Odd Job Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm "shopping" around for new bindings, and wondered if anyone of you could tell me the difference between the two (both bails). Concerning td2 with the yellow elastometer vs Ibex. I weight 225lbs if that makes any difference to the flex of either bindings. (for example, at a certain load, the flex changes in one binding vs another). And... can Td2 step ins be changed to bail ? (it seems so). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacopodotti Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Hi My weight is more or less 264 lbs and in my opinion Burton Race are the best bindings ever tested, no experience with TD2. They are light, easy with the right flex. Easy to set setup, knowing how. Plastic clip that doesn't wear out your boots Choose the last series or the Ibex/Carve Company Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thin TD2 elastomer gives you very little flex, especially with step-in heels. If you wanted something that can compare to Ibex, you need the Suspension Kit, or upgrade to to TD3 elastomers/center disks. Step-ins can be converted to bail, but you'll need quite a bit of new parts, or trade. Bombers would give you a piece of mind of 6mm bails for your 225lbs. Ibex / Race Plates have the weakest bails. I'd recommend F2 or Snowpro instead. Mind you, I know a local 240lbs guy, who rides only Race Plates and no damage. However, he changes the bails every now and then, before they have the chance to brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacopodotti Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Ibex / Race Plates have the weakest bails. I'd recommend F2 or Snowpro instead. Mind you, I know a local 240lbs guy, who rides only Race Plates and no damage. However, he changes the bails every now and then, before they have the chance to brake. I've never broke a bail in 25 years, it depends in how you tune them. They should be closed with just one hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 how does it compare to td3 elastometers on a td2? (Hope I'm remembering this right, I know someone who did this, I think...). Thin TD2 elastomer gives you very little flex, especially with step-in heels. If you wanted something that can compare to Ibex, you need the Suspension Kit, or upgrade to to TD3 elastomers/center disks. Step-ins can be converted to bail, but you'll need quite a bit of new parts, or trade. Bombers would give you a piece of mind of 6mm bails for your 225lbs. Ibex / Race Plates have the weakest bails. I'd recommend F2 or Snowpro instead. Mind you, I know a local 240lbs guy, who rides only Race Plates and no damage. However, he changes the bails every now and then, before they have the chance to brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 how does it compare to td3 elastometers on a td2? (Hope I'm remembering this right, I know someone who did this, I think...). Still stiffer than the IBEX. However, I feel it is a good tradeoff. I think you will too. Beefy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I also figure, the td2's have much more canting adjustability than the IBEX's? (I only have used the IBEX's once, and from what I can remember, it really wasn't adjustable at all?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Good idea, I forgot you could do that, although I have pretty much come to a conclusion already (Will probably settle on td2's with a td3 elastometer)... especially if.. (the canting on the td2's/td3's are a lot more adjustable than the ibex raceplates.. right? seems on the ibex.. all it did was add lift...)... To convert a step in to a bail configuration, what exactly must be needed? I'm looking at the store and not all parts are available :(, are they interchangable with td1 parts/ (I have td1's currently). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 To convert a step in to a bail configuration, what exactly must be needed? I'm looking at the store and not all parts are available :(, are they interchangable with td1 parts/ (I have td1's currently). you are going the wrong way, most go from standerd to step in. you will need heel bails, which are not interchangeable with your step in toe bails, 2 more sole blocks which are no longer available, toebails with clips, lugs, shoulder bolts...... or you could trade with some one whom wants to convert to step in, or sell the 2's for new 3's, or learn to like your step ins and get the 3 elastomer and center disk. Dont know about th etd1 interchangability, you just might give it a try and see if things line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) TD2 and TD3 are interchangeable (cant discs are the same and TD2 andTD3 bails will work on TD2 and TD3 base plates) TD1 only works with TD1 parts and viceversa Td2 is a major improvement over TD1 and TD3 is very similar to Td2 but with a thicker elastometer (more cushion or a little softer) Sidewinders is another option but more expensive and don't come in step-in (at least not yet. Fin this is your hint) Edited September 28, 2012 by carvingchef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 The problem is, I'm considering buying a used td2, with td3 elastometers and cant discs..., the only "problem" is, it is step in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 you might want to look for a used set of intec heels rather than a set of regular bails for your TD2 (as long as your boots are compatible) most people who switch to step-in don't go back to regular bails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 I need as much flex as I can get, not willing to go to step ins. it seems the lugs might be the same across the td's. Either way it seems I can absorb all if not all of the cost maybe if I sell off my td1's for $50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 If you need as much flex as you want from your bindings, I advise you to stay away from Bombers. Not that they are bad, but the bindings itself have just or no little movement. The only movement you get, is the (little) movement out of the TD3 elastomere. You could consider TD3 Sidewinders but that's still not the same as Ibex/F2. I would go for Ibex or F2 bindings which I did both ride, nice lateral flex. Breakage of bails: Bomber, Ibex, F2: all bails break. I now ride boards with a very small width (14 - 15 cm)were flex isn't that important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odd Job Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Ibex/F2, how are their canting options (would I need it?) i have.. skeletal issues... (knock kneed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) They have: Ibex you can turn the disk, F2 has canting wedges. Should start from zero - zero flat with f2, ride a few days and if that doesn't work out, just change. http://www.carvecompany.com/index.php?id=carvecompany-shop&L=1 canting wedges f2 in the picture Edited September 28, 2012 by Hans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacopodotti Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 http://www.carvecompany.com/index.php?id=single-view&L=1&tt_products%5Bbegin_at%5D=10&tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=25&tt_products%5Bproduct%5D=16&cHash=2a0c4949e3d4802ae66a132ea9e73447 Or if you just want lift you can add a pice of marine plywood under your toe or your heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Remember you can demo bindings at Bomber for a small cost.I would recomend doing this since you are moving to Colorado. I do not know if they demo the I bex binding but they do demo all of the newer Bomber bindings both td3 and side winder. I demoed the sidewinder before I bought it and I think I demoed the td3 as well. Of course the demo would include cant and lift options. Contact Bomber to set this up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 http://www.carvecompany.com/index.php?id=single-view&L=1&tt_products%5Bbegin_at%5D=10&tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=25&tt_products%5Bproduct%5D=16&cHash=2a0c4949e3d4802ae66a132ea9e73447Or if you just want lift you can add a pice of marine plywood under your toe or your heel. Chopping board nylon material is a probably one of the easier to work with materials; just figure out the geometry, and use a rasp to hand fair it, or bribe someone with some tools to grind it to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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