trikerdad Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I bent my custom Donek FCII ( the one I won at SES '06) about a week ago. I had a plex plate on it even though it's not metal. After bending two Coilers and a Prior, I was trying to prevent bending the Donek. I hit a soft spot on the edge of the groomed and that was it. All of them bent at the front set of inserts, the ones I never use. If I ever order another custom board, it will only have one set of inserts in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 I am using lexan plates on my Prior but I didn't like what they did to the ride of my Coiler metals so I went to TD2 suspension kits. I surely don't ride as hard as Bordy but I'm not a wimp either. I am keeping a close eye on things no problems yet, if anything bad happens Bruce will be the first to know followed by a public service announcement. What didn't I like about them on the Coiler? they seemed to stiffen the mid section in a way that was noticeable. Yes, pea-under-the-mattress, but after spending $$$ on my boards I'll be damed if I am not going to enjoy them to the fullest, and while I'm sure Bordy could cause damage in a single run, I haven't yet. Bordy, if you come to OES, bring your own plates so you can try some new Coiler goodies :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Don't ask me I don't have a clue:DTime will be the only factor to truly tell on this but there are plenty factors involved . The topsheet has to provide obvious protection but I have yet to scientifically figure how much better it is. When building this way you can also put the materials on top of the metal and this seems to help. If a board dents it should not necessarily mean the end of the board. When the dent ripples out and lifts, then its done. The rippling off depends on the bond strength between the materials and that is a tough one to put a figure on. I assemble with what I feel the best possible odds of the thing staying together. Wood density is another major factor as if you are using a core with softer sections and they line up with a pressure point, thats a recipe for unhappiness! I upped the core density but am not spot reinforcing, I have done this for some test stuff very successfully but it is a lot more tinkering to add the strength in the binding area. With my boards this is what I have been recommending. Cateks need the plates. Bombers have shown no concerns but the plate wouldn't hurt. F2s seem to be pretty easy on the boards and I use them without plates Not trying to piss anyone off but it is simply a factor of the stiffer the binding the more likely you will need the protection. In the early days I did have concerns with the rippling away from the binding area and those issues have been addressed but only time and daily pounding will tell the truth. Now you know why I took so long to get the stuff finalized! So if anyone experiences any issue please let me and others know asap so we can all take necessary action. It all so new, there will be a learning time for all involved. BV Hey BV, As a user my primary concern is not to void my warranty. So it sounds like I need to use my F2's or add a riser/suspension kit to my TD2's. So far, so good with JUST TD2's...and I've been carving harder on my AM-T than ANYTHING I've ridden before... JPW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Varsava Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 To be honest we are all somewhat of the Guinea pigs and if something arises all we can do is alert others and take necessary actions on all our parts. The boards work awesome so it is just a matter of time till it gets sorted out but then again, it may be all good as is. Its just basics to follow at this point Light rider, softer bindings= less worries Heavy rider stiff bindings = more worries. All the area between is somewhat gray . Then again, most of us surely know there are equipment punishers out there who seem to destroy anything and they don't have to be heavy! Thats a whole different story. Of course I don't want to sell boards that have to be used with specific bindings as there is good hardware out there that works well and is already owned by the riders. All we can do is keep an eye on the boards, if a problem arises, address it as required. Since I finalized my construction and let the metal boards out in numbers this season, I have yet to have an issue with anything and I'm sure there has been some good mileage put on them so thats a positive result for sure. As you can imagine, it would be somewhat scary to let all these boards out if you are not pretty sure they are going to survive as if stuff really started to blow up, I'd have to go through another name change Just kidding:D BV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Varsava Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hey BV,As a user my primary concern is not to void my warranty. So it sounds like I need to use my F2's or add a riser/suspension kit to my TD2's. So far, so good with JUST TD2's...and I've been carving harder on my AM-T than ANYTHING I've ridden before... JPW I still feel TD2s are good as is. Have yet to hear any concerns. BV Wish I could afford a set to test with(-: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
west carven Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 what?... shred you peeled the 161 to take a look see what about carbon butterfly on top of metal? anyway keep bending metal and it gets weak, just ask uri gellar :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 Im not bending metal... Im work hardening it!!! viva la Schtubby! Right Said Shred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 Used to be sponsored through a local shop to ride volant skies. I loved them they were so damp and smooth. Well the problem was that they only lasted a week or so before I would brake them. It was behind the rear binding and it usually seemed like an extreme cambering( not decambering) situation was to blame.I think metal on the inside of the board or ski is the way to go. Non-metal Volant snowboards also sucked, I blew up two of them. Then paid extra for a metal board because they said it was better, and that blew up on the first day I rode it. I think their problem was with the glue they used, not the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavechaser Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 Perhaps there will be some binding or plate system improvements for the freecarver that will protect the metal boards better than the current binding designs. From what I hear, for the high performance freecarver, the F2 S-flex, and Gerab risers, are a good compromise between a full-on Hangl setup and standard bindings with plex plates. Much lighter than a Hangl setup, and able to be mounted to standard hole patterns. Let the board flex more naturally and more independently of the bindings than plex plates too - but WAY more expensive of course...the only downside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavechaser Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 I bet there is better plate material with better properties to dissipate the pressure more evenly throughout the interface. Something that is Stiff..yea has some good vibromatic dampening qualities. You mean like.....a Tinkler plate?!?! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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