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What is your stance width?


NSSage

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Just went back to 20" after riding 18.5. Much better on the longer metal boards-184cm. I think I will ride 19" on all mountain boards as they are shorter andI need to be able to manuever quick on steeper terrain. 5' 10" 30" in seam. More stability and I feel like I can get better edgehold with the wider stance. You will have to experiment with width to see how it works for you? The only real reason I went narrower was because my back was hurting and I thought it might be due to stance width? I think the back pain is less because I got some custom orthotics which also got rid of my right ankle from hurting. The orthotics also might be helping me with balance as well?

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6ft. 1.539 in. tall 24 in. seam softboots 19.785 in. Hardboots 19.785 in. Sorels 19.785 in. Slippers 14.539 in.

This all seems right on the money, but where's the measurement for booties?? ...and are the Sorels au naturel? or are you using folded news paper between the cuff and lining?

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6'2", 34" inseam, 65/60 angles, 3deg toe/heel lift, flexy boots. Result is 20.5-21in stance width.

Lower angles = wider

Softer boots = wider

Toe/heel lift = wider (same with inward-canted soft bindings)

snowboardfast - orthotics definitely help with balance, because they are firmer than regular footbeds. (Try balancing on one foot on a hardwood floor, then on three yoga mats stacked on the same floor)

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6' 1", 33" inseam, 21" width, 60 front/57 rear. Having a heck of a time trying to keep my knees apart in a turn. Old school trying to get away from back knee tucked into back of fron tknee. Any ideas/help/assitance with this dilema? Would go wider, but riding older boards (Burton 178 FP, etc,..), so limited on width. Really trying to get the power/balance for racing. Flat front foot and have been experimenting with flat rear or 7 degree cants/rear. Using Burton plates/all boards.

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6' 1", 33" inseam, 21" width, 60 front/57 rear. Having a heck of a time trying to keep my knees apart in a turn. Old school trying to get away from back knee tucked into back of fron tknee. Any ideas/help/assitance with this dilema? Would go wider, but riding older boards (Burton 178 FP, etc,..), so limited on width. Really trying to get the power/balance for racing. Flat front foot and have been experimenting with flat rear or 7 degree cants/rear. Using Burton plates/all boards.

For me that problem is more about technique than stance. If I'm not bending my front knee enough or getting my hips forward enough or I'm riding rotated too far to the nose, I get that awkward a-framed stance. No amount of outward cant, spay, or width really changes that for me, and if you're trying to rectify a body positioning problem by doing the opposite with your stance, you'll just be very uncomfortable. I don't think it's always bad to have them close, from watching other racers it seems to happen a fair amount in very quick turns when there maybe isn't enough time to get fully into the turn...That's just speculation though.

Edited by KingCrimson
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My stance is vary by what board i'm riding.

For new tech./race boards (decambered nose and no or little camber in middle), I use 21" stance.

For old toys (huge camber in middle), I use 18-19" stance.

I generally go by a formula that was posted in Extremecarving.com few times.

Recommending Stance = [(Height / 3.5) + (Inseam x 0.6)] / 2

Most importantly, the above is 'Recommending' stance length to start with. Each individual has one's preference on each board..

According to the formula, I should ride at with a 20 inch stance width. For some reason I prefer 17.5", but then again I run 66/60 angles.

At least now I have an excuse for poor riding.

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According to the formula, I should ride at with a 20 inch stance width. For some reason I prefer 17.5", but then again I run 66/60 angles.

At least now I have an excuse for poor riding.

The reason I ride narrow stance on good amount of camber in middle is based on what I found from testing on variety of decks, which comes down to effective ways of bending middle or applying force down to edges, same as 'Gilmour's Bias' or 'Outward Cants', if I understood them correctly. I found newer decks were made with thoughtful decambered/SCR to do those things w/o effort or adjustments.

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