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What is overall height/stack height between Catek OS2/D3 & TD3? How do they compare?


snovvman

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With no lift/cant, does anyone know the height of TD3 and Catek OS2 w/ D3? I looked and looked but found no data regarding how high the interface sits from the board surface.

I've read countless posts comparing TDx & Cateks, but have not seen a comparison between the OS2/D3 & TD3. I know TD3 & OS2/D3s are relatively new. I like the adjustability of Cateks but I also like Bomber because it's Bomber.

One factor of concern is how high (distance from board to boot) TD3s puts the rider. I like the feeling of being closer to the board and I don't know if OS2 will offer this without comparitive data. At the same time, I do like the TD3's isolation strategy.

I'd appreciate any input on this subject.

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I found this thread:

http://www.catek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=112

It seems like the TD2 is 39mm from board to toe/heel block, while the OS2 is 32-33mm. I read that TD2 and TD3 have the same net stack height. Can somone please confirm that board to toe block is ~39mm?

I'd much appreciate it if someone can post some 0-degree TD3 side pictures.

Thanks!

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the cateks are not much higher with the d3 and with cateks you can increase the stack height if you want, you can a lot if you use the big king pin.....

I have no idea why the td2 and 3 would have th same stack height, maybe the same if you use a suspension kit with the td2.

I could be missing something though.

why do you care so much?

there are other aspects of the bindings that make a much bigger difference.

you like feeling closer to the board but honestly that's a bad argument due to a crappy trade off because the td3 isolates you from a lot of chatter that goes on.

this is good, the cateks do this to a lesser extent but still do.

if you want close to the board go with burton/ibex

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Thanks for your reply. With hard boots' inherent thick sole added to an overall stack height, it is not a ride I particularly enjoy. I find that standing to the board allows me to have better board feel and control.

That said, I like the TD3's suspension system and easy install/removal/transfer while the OS2's adjustability is very nice. The Bomber's extra stack height is unattractive, but so is the complexity of install/removal/transfer of the OS2.

I see that you have a set of OS2s on sale. I will send you an email about that.

Does Burton still make plates? Intec? I will take a look at Ibex. How is F2?

Cheers.

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If you want to ride flat, the OS2's will go really low, just use the short kingpin bolt and stack the washers on top of the plate, not under........just stacked one up and it looks like 34mm from board surface to top of binding (with elastomer).

Or just don't use any washers, short kingpin and get 4 extra short set screws from Catek and you have a very very low binding in the OS2, even with the D3, still with some cant/lift adjustment. Overall it is just slightly higher than a Ibex/Burton plate.

I wouldn't say I like being close to the board with a low binding but I don't like a really high binding in most conditions. The OS2 gives you the ability to pick. Many many options.

I used to loath Cateks due to how complicated assembly was, how high they had to be and difficult matching angle cant/lift adjustment were. But it is mostly all fixed in the OS2 design. I was really won over by them this year and can transfer setups from one install to another with minor issues.

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If you want to ride flat, the OS2's will go really low, just use the short kingpin bolt and stack the washers on top of the plate, not under........just stacked one up and it looks like 34mm from board surface to top of binding (with elastomer).

Thank you for taking the time to meaure. Do you have the long or short plate?

On the washers, I presume they are the "spacers" as described by Catek? My understanding is that the kingpin mounts directly over the plate (with an o-ring between) and one would only add spacers to add room for cant/lift? I am having trouble visualizing how (or why) the spacer would need to be _above_ the plate.

Thanks again.

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short kingpin and get 4 extra short set screws from Catek.

With this, I presume Catek does not come with enough short set screws to support both bindings riding in the "low" configuration?

I used to loath Cateks due to how complicated assembly was, how high they had to be and difficult matching angle cant/lift adjustment were. But it is mostly all fixed in the OS2 design. I was really won over by them this year and can transfer setups from one install to another with minor issues.

That is one element of concern. I see that OS2 addressed the repeatability issue, but it still seems a pain to disassemble and transfer when compared to a TD3. As far as I can tell, one must remove the kingpin, then the power plate, then the disc, along with all the hardware, o-ring(s), and spherical nut.

With the TD3, assuming the blocks are out of the way, it's just the four binding plate screws. Is my understanding incorrect?

Thank you.

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If you need more short set screws that you use to get lift/cant they can be purchased at any good hardware store in the bulk washers/bolts/little pieces section.

I don't use the spacers on my OS2's/FR2's - just be very careful not to bottom out your kingpin. 3 to 4 1/2 threads engaged is what I feel for. 6+ threads and you'll be close to getting your top sheet - your mileage may vary.

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With this, I presume Catek does not come with enough short set screws to support both bindings riding in the "low" configuration?

By default a set of OS2s come with 4 long and 4 short set screws which by default give you toe/heel lift. You can back the long set screws back enough that you can get the binding as low as having 4 set screws. it's just you might have boot interference is you want to go as low as it seems you wish too. Thus I'd recommend getting 4 extra shorts.

That is one element of concern. I see that OS2 addressed the repeatability issue, but it still seems a pain to disassemble and transfer when compared to a TD3. As far as I can tell, one must remove the kingpin, then the power plate, then the disc, along with all the hardware, o-ring(s), and spherical nut.

With the TD3, assuming the blocks are out of the way, it's just the four binding plate screws. Is my understanding incorrect?

Thank you.

Actually I used to think it didn't get simpler than TD1s 4 screws (sans dics to board). But with the OS2 all you need to do is back out the 4 set screws 3/4 a turn and then you can hand loosen the kingpin generally, if not it's low torque to take it out. Then you simply drop that plate on another board, with the disc and powerplate mounted already, tighten the kingpin and back the set screws in 3/4 a turn and you are done. It sounds more complex here then it really is in practice. It is simpler than TD1s 4 screws, or even TD3s 3 screws.

Even if you are moving the powerplate in this case it is still simpler.

Not to mention on hill lift/cant microadjustment is a HUGE plus. I thought I was 6/6 Bomber cant discs for years. Only with OS2s did I realize I was anything but. More like 8* rear/2* front with outward cant in the rear and 0 cant up front.

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I think you guessed it already, I use the spacers on top of the plate to stop the kingpin from bottoming out. But if you use the short kingpin you should be OK with no spacers (I'd mock it up off the board to check and be sure).

Sometimes Catek ships extra short adjustment screws, or I think they do because I have a few of them kicking around.

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