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silberpfiel vs nidecker SL etc.


rschneid

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Ok, I got my heart set on an F2 Silberpfiel, but it looks like that board is not available to me in the US. So how about some alternatives that are close to it?

I have a 176 Prior Metal WCR. I love it. But I want another board (#2) for really quick carves and maneuverability when its crowded (which it is, a lot at WT).

I figured the F2 163 would be perfect. What other suggestions does anyone have? How about the Nidecker SL 162? That looks like a great board and keeps me in the family.

I am 6'2"/200lbs and have been riding a Nidecker MegaLight with HB as my short board but it is delaminating/cracking and giving up under the strain of HB. It was not designed for HB so this comes as no suprise. Its time for a replacement. As I have explained to my wife, my life is now in serious jeapardy due to this board. The only thing that can protect me for her, is anther bright shiny new board. My only concern here is her.

Rich S.

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What? We're agreeing on something.

DT - Stan has it at his house right now - want it? I'm just doing a bit of thinning

Your not Thor and neither am I, of coarse we are agreeing. I picked up that Hot Blast from "The Salesman", so I am good in the SL category. Thanks!

Sorry for the hijack rschneid, but cfj04's RT could be a good option for you. It's German built, unlike the current models.

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Hey I don't mind hijackers. I have lots to learn from everyone in this thread. I am leaning towards the Nidecker SL 158.

1. It looks cool (hey something has to be my top reason)

2. It has characteristics that look similar to the Silber

3. It is available at alpine carving

4. The price is right

5. It means I replace my old Nidecker with another Nidecker

Rich S.

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Rich, I'm no expert, as you know, but I wonder if that Nidecker SL 158 would be too small for you. It gives a rider weight range of 60-80kg, and you are up at 90kg.

If I recall, you liked somewhat relaxed binding angles, so you might like something a bit wider, too. Perhaps something a Donek Axxess 167 or 172, which would give you a significantly tighter sidecut than your WCR 177, or maybe a Coiler AM 169.

Brad B.

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Getting sick of breaking boards. I know I was breaking them before because my bad technique and weak (read stiff) leggedness caused a lot of chattering, but getting bummed after I blew my Prior WCR (after a short but very exciting couple of days laying nice snakes on the corduroy). to shreds. I hooked in to the thread because the Silberpfeil gets me excited. Does anyone have any idea of durability.

No disrespect meant.

p.s. any idea where a sales guy can get a Herb Tarlick fart catcher one piece suit to match his professional image?

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I think the weight thing is baloney (of course I have 0 experience so what do I know) - however the megalight that rode to death was supposed to top out at 75kg. And there are no boards within the Nidecker collection that go over 85 and most top out at 75. So whats that all about? They don't make boards for 200lbs people? I think that this is a labeling thing because people want to be told everything - maybe? The weight thing does not really get to me (unless a zillion people chime in that it really is meaningful). Is it?

Here a quick comparison. The Waist width is not an issue as the SL is fatter than my WCR

................SC ........Waist ......Eff Edge ....Length

Nidecker SL 8.6 .......196 .........134 ..........158

Silber .........9 ........180 ..........145 ..........162

WCR .........11.9 .....195 ..........150 ..........177

Nidecker ML 7.2 ......253 ..........116 ..........163 NOT CARVE BOARD but ridden with TD2s

Rich S.

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Rich,

Don't be too concerned about the weights listed on the manufacturer's sites. For the longer boards, i.e. Nidecker 162SL, I would ocnsider then recommended weight to be 70kg and up. On the shorter board, i.e. Nidecker 158SL, a heavier weight rider would be more likely to decrease the life of the board.

My concern would be at your weight, a 158cm board might not have enough edge to allow you to really drive and push the board.

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Sounds like good advice to me. I will push up to the Nidecker SL 163. Everyone agree that that should still provide a significant difference in performance from my WCR?
I would say it depends on the SCR of your WCR. The Nidecker has an SCR of 8.9m. If the WCR is around 12m, then yes they would complement each other nicely.
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I really noticed the difference between my Volkl Renntiger, Stat 6 and WCR. The Volkl and WCR are equally "lively", whereas the Stat 6 is totally dead. i.e. it provides no energy back coming out of your turn. If the Nidecker could be thus classified, you'll love it. I also had a Santa Cruz before the Volkl. Apparently those were built by Volkl. Unfortunately I broke it just in front of the front binding due to my (then) tendency to "drive" too much (i.e. lean forward too much and bend too much at the waist than at the ankles and knees). If you have such tendencies, you will break the shorter board because you're already exacerbating the situation with your intended shorter radius turns. (Unless Nideckers are bulletproof).

my $ .002.

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Agree in principle, but what about flex. I really noticed the difference between my Volkl Renntiger, Stat 6 and WCR. The Volkl and WCR are equally "lively", whereas the Stat 6 is totally dead. i.e. it provides no energy back coming out of your turn.
I follow what you are saying. When I purchased my Hot Blast, I went to a shop that had many different SL boards on the wall. "The Salesman" and I discussed my style and what boards would be most appropriate. I looked at the SG Speed, SG Race T, Kessler, Volkl RT, Nidecker SL, Prior WCR, and Hot Blast. Flexing the boards, I found all of them to be stiff and lively. I did not want to spend the $$ on metal so the Kessler and SG Race T were out. The SG Speed felt really stiff, so I skipped it. I have had Priors and Volkls and wanted something different. The choice came down to an '08 Nidecker SL (metal but inexpensive) and an unknown vintage Jun Meakawa Hot Blast (~ '03??) still in plastic. I liked the feel of the Nidecker. Hand flexing, it felt identical to a German built Volkl. I chose the Hot. The main reason was it is something different and a friend used to race on one, still has it and absolutely loves it.
my (then) tendency to "drive" too much (i.e. lean forward too much and bend too much at the waist than at the ankles and knees). If you have such tendencies, you will break the shorter board because you're already exacerbating the situation with your intended shorter radius turns.
This is where I have found the BTS kit to be a great asset. It allows you to flex the boot, tune the amount of resistance, and effectively pressure the edge of the board.
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