Stef1 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I have been toying with the idea of getting a custom built hard boot board and, in terms of specs, wondering if I should opt for a 'carving' board width versus a more 'all-mountain' width. But, here's the thing, when you look at manufacturers' websites the majority of boards tend to be between 18cm and 20cm wide... or you have all mountain models that are >21cm. There are actually very few boards that are between 20 and 21 cm wide (at least within the most common board lengths 165-180cm). Is there a technical reason for this? Is it because a board of this width would be neither a good carving nor a good all mountain board?!? Does anyone know????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Lots of bigger Kesslers are 20.2 to 20.5... However, the true AM width has to do with your boot size and the angles you want to ride. With 26.5 shell I need between 22 and 23.5 to be able to flatten my rear boot angle where I want it for efficient mogul and tree riding. For slush/chop busting, which I do not consider true all-mountain, I'm happy with 21-22 range and steeper rear boot angle. I ride the boards from 12 to 26 wide. They all can carve ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I have had many boards over +20 cm width. I would agree with blueB in the fact that the width is a consideration for boot angles on what you want to ride if you take it off piste. But I have had many sweet carving boards that are over +20... One board thats getting rave reviews is the Virus UFC wide.. its not a pow pow board but is more than capable in soft snow and remarkable on groom.. There was this old saying.. everything works in powder? dunno but my boards did if you just set it up correctly. I even move my angles on my wide boards back to a more aggressive stance if I know Im always going to be on groom that day.. big Canuck mentioned something about a Coiler monster 188 at 23cm wide.. but I wouldn't know much about that.. Just buy what you!!!!! want..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Oh, I just remembered, Oxygen Proton 156 and 160 are 20.5 wide, if you wanted a cheaper board of that spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Kight Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 My custom Kessler just came in. He basically made me his Alpine in a 163 with a ww of 23. I like lower angles. Been riding them like that for 20 plus years. Although I've not ridden it yet, I'm sure it will be one hell of a carving machine, but will allow me to relax a bit and use in softer conditions. All in what floats your boat. I've got a 164 Volkl Spline, and even a my 230 pounds, I think it carves like a dream. This guy has a ww of 24+ if I'm not mistaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideGuy Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I am size 26.5. My all mountains are 23 & 23.5 and my carving boards are 20.5 and 21. I've tried narrower but I don't enjoy the higher angles very much. I like to get my angles as low as the board width will allow me to. Prior started making a wide version of the WCR only a couple years ago. I think F2 has some wider varients now too. Maybe lower angles are becoming more popular? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I have been toying with the idea of getting a custom built hard boot board and, in terms of specs, wondering if I should opt for a 'carving' board width versus a more 'all-mountain' width. But, here's the thing, when you look at manufacturers' websites the majority of boards tend to be between 18cm and 20cm wide... or you have all mountain models that are >21cm. There are actually very few boards that are between 20 and 21 cm wide (at least within the most common board lengths 165-180cm). Is there a technical reason for this? Is it because a board of this width would be neither a good carving nor a good all mountain board?!? Does anyone know????? The primary reason for me is that it's too much work to list boards at every 1mm increment. I'll build whatever width you like for the same price. Other manufacturers have to look at what is most requested and produce special tooling for each length and width. If a certain width fit's 90% of the people close enough, that's what they will produce the tooling for. My manufacturing process is far more flexible, allowing for any length, width, sidecut, or flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebiker Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 FWIW, I ride an AM board with a 26.5 waist width, and it carves just fine. I wear size 14 (31 MP) hard boots and run roughly 50/35 angles. Anything narrower and I get boot out on the rear foot. So, as others have said, the width question is largely driven by foot size and angle preference. Only issue is the board is a bit flexy, so I'll likely be contacting Sean for a custom job in time for next season, with the intention of keeping a similar profile in a stiffer set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 what is your boot size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef1 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Interesting, I had no idea board width was so much a matter of boot size and angle preferences and that for most of you that seems to outweigh any differences in handling characteristics between narrow and wider boards. Not really something you think about with soft-boot riding unless you happen to have particularly huge feet! My boot size is 27.5. Has anyone come across a chart showing ideal board width depending on boot size and binding angle preferences? Might be an interesting tool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Here's a video I put together on sizing waist width: <iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZtsIM88T6A0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Right, it depends on your boot size and what angles you like to ride. If you don't know what angles you like, 55 to 60 is pretty common. A 27.5 boot is most likely a 27.0 shell. For example, I ride size 28 boots, at 60 and 58 degrees on a 21cm wide board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 And with my 26.5 Indies I run 50 / 47 on a 20 waist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tatoos Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Right, it depends on your boot size and what angles you like to ride. If you don't know what angles you like, 55 to 60 is pretty common. A 27.5 boot is most likely a 27.0 shell. For example, I ride size 28 boots, at 60 and 58 degrees on a 21cm wide board. I have a few boards(i`m just a skidder), varying lengths and different widths but always the same stance(53 cm) and angles(60/55) of the same. Is it a bug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 I like 22-22,5 cm wide boards for carving and in part you're right. I think it is more easy for a manufacturer to produce a narrow board about torsional stiffness (important feature for carving and edge hold); in my opinion it is more difficult to produce wide boards with torsional stiffness and longitudinal flex....but it isn'i impossible and on the market there are good carving wide boards (like Donek Blade, Swoard, custom made Tropical Tube, Coiler VSR FC or F2 Vantage) To carve (also lie down turns) with wide boards is important to use a rotational technique and a proper setting (boots and bindings); these boards are slower in the edge-to-edge and more difficul to put in the edge at about 90° than narrow boards but with also a cross-under technique (push-pull) they become incredibly fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 To carve (also lie down turns) with wide boards is important to use a rotational technique and a proper setting (boots and bindings); these boards are slower in the edge-to-edge and more difficul to put in the edge at about 90° than narrow boards but with also a cross-under technique (push-pull) they become incredibly fast. It is not crucial to use rotational technique (which I personally like) on any board width. You can ride any board with rotation, counter-rotation, or just alligned to the stance, depending on your style, prefferences, abillities, or what you are trying to acheive... Same applies to the up-unweighing and down-unweighing (cross-over, cross-under). I would suggest to every student of mine to try and master all of the techniques. For EC, I agree, rotation is quite important, as it is the way to weigh the nose (or tail for that matter) when you are way beyond the point where you can load it by pressure. Wide board feels quicker edge to edge by cross-under for a simple reason: Due to wider geometry (I'm not doing a graph right now), in a cross-over you have to travel slightly more up to efficiently un-weigh the board. Also, you have to put your CM further into the turn to get beyond the edge for the same ammount as on a narrower board. Menwhile, with flatter stance angles on a wide board, the flexion of boddy joints is alligned more across the board, allowing for easier tipping on edge by down-unweighing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 It is not crucial to use rotational technique (which I personally like) on any board width. You can ride any board with rotation, counter-rotation, or just alligned to the stance, depending on your style, prefferences, abillities, or what you are trying to acheive... Same applies to the up-unweighing and down-unweighing (cross-over, cross-under). I would suggest to every student of mine to try and master all of the techniques. For EC, I agree, rotation is quite important, as it is the way to weigh the nose (or tail for that matter) when you are way beyond the point where you can load it by pressure. Wide board feels quicker edge to edge by cross-under for a simple reason: Due to wider geometry (I'm not doing a graph right now), in a cross-over you have to travel slightly more up to efficiently un-weigh the board. Also, you have to put your CM further into the turn to get beyond the edge for the same ammount as on a narrower board. Menwhile, with flatter stance angles on a wide board, the flexion of boddy joints is alligned more across the board, allowing for easier tipping on edge by down-unweighing. I agree! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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