Boots: Check. Bindings: Check. Board: Need suggestions

[icebiker]

Update to the below threads (and thanks again for your advice). Apologies for the long-ish post.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33305

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33546

So, I went for size 31 Track 225s from BOL (good price, too!). Got them molded at my local shop, and they feel great! I took your advice on bindings and bought a pair of Burton Races in good shape to replace my Performance plates. Don't have them yet, but will soon.

So, next up is my board. You guys were right that my current board (Ride Yukon 172W) would only do for a short while, and I'd need to be looking at something more appropriate for true carving. I took my Yukon/Burton Performance/Track 225 set up (with 50F/35R angles) to my local hill, and found that on modest carves, the set up was great. But once I started pushing the carving angle, the board decambered too easily and "hooked" or "oversteered". I don't have the confidence on it with plates/hardboots that I do with softboots/3-strap Torques. So, I'm going to keep the Yukon for softbooting, and am looking for a proper carving board.

Here's where I need your advice. I've read the equipment reviews on BOL, as well as myriad threads, along with websites for Donek, Prior and Coiler. Here are my stats:

1) 6'3", 190 lbs, 31.5 MP boots.

2) 50/35 binding angles.

2) I am not a speed demon (don't like going super fast:o) and typically ride narrow east coast trails, so I turn "C" s at modest speed.

3) I tend to avoid riding on icy days, too. Bit of a packed/soft conditions snob :)

So, I think I am looking for a board with a 10m radius/all-mountain profile, like an Axxess or ATV. Using my current board for reference (172, 136 effective, 32/26/32, 10/9/10 sidecut), my questions are:

a) Assuming an AM board will be stiffer than my Yukon, would getting a board with the same dimensions make sense, or with my height/weight should I be looking at something with a longer effective edge to be able to hold steeper carving angles?

b) Is it fair to assume that my current board's 10/9/10 sidecut radius, on a softer board that decambers too easily with hard boots, actually cuts a shorter radius turn than a stiffer carving/AM board of the same radius? I don't know if I'm asking that question right...I guess I'm saying that I like the way my 10/9/10 radius Yukon turns on softboots, and want to replicate that curve on a hardboot board, so am wondering if I need to consider smaller?/larger?/similar? sidecut on the AM board?

c) Any other boards to consider? (wide-ish AM)

I like the idea of consulting with Donek for a custom set up, but before I do would appreciate any and all advice, as always (how's that for alliteration ;))

[scrutton]

Umm, I'll take a stab at some replies..flame away and correct as needed.

a) Assuming an AM board will be stiffer than my Yukon, would getting a board with the same dimensions make sense, or with my height/weight should I be looking at something with a longer effective edge to be able to hold steeper carving angles?

173cm, 6'3....you can go way bigger if you want. I think that the length helps you hold speed, not sure it makes any difference to holding steeper angles. You can go very low, Euro-carve style on not particularly long boards, I believe - a quick google reveals EC boards are between SL and GS board length which jibes with my memory of the Swoard rack at SES.

b) Is it fair to assume that my current board's 10/9/10 sidecut radius, on a softer board that decambers too easily with hard boots, actually cuts a shorter radius turn than a stiffer carving/AM board of the same radius? I don't know if I'm asking that question right...I guess I'm saying that I like the way my 10/9/10 radius Yukon turns on softboots, and want to replicate that curve on a hardboot board, so am wondering if I need to consider smaller?/larger?/similar? sidecut on the AM board?

Well I guess you'll decamber the Yukon much quicker than the right flex board for you when you get the right board, all things being equal. But, you'll be faster edge to edge, and an alpine board specced for 190 lbs will likely be stiffer than the Yukon so you'll get better edge transfer, instead of board flex. I see where you are going, but 10m is pretty short radius, and normally associated with SL boards. Not sure they make alpine boards with anything much smaller than this.

As this link shows, the faster you go, the smaller circle you can pressure your edge into turning, albeit as I discovered with lots of extra leg pressure required.

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/physics.cfm

c) Any other boards to consider? (wide-ish AM)

I have no clue there. The Schtubby comes to mind given the width you desire. I've never ridden one though. Here's a thread for review :-

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=22722

[Seraph]

There are a couple of Coiler AM's up for sale right now.

[Bora20]

uh-hmm

I have a lovely Prior 4WD 179 for sale that is 21.5cm wide at the waist and has a 10.5m scr. It flat out rails on softer snow and nice groom. Ice, not so much.

I will be replacing it with a short Coiler AMT, but with a larger 12m scr.

I too started out like you and threw plates onto my Ride Antic 160 (9/8/9). I was great for slower carves and soft snow, but once I pushed it more and got it further on edge, it would chatter and I would slide out. Definitely not built for plates and hard carving.

The 4WD has been great and I have ridden a few other boards with plates. I got to demo a 4WD 169 and FLC 173 and I really liked the metal board.

I also have a Prior 168w for softboot riding and it is stiff enough for me. I recently rode a new Ride Highlife 163w with softboots and it was too floppy for me. Stiffer is better in my world.

[MikeC]

Update to the below threads (and thanks again for your advice). Apologies for the long-ish post.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33305

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33546

So, I went for size 31 Track 225s from BOL (good price, too!). Got them molded at my local shop, and they feel great! I took your advice on bindings and bought a pair of Burton Races in good shape to replace my Performance plates. Don't have them yet, but will soon.

So, next up is my board. You guys were right that my current board (Ride Yukon 172W) would only do for a short while, and I'd need to be looking at something more appropriate for true carving. I took my Yukon/Burton Performance/Track 225 set up (with 50F/35R angles) to my local hill, and found that on modest carves, the set up was great. But once I started pushing the carving angle, the board decambered too easily and "hooked" or "oversteered". I don't have the confidence on it with plates/hardboots that I do with softboots/3-strap Torques. So, I'm going to keep the Yukon for softbooting, and am looking for a proper carving board.

Here's where I need your advice. I've read the equipment reviews on BOL, as well as myriad threads, along with websites for Donek, Prior and Coiler. Here are my stats:

1) 6'3", 190 lbs, 31.5 MP boots.

2) 50/35 binding angles.

2) I am not a speed demon (don't like going super fast:o) and typically ride narrow east coast trails, so I turn "C" s at modest speed.

3) I tend to avoid riding on icy days, too. Bit of a packed/soft conditions snob :)

So, I think I am looking for a board with a 10m radius/all-mountain profile, like an Axxess or ATV. Using my current board for reference (172, 136 effective, 32/26/32, 10/9/10 sidecut), my questions are:

a) Assuming an AM board will be stiffer than my Yukon, would getting a board with the same dimensions make sense, or with my height/weight should I be looking at something with a longer effective edge to be able to hold steeper carving angles?

b) Is it fair to assume that my current board's 10/9/10 sidecut radius, on a softer board that decambers too easily with hard boots, actually cuts a shorter radius turn than a stiffer carving/AM board of the same radius? I don't know if I'm asking that question right...I guess I'm saying that I like the way my 10/9/10 radius Yukon turns on softboots, and want to replicate that curve on a hardboot board, so am wondering if I need to consider smaller?/larger?/similar? sidecut on the AM board?

c) Any other boards to consider? (wide-ish AM)

I like the idea of consulting with Donek for a custom set up, but before I do would appreciate any and all advice, as always (how's that for alliteration ;))

My only advice is to make sure you get something wide enough. I ride 29s ontop of Sidewinders and a plate, and still boot out heelside sometimes (21cm boards). I run 60+ angles so the 35 on your back foot concerns me.

You may not get to such an extreme yet but you'll be glad you're prepared if the time ever comes.

[icebiker]

Thanks for the info folks.

Bora: Yep, I had checked out your board actually before my post. Looks great, but me thinks given my big feet and modest angles it'll be a bit narrow for me.

MikeC: I hear you on the width. With my Yukon (26 cm waist), I'm Ok with softboots, and probably would need to turn my rear foot inward a bit (raise my angle to say 45) to eliminate boot out on toe turns (heelsides are ok). Hence, I think I need something at least as wide as an Prior ATV, or perhaps a custom Donek. I'll keep browsing and will probably give the guys at Donek a call.

Thanks

[D.T.]

I have a 182cm Donek Nyberg Axxess that I would consider selling. It has a 22cm waist and 12m SCR. The specs are on Donek's site. Send me a PM if you are interested.

[Jack M]

Donek Blade. Or custom Coiler or custom Prior.

IMO the sidecut radius of nearly all all-mtn carving boards (Axxess, 4WD, etc) is too short for both carving and not carving.

[Ear dragger]

Don't let the low angles dictate the board you buy. You can adjust. I'm not saying that a 17 waist is for you, but a 19.5 waist is still wide and stable. do what you think is best but If you want a carving board, get one. a 4wd (or similar) is just not gonna hold the edge like a real carving board will (I'm sure people will disagree). upper 170's with a 10.5 or so sidecut would be a nice way to go(coiler fc or similar). buy a used board or two. people give great stuff away on the classifieds. you can always sell something you don't like. that way you can try some different brands, instead of throwing down a g on a custom. Wait on the custom. with my experience, custom is something you want to do when you are certain about what you like.

If you are set on having a wide carving board, then maybe the swoard is for you. hope you find what you're looking for.