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heelside chatter


rsqknight

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I'm am running "Gilmore" right now. Maybe too much? I have 9mm on the front and 9mm on the back. So a total of 18mm. Wonder if I should back off on the rear foot some?

Make sure your actual rear heel is not inbound of the heel edge. If it is inbound you get chatter.

Better to make sure your rear toe hangs over a bit and then flatten your rear angle until your heel is even with the heel edge.

Also do not brace your legs for a heel side- turn your head way to your heelside turn early. You also must initiate your heelside faster then your toeside and be both more forward (since your heel is more rearward) and lower....much lower. You can let your butt bounce off the snow.. butt has to be over the board not hanging off the crapper.

Are your edges sharp?

Finally- curling your toes inside your boots causes chatter because it interferes with your ankles and boot flex. Make sure you breathe too- too many people hold their breath and bear down..which is wrong...particularly if done after the apex.

Also once you pass the fall line or apex... don't press into the snow anymore- just glide and flow with it....very important

________

Ford Motor Company Of Australia History

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I was out today with BobbyBugs and my issue is not chatter, but just not able to get the hip down and out low enough. Part of my issue was not "stearing the big bus wheel" up and into the hill with my arms and shoulders and leaving my back knee out high and dry while opening my back arm up ( an old habbit "coffee cup holder" soft boot counter ballance technique thing I do) and I need to quiet down my back arm and reach forward (flying like Superman) when powering into the turn. Part of my issue too is I am tall, and I just have not found the board I like yet for a euro carve style :(

For BX and gates, I'm all set with technique and don't have heel chatter. I drive with the hip and pinch "cowboy" style inward with the back foot and keep my weight to the nose as I enter the turn, then slide my mass back and hunker lower on the back knee pressed into my front thigh.

when I try to find the euro style "sweet spot" on the rentiger I was on, It would almost run away from me, or I'd turn it so hard and fast, it would scare the piss outa me.

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The renntiger has such a progressive sidecut that on heelside if executed low and forward with kneedrive- the board flexes so much the sidecut gets really extreme...even on the GS ones- that it can come around super fast.

I've always liked the renntiger for people who have narrow steep trails because you can dump a lot of speed in turns easily with that sidecut. But once you really start to power it well- you'll want a less progressive sidecut board.

So maybe it is time to add to your quiver...

________

CHARLIE SHEEN INTERN

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if we get lazy in our turns we start to float back with the hands

hips etc. I use a fun way to get my energy back up front...

hold your hands out in front of you and imagine that they are on

the steering wheel of your car...all turning is initiated by those hands

out in front so just turn the wheel...:biggthump

Turns initiated by the hands or upper body is counter to everything that I have been teaching for the last 14 years. Using cues like this to remind yourself of a body position may be all right. In the overall scheme of things I like to think about movement patterns that work not necesarily body positions. I also use steering wheel analogies, mtn bike handlebars airplane wings in front to try to keep the groms from dropping hands back behind their butt - so I guess that is the same thing in a way. But not for turn initiation.

At higher end carving levels I try to focus more on spinal flexion, shoulders level to the slope, etc to get into more flexible "tools".

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well, as I said, I use this to get my energy back to the front...

My hands lead me down the hill, maybe this is just my style.

It would seem from looking at your cool Avatar pic that our styles

are the same however?:biggthump

Yeah. I wasn't trying to pick you apart on this. It was just thinking about starting the turn with the hands ( steering wheel ) that caught my eye. Probably not worth worrying about for most. Definitely anyting that keeps the weight momentum forward isn't a bad thing. I have seen it so many times when my riders drop their hands back, their butt will soon follow.

Thanks for the stoke on the avatar pic. Since I am usually on the other side of the camera, this is maybe the only pic that I have of me carving. Have some video that I can't get to load on the puter or I could grab a single frame.

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Rentiger comments, & maybe it is time to add to your quiver...

Ya. I have only been on 3 different boards so far. The RT is a board that just wants to turn and do it when it want too. I actualy found myself pressing outward a few times to get it to re-camber and exit a hard over initiated turn. I've pressured turns on my soft gear and hard gear alike that make your body "cunch and hunkerdown" with just simple g-force of a snap turn. I like that power, but only when I am in control of it.

Dont much care for "suprises" and the "scorpion tail" end of a carved swath as it hooks way back up at the end or middle of it into a little "stinger".

The RT is not a "keeper" quiver board for me. Its "fun", but after having a few yardsales and choppy chattered out slides I can see myself seriously getting wrecked on it knowing myself & ride style alone.

I think I'm going longer (177 ish) and with something that will just have nice long sweeping turns and still retain the ability to "STOP" on a dime... not turn on one.. LOL

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Have been carving for 1 1/2 seasons and am in love. Few carvers around here to help me out.

Am having a lpt of heelside chatter and cannot seem to resolve it on my own. Any help?

Also if you are moving fast and get too inside of the turn with your hips- momentum downforce starts to become a larger component of centripedial lateral force.

When that centripedial force exceeds the downforce in terms of your momentum you blow out of the snow. And this is caused by your board actually being pushed up and out of the groove that your made- because the lateral force is overcoming downforce for the moment. The your board chatters as it struggles to reset the edge and again... unsets it an instant later as your momentum is no longer going in an arc- but in a straight line down hill. with each unsetting and resetting of the edge your force vector moves less in the arc and more downhill (assuming some of your board is gripping somewhere along the edge)

Applying more downforce by threading the knee through can solve this but better still to climb atop the edge instead of away from it. Ie open your armpit to tehhill and level your shoulders.... do not take my avatar as an example- that was shot for a photo and not for form.

However- when you are that low.. unlevel shoulders don't matter so much ..which is why I am not chattering.

________

Ipad guide

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Ya. I have only been on 3 different boards so far. The RT is a board that just wants to turn and do it when it want too. I actualy found myself pressing outward a few times to get it to re-camber and exit a hard over initiated turn. I've pressured turns on my soft gear and hard gear alike that make your body "cunch and hunkerdown" with just simple g-force of a snap turn. I like that power, but only when I am in control of it.

Dont much care for "suprises" and the "scorpion tail" end of a carved swath as it hooks way back up at the end or middle of it into a little "stinger".

The RT is not a "keeper" quiver board for me. Its "fun", but after having a few yardsales and choppy chattered out slides I can see myself seriously getting wrecked on it knowing myself & ride style alone.

I think I'm going longer (177 ish) and with something that will just have nice long sweeping turns and still retain the ability to "STOP" on a dime... not turn on one.. LOL

How much do you weigh?

look in the classifieds and if you like the description we can work something out, that board is very demanding though.

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