Michael Pukas Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I'm no tuning guru, especially when it comes to edges. I've got a couple goob tools that I use that sorta get the job done, but I wanna step up my edge tuning. The question I've got is re: the correctly angled side edge bevel tool. Do I want a 92, or an 88, or 2 degree side edge bevel? How is the angle determined - what is the plane of reference? What's the best technique/procedure for edges and what files/stones are needed? I'm not really picky, and I usually just do a diamond stone to clean up the burrs and then a file to sharpen. I don't get into polishing w/ a stone (especially not with all the rocks on the snow @ A-Basin today - not worth the effort to me). Base edge bevel seems straight forward - 0.5 is fine enough. Cheers! mpp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ososinsk Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 This has what you're looking for- http://www.racewax.com/category/tuning_tips.edge_tuning/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sultan Guy Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Lots of information at Tognar.com on this. 88 side and 2 side are the same thing. Just depends on the reference. I use a fixed 2 degree side that I can clamp various files or stones to as I need. File one direction only. Stones you go back and forth with cutting fluid. Works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 You especially need to get into polishing the edge with a stone if there are rocks out. It will harden the edge a bit. The polish isn't about sharpness, it's about hardness and making the tune last. I use a 91 and I vary the base bevel from 1 degree under foot to about 3 at the tip and tail. Makes for a nice clean release and it's less hooky to start. You need to play with that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairywater Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Speaking of edge honing, the best and cheapest system I came across was the "scary sharp" method using 3M 'sandpaper'. While I used it exclusively for plane blades and chisels, it is simple to adapt for polishing edges on boards, using existing edge guides. You will not get a shaper edge: period. You can get comparable results, if you spend a small fortune in water/diamond/Arkansa stones, and have apprenticed with some Japanese water stone ninja. It may be overkill, but I'm sure there are some race tuners's that would like to explore the system. The original thread that started it can be found here: http://www.woodbutcher.net/scary.shtml There are videos, and many more pages relating to its application to woodworking on the net. Just google "scary sharp". Buy some band aids, your edges will be ...scary sharp!:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 Speaking of edge honing, the best and cheapest system I came across was the "scary sharp" method using 3M 'sandpaper'. While I used it exclusively for plane blades and chisels, it is simple to adapt for polishing edges on boards, using existing edge guides. You will not get a shaper edge: period. You can get comparable results, if you spend a small fortune in water/diamond/Arkansa stones, and have apprenticed with some Japanese water stone ninja. It may be overkill, but I'm sure there are some race tuners's that would like to explore the system. The original thread that started it can be found here: http://www.woodbutcher.net/scary.shtml There are videos, and many more pages relating to its application to woodworking on the net. Just google "scary sharp". Buy some band aids, your edges will be ...scary sharp!:eek: That looked interesting, so I'm starting to do some experiments. I bought some 3/16 thick flat aluminum extrusion about 1.5 inches wide, cutting it into 4.5 inch lengths. Cut up some 60,120,180,&400 wet & dry paper, and spray glued it to the aluminum blocks. Used these blocks with a side edge guide as I would a file. In five minutes I had a finish that would have taken ages with a diamond file. Very impressive. I maybe rushed the coarser grades a little, but I can see the potential for easy mirror finish edges. BobD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrCR Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 You can get comparable results, if you spend a small fortune in water/diamond/Arkansa stones That's actually the route I took. Not too expensive from Artech. I had a cheap concave board at the time (all my 'good' boards are convex ), so I just sanded it for a bit until I had about 1.5" perfectly flat area near the edges, put on a 1/87 tune via file, diamond, diamond finer, polishing stone, polishing stone finer. Totally geeked out over it. Looked like a perfect mirror. Too bad it was my cheap foam board but cause its edges handled the icepack like nothing else. Actually got a lot of shocked stares, but that may be do to HBing itself. Did put a gash in my weak-side boot when I propped up my board when on the lift though. It's been in the closet since I bought my Donek Axis second hand. My next buy will be concave or no sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairywater Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 The 3m paper in the higher grits is the shnitz, Lee Valley carries them. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=33004&cat=1,43072 Have look through a loop at the finished edge vs. what you normally ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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