Xpedite Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Hi, guys. With my precious Clicker supply finally drying up, I am going to try hardboots again. (Because I still can't stand the pre-historic soft-binding tech.) I tried a few years ago but boots too small and a board too stiff made it a miserable experience. So my new set-up has arrived. I went soft and (very) short to ease into this for the rest of the season before I order a more expensive board. I got Track 225s, F2 Intech RS bindings, and a 154 F2 Speedcross board. I'm 5'9'', 145 lbs. I know the board is short but I thought it would work to learn on. I want to try it all out tomorrow but I'm lost on what stance angles and width to start with. 30 at the back, 50 at the front felt ok but I know that is less than most use. Suggestions? Should I use the fat heel shim or the inward shim at the front? I'm clueless. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heroshmero Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Hey a Clicker guy... I love them too! Alpine stance is above 45 and 45. Try closer to 60 if the board is narrow enough to still have your toes and heels close to the edges of the board. Also, try heel lift only in the back and maybe toe lift in the front. Don't cant either foot unless they don't feel comfortable. Right now I'm running 60 and 60 with 3 degrees of back heel lift. Jack Michaud has a great article on binding setup: http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/seperate_zee_knees.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 The default stance to start with is to put your toes and heels as close to the edge without hanging over. This may result in parallel angles, and that is fine, but you may want to go 5 degrees steeper on the front foot. Then give yourself some toe lift on the front foot and heel lift on the back foot with no cant. Again, default. Experiment from there. There is some more info on getting started in the links below. Good luck and welcome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Not to dispute Jack because he knows his chit, but personally I would disregard overhang and ride whatever angles feel comfortable. If that is 30deg Front and 25deg back then so be it. Once you get comfortable there then bump it up to 35F/30R. Then once comfortable go 40F/35R. The small steps between each change will be less noticable and you'll be more confident taking the baby steps. Or just go straight to 45deg + and force yourself to figure it out. The worst part of learning to ride hardboots for me was jumping straight into steep angles. Going from softboot stances straight to 50deg+ angles was painful and ackward. You will not likely be making turns where overhang will really factor anyways... Just another opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 sure, you can do that. once you start to feel yourself booting out is when it's time to up the angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 For stance width, take the inseam measurement from some jeans (jeans that fit, mind you - not baggypantsaggycrotch crap) and multiply that by 0.6. It'll get you in the ballpark. I agree with what both Jack and RDY_2_Carve said. If lower angles are easier to get used to, then lower angles are great. Until boot-out happens. Then higher angles are better. Also, don't sweat it too much. If your stance is comfortable, your stance is correct enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xpedite Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Thanks for the advice. How about the lean settings on the boots? I'm thinking the front should be more vertical and the back leaned forward....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveInOregon Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 sure, you can do that. once you start to feel yourself booting out is when it's time to up the angles. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- I kinda agree with the expert ( J M ) here, I started out with a race degree and ended up miserable for the 1st day I just couldn't even ride hardly at all that 1st day. I went back to a typical soft ride stance luckily I was on a "wide" all mountain 176cm board, but after a day or two and that beginning to be was a waist too, so I then "gradually" went more & more forward after boot-out caught up with me ( as J M mentioned ) and I got some runs under my belt and the boot out went away and now I am "almost" at a race / carve degree (tho non parallel) :) I jumped in green ( this Xmas ) with an aggressive-experienced riders alpine stance and got waxed, backed off and now I am doing fine. hope this reply from a nu-B was also helpful ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrob Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Stance width: "inseam"? Can anyone tie that measurement down to something less variable? I.e. from where to where exactly..e.g. to where legs join (tackle swept aside?) from ankle bone along the leg, or direct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideGuy Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Stance width:"inseam"? Can anyone tie that measurement down to something less variable? I.e. from where to where exactly..e.g. to where legs join (tackle swept aside?) from ankle bone along the leg, or direct? From just below your crotch to just below your ankle bone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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