Awesomo12000 Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Well, the season is almost here so I began taking out my gear and while adjusting my bindings (TD3's) I noticed my bail can't be screwed out because it is bent. Should I be concerned about this? Its not loose or anything just stripped. And prior to this so I have not touched it so It was just from riding last season. Also, Im a new carver so If I'm doing something wrong that caused this to happen, help would be appreciated haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Same happened to me. Looks like your lug is damaged. You get new ones here... http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/parts_TD3.cfm http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/TD3_Lug.cfm To remove it, I just got a small screwdriver, wedged it in so the lug shaft wouldn't spin. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awesomo12000 Posted November 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Same happened to me. Looks like your lug is damaged. You get new ones here...http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/parts_TD3.cfm http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/TD3_Lug.cfm To remove it, I just got a small screwdriver, wedged it in so the lug shaft wouldn't spin. Hope this helps. Thanks! Is there anything bad about running it damaged though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Thanks! Is there anything bad about running it damaged though? Not too sure, perhaps check with Fin or Michelle from Bomber first. It might be okay provided the lug shaft screw is tight but I'm not 100% so do so at your own discretion. One end of the lug shaft is squared but the rest is round. It appears the lug is designed to stop it from going through (as it is round). Kinda like trying to get the ol'square peg in a round hole...not gonna happen, which is a good thing in your case. I'd still get confirmation on the safety of riding with it like this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 There should be an allen head on the through shaft that you can remove with an allen wrench which will allow you to remove the heel bail from the binding to check it's condition. I would do this to see what is going on? I think that needs a 4mm wrench. If it is bent enough it could be weak and need replacement.You can unscrew the lugs from the heel bail once it is removed from the binding. Better to check it than to have it break during a hard turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 The lug on mine got damaged when trying to remove the lug shaft to grease it. It was on very tight and I ended up rounding the lug when attempting to loosen the shaft screw. The only way I could eventually get it off was to wedge the screwdriver in as mentioned above and then turn the lug screw. It appears from your photo that it is similar damage so it'll just be a bit more of a pain to remove it when you need to. The rest of the lug shaft should theoretically be fine as it's a pretty tight fit in the block unless something happened when/if you already removed it before. And as snowboardfast said, it's probably best to check everything over regardless just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awesomo12000 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Thanks for all the help, I will probably just be on the safe side and get replacements. Only $16 to replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Bomber Butter? Is it possible that the shaft was frozen and forced to turn? I have seen parts become stuck together and occasionally lubing the shafts, pivot points, bails etc makes everything work freely. Typically if everything is moving freely there isn't enough torque to do this type of damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I've done that a few times. you need to be careful not to overtorque when you tighten up the toe bail, and also maintain some pressure on the flat end of the shaft that goes in the lug. Once you damage the lug, it can be a pain in the ass to get that shaft out of there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 when i got my td3's last week, i completely dissasembled them(all 6 screws:rolleyes:) and cleaned the threads of every nut/bolt, then put the bindings all back together and used blue loc-tite and was careful to not over torque them.since i used blue loc tite, i know my hardware wont be going anywhere.then i put a straight line across the bolt and a flat area on the binding, so if they begin to work there way out, i can visually see it. in my pic you can make out the lines that i marked on every bolt on the bindings...and dont forget, more things get damaged from over tightening them than being not gorrila strength tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilux Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 when i got my td3's last week, i completely dissasembled them(all 6 screws:rolleyes:) and cleaned the threads of every nut/bolt, then put the bindings all back together and used blue loc-tite and was careful to not over torque them.since i used blue loc tite, i know my hardware wont be going anywhere.then i put a straight line across the bolt and a flat area on the binding, so if they begin to work there way out, i can visually see it.in my pic you can make out the lines that i marked on every bolt on the bindings...and dont forget, more things get damaged from over tightening them than being not gorrila strength tight Interesting, good idea. Have you tried this before with good results? I'm constantly fiddling with angles but I suppose this shouldn't make any difference. I wonder if temperature has an effect on the durometer of the e-rings and has a bearing the bolt tightness (thereby misaligning the marked lines)? For example if I get my setup ready in room temperature versus adjusting setup in -10C. Might give it a go regardless. Thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 I put a straight line across the bolt and a flat area on the binding, so if they begin to work there way out, i can visually see it. Clever! Last season my first run of SES found me on top of buttermilk when I discovered the three screws that lock down your binding angles had totally loosened at some point ... an no 5mm hex in sight (doh!). Getting down to the bottom with a loose rear binding angle is no fun, let me tell you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Interesting, good idea. Have you tried this before with good results? I'm constantly fiddling with angles but I suppose this shouldn't make any difference. I wonder if temperature has an effect on the durometer of the e-rings and has a bearing the bolt tightness (thereby misaligning the marked lines)? For example if I get my setup ready in room temperature versus adjusting setup in -10C. Might give it a go regardless. Thanks for the tip! im sure the temp changes the durometer of the e rings, but the only bolts that would move would be the 4 bolts(3 if burton) that connect the td3's to the board.every other bolt is 'hard mounted' sort of speak.ie, no rubber between them and the surface they mount to.but i doubt the durometer changes much in temp..i wouldnt think enough to work the bolts loose. and yes, i use blue loc tite(dont use red!!!!) on all my ski equipment with great results.the temputures do not effect the hold of it at all.but after i set up my bindings, i brought the board in to room temp to help it dry. also, if you need to adjust your bindings and you put loc tite on the bolts, once you pull the bolt out, you can just keep the bolt in the allen and spin it a few times between your fingers to clean out the threads.then re apply loc tite, and re install..granted the best way is to toss them in denatured alcohol(jack daniels works ok at the mountain!) and really clean them off..but thats if you want to be anal about it.ive tried both ways and they both work fine. Clever! Last season my first run of SES found me on top of buttermilk when I discovered the three screws that lock down your binding angles had totally loosened at some point ... an no 5mm hex in sight (doh!). Getting down to the bottom with a loose rear binding angle is no fun, let me tell you haha thats why i started using loc tite and marking the bolts! and now i always keep my allen wrench with me just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 im sure the temp changes the durometer of the e rings, but the only bolts that would move would be the 4 bolts(3 if burton) that connect the td3's to the board. every other bolt is 'hard mounted' sort of speak.ie, no rubber between them and the surface they mount to. but i doubt the durometer changes much in temp..i wouldnt think enough to work the bolts loose. ALL the bolts in TDs are "hard mounted"! The 4 (3 Burton) board mounting screws hard mount the center disk to the board. The plate assembly floats between the e-ring and the flange of the center disk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 ALL the bolts in TDs are "hard mounted"! The 4 (3 Burton) board mounting screws hard mount the center disk to the board. The plate assembly floats between the e-ring and the flange of the center disk. but does the center disk touch the board? i guess thinking about it, it should if it doesnt already..i guess i didnt pay attention to that part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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