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Intec Challenge Comp


bumpyride

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dont know about the disks, but I rode these for a while. They are plastic, yes...but seemed durable enough

Im 215+ lbs...but I'm not "dynamic" or "aggressive" according to some.

they held up for the short period I used them for, and were definitely more forgiving than TD2s (but I still like TD2s!)

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I had a pair of Burton disks machined for my Intec Challenge Comps so I could ride my Fish with plates. The machinist used some fancy plastic (Delrin?) and charged me $50. I think I could find his contact info, he said he'd keep the CAD file if I ever needed another set...

They've held up fine to a dozen or so powder days so I think they're solid... They were strong enough hold on through a landing that cracked the core of the board.

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Can you compare lateral stiffnes to say burton race plates (non stepin)?

I'm searching for the laterally least stiffest binding out there. Is F2 Intec Comp the way to go?

Hows the profile of the binding considering that I like mine flat (no cant, no lift) just like the good old burton race plates (same low profile if possible)

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I use the Intec RS which is comparable with Intec Comp on my Tanker and pow boards. The reason I use it is cause it´s NOT latteraly stiff. It works great. You can move your legs quite a bit without folding the board. My advice is - go fot it. You won´t regret it.

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sorry...dunno about the angles. I would really think this would be a freeride/pow binding, not a hard charger, although I did mount them on a Prior WCR 185 and a donek axis 182 and they worked fine on both

theyre not the lowest profile binding, but without any of the supplied lift shims installed, they are pretty low.

I would definitely recommend them for freeride...and maybe for full-blown carving, but not sure there.

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He's ridden Burtons for several seasons and now has Cateks and has seen my Comps on the board pictured. As for the Prowler, it turned out pretty good. The guys did a good job on the base and epoxied the tail so it wouldn't de-lam, not the prettiest job, but it's functional. I've been having alot of fun on it and it really confuses the hell outta people. I've seen numerous folks look at it, look at my hardboots, look back at the board, start to open their mouth than just stop and stare some more.... :D I wouldn't say I'm full-out charging on it, but Ralann was with me when I rode it for the 2nd time and I was able to get some decent turns laid over on it :biggthump

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So would you, those that have ridden them personally, recommend them for a 185cm or 178cm titanal SGS RAce board (they might go on top of the Hangl Race Plate from Sigi) or a 175 Swoard Soft?

I won't use them for Powdering but either carving or racing PGS. As said I need a laterally rather loose but forward/backwards stiff as hell and well damped binding. Oh of course I want them to be as unbreakable like my burton race plates from 98 that still hold up without any repairs needed. (Im at 70kg only)

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The Swoard maybe, but I'm thinking that anything else is risking it. I'm 185-190lbs "sans" gear and think the only reason I haven't had a malfunction yet is because the board is absorbing the brunt of my inputs with it's relatively soft flex. I wouldn't dream of mounting it on a longer stiffer board or one with the Hangl system....just my 2 cents

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o.k. guys - seems that I'll have to stick to my burton race plates carbon - and maybe get a replacement Ibex just in case or for my second board.

Even better would be to get only the heel part of the burton race plate stepin and put it onto my plates. However they seem to be more rare than anything else. Maybe they all cracked?

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