Looking for mogul board recommendation

[DForester]

Not into carving, but I'm a diehard hard boot enthusiast. Currently I'm riding a 5'5" Dupraz D1 and for most of the mountain I love it- does great in the powder, fun and fast on the groomers, great surfy feeling. However, I really enjoy riding moguls and the Dupraz is long and wide and is a lot of work to throw around through the bumps.

What's a good board (that I can find used) that might be a better fit for the days when I want to hit the moguls? Intuitively, I would think something smaller with a good amount of flex. But I have known my intuition to be wrong from time to time...

Would love to hear some recommendations. I need some sort of justification for lusting after a new (to me) board.

[BlueB]

For hard boots, I assume? My favorite ever is Nidecker Proto.

[DForester]

Absolutely- for hard boots. I wear Raichle 123s and use SnowPro step-in Race bindings with FAST heels. I've found this a workable setup that gives enough flex for bump runs.

I'll look into the Nidecker Proto.

[snowboardfast]

Other boards that work well in moguls-Burton Alp 163, Burton Edeck 163 or Prior 4wd in shorter lengths 164. I like a shorter board in moguls as it is less work to manage especialy on steeper terrain. Another board that would probably work well would be the pureboarding boards. I would agree that Dupraz is a little harder to ride in bumps as I have the longer Dupraz D1 fun but not the best choice for moguls. the only problem with Burton is you need a 3 hole disc to fit the inserts but that is not too much of a problem.

[dingbat]

Pureboarding Two.

And you can carve the everloving crap out of it.

[BlueB]

Other boards that work well in moguls-Burton Alp 163, Burton Edeck 163 or Prior 4wd in shorter lengths 164. I like a shorter board in moguls as it is less work to manage especialy on steeper terrain. Another board that would probably work well would be the pureboarding boards. I would agree that Dupraz is a little harder to ride in bumps as I have the longer Dupraz D1 fun but not the best choice for moguls. the only problem with Burton is you need a 3 hole disc to fit the inserts but that is not too much of a problem.

Good suggestions! I'd say Prior ATV rather then 4WD...

The F2 ElDiablo / X-Cross / Vantage (the original one) would work nicely too. The SG Cult worked good for me too - it's like a narrower Dupraz.

[BlueB]

Bindings are possibly even more important then the board (as long as the board is of reasonable spec). I use much stiffer boots then you and Snowpros are too stiff for me - I freeride on plastic base bindings like F2 Carve RS / Pro-FLex / Blax... Binding setup biased for freeriding also helps a lot.

[charliechocolate]

For hard boots, I assume? My favorite ever is Nidecker Proto.

I second this. You beat me to it ;). I'm at whistler and I'm thinking I should've brought that board with me instead what with the foot-high soft bumps everywhere.

[DForester]

Bindings are possibly even more important then the board (as long as the board is of reasonable spec). I use much stiffer boots then you and Snowpros are too stiff for me - I freeride on plastic base bindings like F2 Carve RS / Pro-FLex / Blax... Binding setup biased for freeriding also helps a lot.

Besides riding on a plastic base, what is your standard binding setup for freeriding? The only other bindings I have left are mid-90s Burton Race. I was under the impression most of the new hardboot bindings available today are stiffer than what was available back in the day. As a rule, I don't mess with my binding setup much, other than to increase my angles every few years. Hearing about setting them up specifically for moguls would a conversation I'd like to continue.

[DForester]

I second this. You beat me to it ;). I'm at whistler and I'm thinking I should've brought that board with me instead what with the foot-high soft bumps everywhere.

+2 for Nidecker Proto means I'm going to start seeing who's got one for sale and for how much. You all think it is significantly different than the Dupraz to merit adding to the mix? Has it been produced in a 158ish size?

[DForester]

I have an E deck in the garage that's never seen snow. I picked it up years ago for dirt cheap. It's the 156 version, and I've always been concerned that at 180lbs I'm a bit heavy for it. But I'll try it out in the next week and see how it goes.

[BlueB]

Besides riding on a plastic base, what is your standard binding setup for freeriding? The only other bindings I have left are mid-90s Burton Race. I was under the impression most of the new hardboot bindings available today are stiffer than what was available back in the day. As a rule, I don't mess with my binding setup much, other than to increase my angles every few years. Hearing about setting them up specifically for moguls would a conversation I'd like to continue.

Race plates should do...

I ride with small small toe lift front and bigger heel lift back. The angle splay is 15-20 degrees. This gives me overhang on the rear boot, but that is not a problem unless on very hard pack (when I won't be in moguls anyhow). I add the inward cant at the rear to increase the stance length, but can ride without it too.

At 180 lbs you should go for Proto 167 or 162, they are very soft. 158 is too small.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

Edited January 12, 2014 by BlueB

[philw]

I would think the Dupraz is not the best tool irrespective, but otherwise it depends what you mean. I'd guess it'd be too stiff in the wrong places and probably too wide.

When I'm in practice, I'm fine on nice soft friendly moguls up to a particular size, at which point it tends to get less pretty. On piste I ride a Kessler 156SL (@62kgs) - a metal board which allows you to hit things quicker that the glass boards I used before. It's short, not good if you think your manhood is dependent on the size of your board, but neat to slip between those bumps. You can carve it through moderate bumps with little hassle.

After that I think it depends what type of bumps you have in mind, and perhaps what else you want to ride. You could presumably optimise for bumps, but there's a whole resort out there, so I think some compromise is likely to be needed.

Boot/ binding wise, I've not tried American bindings, although I hear they can be stiff. Simple F2 race bindings work pretty well with standard hard boots.

[Neil Gendzwill]

I recommend a shorter AM design with a wider (21 cm+) waist. The E-deck should work. I prefer a shallower stance to make getting the board back and forth easier. I'm currently using a Coiler AM 172 at 50/45. As was said upthread a softer boot/binding interface is good - I am using Raichle 224s and F2 Titanflex step-ins.

[DForester]

At 180 lbs you should go for Proto 167 or 162, they are very soft. 158 is too small.

I'm now officially looking for a 162 Nidecker Proto. Is there much difference between different years? Any generation in particular I should be looking for? The last ones for sale on Bomber were in the $110-150 range, is that price appropriate?

All those with Protos for sale, please begin queuing up with boards ready for inspection. No pushing please.

[DForester]

I really appreciate everyone's thoughtful take on this. I'll be pulling out old bindings from the garage this afternoon (since unfortunately I'm not boarding today) and play with lift, cant, and angle possibilities.

[bumpyride]

Bumps are about all we think about doing. Been concentrating on them for the last 15 years and here's what I've found.

The board of choice for us is the old Burton Ultra Primes (The shortest length that you can effectively use). Just stiff enough and lively enough to launch you over to the next bump. They're narrow enough to not tork the heck out of your ankles when digging into the sides of the bumps, and responsive enough to do most of the work for you. Edge changes are lightning fast. I love the fact that the Ultra's love to go airborne when coming out of the turn, and there's nothing quite like doing the directional changes in the air. A lively board is definitely what works for us. Other boards I've liked have been the Alp series from Burton and the Coils from Burton. I hated the E deck, it just seemed dead.

Boots: Second the Raichle 123's. I have 3 pair because I live in fear of breaking them. You need to have enough give in your boots to be able to absorb the quick directional change when rolling through the bumps. Stiff boots are the bane of bumps. Been a lot of discourse on flex, but you need to be able to move forward and aft quickly and the flexier boots work better. Some use the BTS, but we ride the bumps in the walk mode--been doing it for 15 years and so far no problems. I ride different angles when in bumps. I find a difference of 15 to 18 degrees between front and rear bindings make those directional changes much quicker and more stable. Think martial arts stance, eg. 66 front 48 rear.

Bindings, need to have some give and take. Been riding F2's Intec (comp I think for years,the plastic ones) and they seem to be the best for bumps. Before the F2's we were using Burton Carrier Plates and Step-ins. They flex and smooth out the quick directional changes and the uneven surfaces. The stiff bindings have been proving to be less than forgiving, plus they put a lot of strain on the boards because of the sudden pressures on the forefoot.

I have no experience on newer boards because "If it ain't broke", and those boards have done everything I could possibly want in bumps and on the steeps. They're good to about 4 or 5" of fresh and after that it's "Dive, Dive, Dive". I would also say that they're only marginal for carving, unless you go to a longer size than normal.

Of course this is my opinion, but it's worked really well for us.

5'9" 142 to 150 lbs, using UltraPrime 156 for bumps and steeps and 162 when there aren't any and am resigned to carving.

[bumpyride]

Duplicate

Edited January 12, 2014 by bumpyride
doubled

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Just sold a really nice copy of a Nidecker Pro111

I do have a couple of the more alpine shaped versions. I also have some "Wire", "Coil" , "Amp" that all do well in the bumps.

PS> In humor, I would have to spew , "Hey dude, the 80's are calling". Some folks here remember when we actually had bump contests and boards named "Bump". Ya baby, on hardboots too. Damian lives on!!!

I also have vivid memories of ripping along trying to keep up with Carroll and Jacoby when they drop down onto a step bump course and absolutely RIP it smoothly with serious energy. Me? Not so much :)

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Just sold a really nice copy of a Nidecker Pro111

I do have a couple of the more alpine shaped versions. I also have some "Wire", "Coil" , "Amp" that all do well in the bumps.

PS> In humor, I would have to spew , "Hey dude, the 80's are calling". Some folks here remember when we actually had bump contests and boards named "Bump". Ya baby, on hardboots too. Damian lives on!!!

I also have vivid memories of ripping along trying to keep up with Carroll and Jacoby when they drop down onto a step bump course and absolutely RIP it smoothly with serious energy. Me? Not so much :)

[DForester]

Bumps are about all we think about doing. Been concentrating on them for the last 15 years and here's what I've found.

The board of choice for us is the old Burton Ultra Primes (The shortest length that you can effectively use). Just stiff enough and lively enough to launch you over to the next bump. They're narrow enough to not tork the heck out of your ankles when digging into the sides of the bumps, and responsive enough to do most of the work for you. Edge changes are lightning fast. I love the fact that the Ultra's love to go airborne when coming out of the turn, and there's nothing quite like doing the directional changes in the air. A lively board is definitely what works for us. Other boards I've liked have been the Alp series from Burton and the Coils from Burton. I hated the E deck, it just seemed dead.

Boots: Second the Raichle 123's. I have 3 pair because I live in fear of breaking them. You need to have enough give in your boots to be able to absorb the quick directional change when rolling through the bumps. Stiff boots are the bane of bumps. Been a lot of discourse on flex, but you need to be able to move forward and aft quickly and the flexier boots work better. Some use the BTS, but we ride the bumps in the walk mode--been doing it for 15 years and so far no problems. I ride different angles when in bumps. I find a difference of 15 to 18 degrees between front and rear bindings make those directional changes much quicker and more stable. Think martial arts stance, eg. 66 front 48 rear.

Bindings, need to have some give and take. Been riding F2's Intec (comp I think for years,the plastic ones) and they seem to be the best for bumps. Before the F2's we were using Burton Carrier Plates and Step-ins. They flex and smooth out the quick directional changes and the uneven surfaces. The stiff bindings have been proving to be less than forgiving, plus they put a lot of strain on the boards because of the sudden pressures on the forefoot.

I have no experience on newer boards because "If it ain't broke", and those boards have done everything I could possibly want in bumps and on the steeps. They're good to about 4 or 5" of fresh and after that it's "Dive, Dive, Dive". I would also say that they're only marginal for carving, unless you go to a longer size than normal.

Of course this is my opinion, but it's worked really well for us.

5'9" 142 to 150 lbs, using UltraPrime 156 for bumps and steeps and 162 when there aren't any and am resigned to carving.

Thanks for more info. I shouldn't have much trouble finding an UltraPrime - it seems like they have fallen out of favor for most and sell for relatively cheap. I'll start looking for a 156 (think it will work for me at 5,8", 180lbs?). I think I would rather go for the smaller size to get around bumps quicker.

I ride my Raichle 123s in walk mode as well. Every once in a while they get flipped while I'm riding and I think, "Wow, why does everything feel stiff and clunky all of a sudden?" Appreciate the suggestion for the angles. Gives me something new to try next week.

Are the F2 Intecs much different in terms of flex from the SnowPro step-ins I'm using? Anybody know?

[DForester]

Just sold a really nice copy of a Nidecker Pro111

I do have a couple of the more alpine shaped versions. I also have some "Wire", "Coil" , "Amp" that all do well in the bumps.

PS> In humor, I would have to spew , "Hey dude, the 80's are calling". Some folks here remember when we actually had bump contests and boards named "Bump". Ya baby, on hardboots too. Damian lives on!!!

I also have vivid memories of ripping along trying to keep up with Carroll and Jacoby when they drop down onto a step bump course and absolutely RIP it smoothly with serious energy. Me? Not so much :)

Got an UltraPrime you're willing to part with?

What size Wire, Coil, Amps do you have and in what condition?

[BlueB]

I'm now officially looking for a 162 Nidecker Proto. Is there much difference between different years? Any generation in particular I should be looking for? The last ones for sale on Bomber were in the $110-150 range, is that price appropriate?

All those with Protos for sale, please begin queuing up with boards ready for inspection. No pushing please.

I ride the later ones, black with slightly pointed nose. They are wider then the older round nosed ones. They are all carbon and some titanal. They seldom sell less then 250...

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Might be easier to ask what size do you want?

I have a few. I have a real nice UP 162cm , red in very good condition. 150$ delivered. Contact me via PM for info.

There are more boards in my home than most snowboard shops.

I would agree with BlueB on the Nidecker Protos. I am definitely a buyer at 100$

Bryan

Edited January 13, 2014 by www.oldsnowboards.com

[DForester]

I ride the later ones, black with slightly pointed nose. They are wider then the older round nosed ones. They are all carbon and some titanal. They seldom sell less then 250...

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

Appreciate the heads up on price. I'll start saving up - it looks like I'll have some time, since I can't find a single one available on the internet!