Intec Heels + screws for Stratos Pro

[queequeg]

Hello,

I have a pair of head stratos pros, and I am installing intec heels on them. I have read that the inserts that come with the stratos pros are somewhat inferior, in that they do not have teeth that will lock the insert into the boot to prevent it from spinning (unlike the inserts that come with your intec heels).

I tried to remove the standard head inserts, but no dice, they would not come out. Is this really a big deal? Do I really need to replace them? If so, how do I get them out, they seem to be a permanent fixture of the boot heel. I have my intec heels screwed into the standard inserts right now, as I couldn't get them out to replace them with the intec ones.

Thanks!

[D-Sub]

if yours didnt spin when pulling the stock heels OR installing the intec heels, you are both fortunate (because it is a PITA) and perfectly fine using the stock inserts.

I never even swapped em out on my Blax Stratos. I did on the new Pros though because a few spun.

[queequeg]

This is good news -- thanks a lot!

[jnshapiro]

You ought to remove those stock inserts and replace them with the T-nuts. The stock inserts aren't nearly as solid and you'll never be able to get the screws tight as at least 1 of the inserts on each heal will spin during tightening, and it's not likely that you'll notice unless you are looking for it.

I had to partially thread a screw and knock 'em out with a hammer. Then had to use a long dowel to hammer in the T-nuts from the other side.

I'm much happier with them this way.

[Scott Firestone]

When using Intec heels on Head boots, in order to get the heel screws sufficiently tight, you will need to apply an amount of torque which causes at least one or two of the original T-nuts to spin. So, you really need to replace the original T-nuts. You can tap out the T-nuts with a nail and hammer. If the T-nuts are spinning when you try to unscrew the heel screws, you can use a left-handed 5/32" screw extractor:

Use it with a T-handle. Hold the extractor bit against the T-nut on the inside of the boot while you unscrew the heel screws.

[queequeg]

So ok,

Most of the posts on this tread are indicating to me that I will not be able to get the heels in sufficiently tight without the standard inserts spinning in place. As I understand it, this is the main reason I don't want to stick with the standard inserts.

However:

I have installed the heels on both of my boots, and they are both very tight (I tightened in a star shape, doing one boot, then the other and then re-tightening each boot twice, applying plenty of torque. None of my inserts spun or roatated at all, they remained solidly in place.

So given that, do I really have to go through the whole process of removing the standard inserts (which really, don't seem even slightly interested in budging)?

[D-Sub]

that was how I understood it...youd already gotten everything nice and snug with no spinning.

you're square

are the t-nuts supplied with the heels "better?" yes, if only incrementally. They have a larger head and therefore probably better hold, but with 4 screws in each heel Im sure youre fine

if youre even slightly worried...itll take you half an hour to swap em out.

[queequeg]

that sounds good. I guess I'll just take the little baggy of t-nuts to the mountain with me, in case they ever loosen and spin mid-day, but after tightening and re-tightening, they don't seem like they're gonna move on me at all.

[martyagt4]

Not ever seeing the inserts on the Head/Blax boots, I'll have to ASSume they are similar to the Deeeeeeeluxe inserts.

I for one would install the t-nuts. They have a much greater surface area than the inserts I imagine might be in the Head boots. Under normal usage, forces on the rear are directed into the ledge on the boot.

With an Intec setup, forces are directed in those four small screws and inserts. I want all the surface area available to keep from pulling out an insert.

Then again, I have no idea if that has ever happened.

[queequeg]

you're square

And hip!

[D-Sub]

Huey Lewis says it is hip to be square

the insert aint gonna pull out, man. Still...you're being lazy not putting the "better" t-nuts in ;)

[lonerider]

Hi, I'm having a lot of trouble getting out a screw to install my Intec heels. I found this thread a few weeks ago and actually got a hold of Scott Firestone's screw extractor (we live near each other). Problem is the screw is in the nut so deep that the extractor can't get in the other side enough to get any grip on the bolt. I tried getting a wider bit, that didn't work. I tried a pair of vice-grips, that didn't work. I took it to a ski shop and the shop tech couldn't get it undone. He suggest (cautiously) to use a dremel tool to cut a notch in the bolt and then use a flathead screwdriver (although it would be hard to fit the dremel in there).

Any other suggestions?

[Blue Bird]

can you use an awl or a nail to act as a wedge between the insert and the plastic surrounding the insert? This may keep the insert from turning while you loosen the screw. a small screwdriver may work also. You might look at pushing the insert through the bottom of the boot since you will be using a new t nut when this is finished.

[terekhov]

I user brute force to remove original stratos heel inserts to install T-nuts from INTEC heels. so: I remove original head's heel, then screw bolt to INSERT and hammer insert out to inside of the boot. next 3 inserts need only 1 tap to completely remove :)

[cail]

Hi, I'm having a lot of trouble getting out a screw to install my Intec heels. I found this thread a few weeks ago and actually got a hold of Scott Firestone's screw extractor (we live near each other). Problem is the screw is in the nut so deep that the extractor can't get in the other side enough to get any grip on the bolt. I tried getting a wider bit, that didn't work. I tried a pair of vice-grips, that didn't work. I took it to a ski shop and the shop tech couldn't get it undone. He suggest (cautiously) to use a dremel tool to cut a notch in the bolt and then use a flathead screwdriver (although it would be hard to fit the dremel in there).

Any other suggestions?

with a screw extractor, you may have to drill a pilot hole fairly deep into the screw. i had a binding screw that rusted to the board... i had to drill almost the whole way through, and even then i needed to use a larger extractor bit because the drill bit made a wider hole than expected (chattering). with the extractor, you really have to push down hard to get it to bite.

you can get a set at Lowe's for about $10 (Extractor bits). you should also pick up this: Tap wrench. it holds the bits easily and gives good torque.

[lonerider]

with a screw extractor, you may have to drill a pilot hole fairly deep into the screw. i had a binding screw that rusted to the board... i had to drill almost the whole way through, and even then i needed to use a larger extractor bit because the drill bit made a wider hole than expected (chattering). with the extractor, you really have to push down hard to get it to bite.

you can get a set at Lowe's for about $10 (Extractor bits). you should also pick up this: Tap wrench. it holds the bits easily and gives good torque.

I don' think you understand. The screw is intact, I'm using the screw extractor to grab onto the T-nut. Unfortunately, the screw is do deep into the nut, that I can't stick the bit in through the other side enough to get any purchase.

Did you replace the T-nuts on your Stratos Pros (what year are they?)

[cail]

ok, yeah i guess i misunderstood.

i haven't replaced the t-nuts on mine.

[dingbat]

Drill the heads off the screws from the heel side. Use cobalt bits just a little larger than the threaded part of the screw at low speed with plenty of oil. The heels should drop right off. Then you can hammer on the cut end of the screw to knock the t-nuts out. You'll want new screws of course.:D