BlueB Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Came out quite good, considering the pretty basic tools I used. I immediatelly noticed that I can tighten the wheels a lot more! I started with 2 pairs of cheap ones to practice. I think I'm ready for my slalom ones now. I might even attempt cutting a 125 Randal to 105ish, Sk8kings style... No, I do not have a lathe in my living room :D . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arclite Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 this brought up a question I had a while ago. I noticed on the MHS site that they will face your hangers for free. What is the benefit? And is that really what sk8kings does to bennetts and randals, just lathe the hanger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Hey Julian, sharp eye! You reckognised the Vampire just from the nose pic! I have her dialed in really nicelly. Turns like a deamon, even on those 160 no-name trucks (lot of customisation, though) - I can make it through a small HS type course! Facing the hangers make a lot of sense. Look at the cheap (and some not so cheap) cast hangers - the end of it is normally a mess, out of square to axles, mold release lines visible, etc. This pushes your bearings out of alignment and they want to lock, then you have to realease 1/4 to 1/2 turn, just to get them spinning properly. Then they start wobling on the 5/16" axles (bearing is 8mm i/d, too big for the production axles). Once faced, the bearing sits nicelly and providing that you have bearing spacers, you can crank a lot more. The last face I did is soo good that I can go ful-tight on that wheel and it still spins. Next bennefit, if you did it like in my pics, with a small rim around the axle (which also has to be true), you dont need the speedring. Yeah, that's what Sk8kings do. However, they cut it really short, so you can get various axles lenghts, by spacing it, out of the same hanger. So, their Skandal is 106, but you still can make it 126, by adding a 10mm spacer on either side. TS to GS setup in a few minutes! Im pretty sure I'll do a Randal for myself as a rear truck. If you guys have a press drill, you can do the facing. That's all I used - press drill, a snowboard file, an old chissel and a bit of sandpaper... I'll buy few better files and sharpen my chissel, then you'll see some real "precission work :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arclite Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I recognized the wood and the edge of the grip tape :o Well I crank down all my axles, even my bennetts. Of course I'm using spacers and rings, but it spins fine in my opinion. Press drill? I'm sure Andrea will say if we have one or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 BB, Thanks for that explaination of the benefits of facing. That makes a lot of sense to me and I want to do that to my Randall's. I don't have access to a drill press that I can think of, but you have me wondering if some careful filing/dressing might give similar results. If you care to, would you share your process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Don't file by free hand. Whole idea is to make the face of the hanger square to the axle and smooth. You could make a simple tool to be used with ordinarry drill, like this: http://pavedwave.myfastforum.org/about1034.html I'll try to shoot few pics of my drill press method, tonight. Easier than explaining it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skully Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I'll try to shoot few pics of my drill press method, tonight. Easier than explaining it. Awesome looking work Boris! Can't wait to see the pics. (I use the counter-bore method, so no permanent speed rings, but it gets the job done.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Disclaimer: No one should try to do this - it can lead to serious injury and/or damage to the goods! This is just an illustration of how I did it. I'm not telling anyone else to do it, or that it's safe. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Disclaimer: No one should try to do this - it can lead to serious injury and/or damage to the goods! This is just an illustration of how I did it. I'm not telling anyone else to do it, or that it's safe. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Skully, Just for the others, who do not have the mashinery, shoot a photo of the counter-bore method. Btw, how you managed to find one with 5/16" or 8mm i/d? Every single one I've seen was bigger... Maybe post the part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skully Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Skully,Just for the others, who do not have the mashinery, shoot a photo of the counter-bore method. Btw, how you managed to find one with 5/16" or 8mm i/d? Every single one I've seen was bigger... Maybe post the part number? "Offical" terminology for the tool would be: Interchagneable Pilot Type Counterbore. Purchased here: Enco - 5/16" Interchangeable Pilot Counterbore When simply facing / truing up hangers, the methodology is simple. Remove wheel. Place counterbore over axle with cutting flutes against hanger. Twist a few times with yer hand. (A drop or two of cutting oil or some such liquid is a good idea too.) If you want to remove larger ammounts of hanger, to shorten it for slalom use for example, then you've gotta remove the hanger from the board / baseplate and chuck it up in a drill or drill press. Toss the counterbore into a vice, or some other sort of device to hold onto it tightly. Line up the drill / hanger / axle / counterbore, add liberal ammounts of oil, start the hanger spinnin' and you can probably figure out the rest.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullwings Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Wow, I definitely don't have to tools for that... I think i'm just gonna go invest in some Sk8kings trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arclite Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Wow, I definitely don't have to tools for that... And/or - time/patience/skill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullwings Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 And/or - time/patience/skill The first two I have and can squeeze out here and there, the third one is severly lacking.:o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Y'all have yet to find the beauty in stacking up fiber-reinforced plastic washers in place of speedrings and facing! They get squished square because they are so soft. Lazy solution, but it really works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 I'll try to shoot few pics of my drill press method, tonight. Easier than explaining it. Nice work B. I'll use the "sandpaper and glue" method, or see if I can locate a drill press. I like results of your method better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hey B, Here's my crude, but simple version of a hanger face tool. It's not as elegant or effective as with a drill press, but it does pretty good at making a flatter face on the truck. It still requires separate speed rings however. Assembly is (from top to bottom): 1) 60 grit sandpaper 2) Gorilla glue 3) washer with 5/16" hole 4) Gorilla glue 5) cupped washer Glue/clamp it up. Slip this on the axle and place a small skateboard wheel on top. I used my palm on the wheel to press and turn. The cupped washer seems to grip the side of the wheel enough to spin the sandpaper washer assembly. As you can see the sandpaper pretty much wore out with one set of trucks, so maybe a higher quality sandpaper would be in order. I suppose an O shaped grinding stone would do best with this concept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I've been using one of these for a few years. I have faced all my trucks and a bunch of my friends trucks I have turned down a couple of Benett 4.5's for friends to use slaloming...it's a very worthwhile investment if you plan to skate for anytime....for the record the infamous Geezer X pointed me in the direction this very counterbore "Offical" terminology for the tool would be: Interchagneable Pilot Type Counterbore.Purchased here: Enco - 5/16" Interchangeable Pilot Counterbore When simply facing / truing up hangers, the methodology is simple. Remove wheel. Place counterbore over axle with cutting flutes against hanger. Twist a few times with yer hand. (A drop or two of cutting oil or some such liquid is a good idea too.) If you want to remove larger ammounts of hanger, to shorten it for slalom use for example, then you've gotta remove the hanger from the board / baseplate and chuck it up in a drill or drill press. Toss the counterbore into a vice, or some other sort of device to hold onto it tightly. Line up the drill / hanger / axle / counterbore, add liberal ammounts of oil, start the hanger spinnin' and you can probably figure out the rest.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavechaser Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 I agree - Enco - 5/16" Interchangeable Pilot Counterbore - best tool for the job. Bear in mind that if you have 5/16" instead of 8mm axles, that even with faced hangars the wheels can end up not truely aligned due to the twist possible between the bearing and axle...but it IS better than nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 More truck engineering: Bennett 5.0, chopped to 4.3 with bearing "seats", still spaceable back to 5+. Btw, I found a new, quick way to remove big portion of the hanger, using the drill-press, without endless grinding/spin filing from the face. No expensive counterbore needed. Then, spherical bearing installed. I simply ground the bushing seat with Dremmel and spindle sanding tool, but very preciselly. It heated up a bit, so I just pushed the bearing in on "hot" and it settled in tight. I leveled and secured with ordinary epoxy, rather then JB Weld - epoxy is more liquid, so you can drip it in and it would still flow to self-level, while JB you have to smear. Plus, if I ever needed to remove the bearing, I can just dump the truck in boiling water, as cheap epoxy lets go on way lower temp then JB... The difference in ride is unbelievable! I had the same board through a HS course, multiple times, with an ordinary Bennett and the other one with spherical conversion. Huuuge differnece, more power, less flop, less dive, more precission, more confidence, resulting in more speed. Even people watching, could see more speed and aggression! Next, the ball-pin to replace the pivot... Or maybe put a spherical into Randal first? Decissions, decissions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullwings Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Awesome job Boris It makes me want to try that stuff on my Randal 125s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted July 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 Just a quick follow up on my epoxy technique: - After quite a bit of riding on uneven surface (brick paving), the bearing worked itself loose from the epoxy. - Removal tacktics worked - it was enough to put the hanger into boiling wter to soften and remove the epoxy. - I replaced it with PC Weld metal paste. It sets hard like a rock. Works like a charm. Photos to follow. Other than that, I did a bunch spherical conversions of Bennetts now, for Roy, Doug and all of mine. I also did a Randal 125 into 110 and added spherical - much harder then on Bennetts. From a the test ride yesterday, I'm not even sure if the spherical is needed on the rear truck. Also for the people intersted into cutting down their Randals 125, do not go shorter than 112. I went 108 first and that started exposing the ribbed part of the axle cast into aluminum. I had to re-face the hanger with permanent steel washers, to cover the ribs again, end product being about 110-111... Photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted July 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 Here it goes, photos: . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Ball-pivot and spherical... Hanger still has to be trimmed and shouldered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarvingScooby Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Ball-pivot and spherical... Good work Bro! :biggthumpThe spherical already ROCKs... and now the Ball-pivot will be the STAR GOG & RADIKAL user already acknowledge this Bennett-spherical upgrade beats both of 'em Hanger still has to be trimmed and shouldered. Can't wait this weekend for the test run... RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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