scrutton Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Not sure how to pass on a pet peeve (cough request for product improvement) I have, so I thought I'd start a new thread. I just about love all of the improvements with the TD3's over the TD2's (such as ability to remove the binding from the board without disassembling it), the improved look of it also. One thing that ticks me off though, is the lack of a good place on the front of the binding to locate a leash. I use a thick Burton leash on all of my boards, a short leash that has a thick cord, and a thumb operated lever that expands a loop that can open/close. It feels secure and clips onto a tiny caribeener on my boot quite quickly. It's not possible to loop this through the front binding, as it's so thick, you end up having to size the binding out one size larger to be able to fit it into the binding, and you get some sloppiness with it done that way. I mean it's possible, just not ideal. On the TD2 binding, I found that I can locate the leash on the base plate, just underneath the front toe block; due to the way the toe block splits down the center there is ample room to be able to attach the leash to the base plate. On the TD3 binding, the toe block's split is no longer there, and the way I have mine set up, the hole in the base plate is covered up by the toe block. Doh! I could run a loop all the way to the heel block I suppose, although I'd rather not do that as it's awkward. How I have it configured at the moment is to disassemble the front bail, and loop the leash into it, and reassemble the bail, so only one line of the leash has to be in there. I then have to ensure that the leash stays down to the corner of the bail, in that small area where there is a gap in the boot/bail/toe block interface. All this got me to thinking, I wonder if the base plate could be made a little larger on one side, so that a place for a drilled out hole to accommodate a leash hole could be engineered. Just on one binding of course :-) Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 I put mine through the slots on the baseplate that are used for angle adjustment. If you're feeling crafty and use toe lift, you could bolt a plate to one or more of the unused toe-block holes from the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Buy Dakine Standard leash ~$5-$10: http://www.dakine.com/p/snowboard/leashes/standard-leash 1) Put buckle part around base plate below top plate. 2) Clip carabiner to loop. 3) Get into <strike>a</strike><strike>rguments</strike> discussions about leashes with fellow BOL members. 4) Put tools away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Requests? Spring loaded toe bales is my request. Assuming I won't have a pair of TD3 SW SI anytime soon for the powder boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 I do what Corey does (though clearly I did it first) with a leash similar to what Longbordin is showing above. I also put it on the inside of my leg otherwise it drags in an annoying fashion on heelsides. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 Requests? Spring loaded toe bales is my request. Assuming I won't have a pair of TD3 SW SI anytime soon for the powder boards. Yeah echo that also. I like the new stop on the TD3's, but something to hold the bail up would be nice; I find that it flips down as I'm trying to get into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 I put mine through the slots on the baseplate that are used for angle adjustment. I see what you guys mean. That might work with the length of my leash. I'll report back when I set up a new binding. I bought a bunch of these leashes (like 6 of them), so I don't have any plans to move to a full length leash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 (edited) It should work. Corey uses one of those short leashes that clip straight to a boot as well. And there's no requirement to set-up a new binding. The leash will got through the slot once the binding it fully installed. Dave Edited March 28, 2013 by Puddy Tat Added info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Yeah echo that also. I like the new stop on the TD3's, but something to hold the bail up would be nice; I find that it flips down as I'm trying to get into it. I put a small piece of ducttape on it, so the front bails will not come down, no need for a spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 corey_dyck was on the money here. My short leash just fits with the leash looped through the angle adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Nicely done. Thanks for the photos Paul. Problem solved!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VWBrian Posted May 7, 2018 Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 Attatch the leash to the board. Use one of the exposed screw inserts and bolt the leash directly to the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.