got over making their iPhone cases, and silly things like dinosaur tooth models, we have been making scale model bridges to test out truss designs, will be printing molds for lenses for a light and optics unit etc... The kids in my CAD class are using some of the Autodesk software and are getting pretty skilled. I honestly can't see anything as complex as a boot or mold for one printing out nicely. It's certainly not impossible. If I were to undertake that, I'd want a pretty big printer and I'd use two print heads, one printing the boot material and another printing support material that would dissolve away after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 You can make a canting and lifting pieces for F2 bindings. Even more, you can do pieces with both, canting and lifting in one. It used under a heavy load, so you need to test it before real use, but this might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti_knee Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) Update, printed some shorter ones, ran them through the tap, and installed. The fit is decidedly un-snug, so I got them where I wanted and added a few drops of superglue. I think the ramps would work fine, just done in a different material... This PLA is really brittle and doesn't play too nicely with water. Edited December 22, 2014 by ti_knee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 You're getting way better results than my mendel max 1.5. A part that small is just wasted effort on my machine. I do not have the time right now to be fiddling with the darn thing. It seems to me that the technology is basically something with potential, but more of a paperweight that occupies way more time than necessary to create something usable. My cheap CNCmogul router is far more reliable and predictable than the printer and can create a structural and usable part in a fraction of the time. The screw, however, is beyond it's capabilities. I'm very curious about the new dremel machine, and HP claims to be releasing something that is currently 6 times faster than any machine currently available. Their release date is 2 years out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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