two_ravens Posted March 14, 2008 Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 Beginning carver here, having all kinds of fun my Donek SL152 with an 8.2m scr. But the other board in my budding quiver is a 171 custom Prior with a 13.5m scr. I'm small, 125#, so that's a pretty big board for me and a big transition from the zippy little Donek. Turn initiation seems to be most challenging for me on the Prior. Any suggestions or thoughts on what I need to do differently on the longer board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted March 14, 2008 Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 Wow, that is a beastie!! I only recently got to the 173, and I'm way bigger than you! When I was riding the 177 at SES, I made the mistake for the first couple of runs of thinking I could turn it same radius as my Axxess. Which I couldn't, of course ... first thing to remember, it needs real estate. So if it wants to use the slope, let it. You're simply not going to be able to turn it as tight as a little SL board, and that's OK. It's just a different way of riding. Second thing, you are going to need some speed to get it going. Speed is your friend with a bigger board, and while this is terrifying at first, you learn very quickly that the trust you put in the board is repaid in kind with the longer effective edge and extra stability. So don't be afraid to go down the fall line before you carve. Third, with the turn initiation - on the longer board you need to get up on edge before you try to turn, or it's going to run off across the hill on you and build up an insane amount of fast. Pressure the edge when you initiate your turn - on the heelside, concentrate on rocking back on those heels and getting the edge in before you start to turn, and on toeside, stand on the tippytoes and press the knees to the snow. With your weight you'll have to learn to stand on the edges pretty hard. Have fun on it! Once you go longer, you never go back - my 156 terrifies me now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twelsch42 Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 Pressure the edge when you initiate your turn - on the heelside, concentrate on rocking back on those heels and getting the edge in before you start to turn, and on toeside, stand on the tippytoes and press the knees to the snow. The idea of getting your heel edge before you start the turn was key for my heelsides. The way I thought of it was that I needed to get my edge - or begin my carve - when my board was almost flat. Then ride it out to get my board up at an angle. It takes some finesse to smoothly begin the carve. I have about 4 days on my new-to-me 192 tanker. It's been a blast so far. (thanks TVR!) twelsch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galen Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 It may be more of an issue of being to stiff rather then too long or larger sidecut. I've got a too stiff 165, 11m sc board that I can hardly ride mounted in the sweet spot. I moved the bindings back 1cm and it's a little more reasonable. My 168, 13m sc is a breeze as it was made for someone closer to my weight. I guess what I'm trying to say is flex has more to do with turning then length or sidecut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_ravens Posted March 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 Fortunately my Prior was made for someone exactly my weight, so it has a pretty soft flex. When I actually get it into a turn, it's super sweet (and yes Allee, it does want a bit more real estate!) - it's just getting the turn started that gives me fits. I'll try a bit more speed, and focus on edging first then turning.... Thanks for the advice guys and gals! Appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 Time seems to make boards shorter. The more you ride, the shorter long boards feel. In a couple of years, if you get out a lot that 13.3M sc will feel like a slalom board. BobD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Prokopiw Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 Longer Boards Rule!!! Go Diablo! Rotate the hips and spine after edge engagement not to get into or to cause edge engagement.This allows you to change the shape of the turn after you initiate the turn.More expressive and a lot of fun on the Diablo188 to focus on this tactic. Disclaimer;no jib bonkers were harmed during the completion of this experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinecure Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 You need speed and patience. You can also try loading the front of the board more in turn initiation to get the front to snap more in transitioning from edge to edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 drive your knees, drive your knees and drive your knees. K, no offense intended, but at 8.2m SCR on the Donek, all you have to do is put it on edge and in an instant the board has turned 90*. :) I am reminded of this every time I get on my slalom board. Going from an 8.2m SCR to a 13.5m is a big jump so be patient, we are going through the same thing with Shelly going from a 7.8m to a 11.5m. It will take you a little while to make the transition. The best advice I can give is, make sure you have some open real estate on a run you know well, get some speed and drive your knees into each turn. If you watch the Monarch Invasion video, starting at 00:10 Inkaholic does a great job coming in low on a heel side, rising up in the transition and driving hard into the toe side. In that video sequence, he was on a super narrow section of groom (~2 groomer widths wide) on a Black run riding a 18.5m SCR 185cm SG Race. My point being, driving the knees will get the nose to initiate and start to decamber the board. <object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7VCY_jXlx0&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7VCY_jXlx0&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 PS - what is your boot flex like? What is your range of motion? If your boots are too stiff (especially at ~125#) you might not be able to drive your knees forward very well. I am a huge fan of the BTS kit, then there are other people like John Gilmore who have completely switched over to softer shells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_ravens Posted March 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 drive your knees, drive your knees and drive your knees.K, no offense intended, but at 8.2m SCR on the Donek, all you have to do is put it on edge and in an instant the board has turned 90*. :) I am reminded of this every time I get on my slalom board. D.T., No offense taken! :D That's what I love about the little Donek - it makes carving super easy when I'm doing things right, and doesn't beat me up when I mess up. (And it's so amazingly pink!) But I think I better get my skills in order before I take the Prior out for another spin - still healing from a little concussion that I acquired on my first run with it. (But then again, I may ride better with brain damage - I took it for 2 more runs right after bonking my head, and did a lot better, including a sweet carved 270 - someday I'll hit a 360 with this board....!) Re: boot flex - Very flexy Raichle 124's with BTS yellow springs. Still working on fit though, as I have a ridiculous amount of heel left even after getting thermo liners. But I think I really can't blame anything on equipment - it's my skills that need work! Good luck to Shelly with her longboarding! And thanks to everyone for the words of wisdom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 YEP! Weight forward and low, more speed, OPEN trail, and paitence. Slower, longer turns. Think of attacking the hill, not just riding on it. Cool video D.T.! Guess the run was too narrow for the Custom eh. You guys ever plan on getting out to the SF bay area get a hold of us. The guest loft awaits. Give Shelly a hug, and Gretchen say's Hi! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspercarver Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 you should take your boots over to Hoback Sports and tell them about the heel lift. two weeks ago i had the exact same problem. they glued onto my liner a piece of dense foam above my heel. no more heel lift. there is a drastic difference in my snowboarding now. it didn't cost much either.:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cafercr35 Posted March 16, 2008 Report Share Posted March 16, 2008 I had the same issue at beginning of year with riding a larger board. After advise from WB - my 185 donek fc turns just like my madd 170:biggthump:biggthump:biggthump here is the linky to the help he gave me, scroll down to post #7: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=18985 also the heel lift thing.......i had this problem also....i cut a mustache looking pc out of some 1/8"-1/4" dense foam and duct taped it to the outer part of my liner heel - it gave a pinch to the achilles tendon and assisted in holding my heel down. Completely changed my edge hold. Good luck..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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