Mallard_with_a_Gun Posted January 18, 2007 Report Posted January 18, 2007 Ok, looking for opinions on tip and tail nicks and chips. Had a completely daft bastid smack into the tail of my board last weekend resulting in a fairly impressive dent, roughly the size and shape of the outer 1/4 of a penny. I've heard all manner of rumors concerning delams, top sheet peeling, water in the core and whatnot and to be honest I have no idea which if any are true. Should I have this "hot patched" or some other form of repair? If I should have it repaired is one method better than another? Should I just grin and bear it and not worry about such things? My old board has a myriad of dents, bangs, gouges and whatnot and it seemed to bear them with fair dignity. It is an otherwise flawless board, one which I'm VERY fond of. One more thing, what are the thoughts on those rubber/plastic tip and/or tail protectors? They worth doing or just a faintly hideous waste of time? Quote
crucible Posted January 18, 2007 Report Posted January 18, 2007 Think of 'em as character marks. The only nicks and dings that you should worry over are core shots, ripped and hanging pieces of edge material, and sidewall delaminations. Quote
RDY_2_Carve Posted January 18, 2007 Report Posted January 18, 2007 I'm putting Dakine spikes on the tail of my Coiler. Was even thinking about grinding them sharper somehow. Huge post on that subject from not too long ago. I remember seeing quite a few Tinklers with "tail protection"! Super Glue seems to work pretty good for topsheet dings for me, but my main concern would be preventing the problem from getting worse rather than trying to fix it. Quote
Mallard_with_a_Gun Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Posted January 18, 2007 Super Glue seems to work pretty good for topsheet dings for me, but my main concern would be preventing the problem from getting worse rather than trying to fix it. That was pretty much my thought as well, wasn't sure whether super glue would eat the top sheet or not. Was considering epoxy, or just taking it to the shop and have it mended by someone who actually knows what they are doing Quote
pebu Posted January 18, 2007 Report Posted January 18, 2007 How would hot glue work at preventing it's spread? Easy to use, pretty easy to get looking not bad... Just a thought. Quote
carvedog Posted January 18, 2007 Report Posted January 18, 2007 epoxy works well for edge chips of the bad variety. you gotta use the 24 hour stuff. also taping over the epoxy with packing/duct tape will result in a smoother finish without the risk of sticky stuff being spread about your work space inadvertantly. Using the two part epoxy I have also taken a very lightly oiled wax scraper (if the area is flat enough) and clamped it to the repair and got an almost invisible and smooth seal. Quote
dano Posted January 19, 2007 Report Posted January 19, 2007 RE: Had a completely daft bastid smack into the tail of my board last weekend resulting in a fairly impressive dent, roughly the size and shape of the outer 1/4 of a penny. Sorry to here about the dingbat dings. I usually go far out of my way to go riding on weekdays to avoid the bumbling boobs. In my opinion that's exactly like crashing into someone elses car in traffic. WTF MORON??????!!!!!! If you are that out of control, go practice gliding on the freaking bunny slope, or at least take a dive and plant that ass/face in the ice before you mess up someone else's stuff. What's worse is it NEVER happens to a board you don't care or WANT it to happen too. My canary yellow 173 FP for instance...People avoid getting near this ugly bastard stepchild board! And it would look better all bashed up. Oh and depending on the color, you can fill gashes with marine filler epoxy...( that stinky white stuff that comes in a log that you cut off a piece and mix it in your hands like dough) fill it the CLEANED area, level it with a putty knife, let it dry, hand sand it shiny with 150 grit paper, then hopefully try to match the color with one of those little bottles of model paint or spray paint. Several thin coats. Quote
kmagvette Posted January 19, 2007 Report Posted January 19, 2007 What carvedog said - but with a twist. Remember you can put layers of epoxy on the repair. This matters if you want a repair that looks professional. Since the divot is missing from the tail of your ride, the repair area is flat or close. To repair, mix up a small amount of epoxy and dab it into the repair area without slobbering it on the surrounding topsheet. If you have flat jaw woodworking clamps use them OR you can use a C-Clamp and two small chunks of wood, plastic scrapers, etc. Cover the repair with wax paper and clamp it. This will force the epoxy into the repair area and fair it with respect to your topsheet. After the epoxy sets up you can remove the clamp. The wax paper will just lift off reveling a very flat repair. If you need a little more epoxy to fill in the repair area - repeat. Any epoxy that oozes out onto the sidewall can simple be filed off. As another poster mentioned you can use pigment to color the epoxy if you wish. It won't be perfect but you might get close. Aside from looks it is a good idea to use a pigment in epoxy as clear epoxy is very sensitive to UV and will get brittle over time. If you want to get crazy and do the ultimate repair, you can wet sand the repair area when you are done. Use soapy water and start with 500 grit paper - go slow, jumping up to 1000 and finally 1500 or 2000 grit paper (see your local body shop for these). Your repair will be ultra smooth and most of the other tiny scratches you had in your topsheet will also be gone. That should just about cover it :) Quote
sheffy Posted January 19, 2007 Report Posted January 19, 2007 I'm putting Dakine spikes on the tail of my Coiler. Was even thinking about grinding them sharper somehow. Huge post on that subject from not too long ago. I remember seeing quite a few Tinklers with "tail protection"!Super Glue seems to work pretty good for topsheet dings for me, but my main concern would be preventing the problem from getting worse rather than trying to fix it. Thats a great idea im getting sick of the BS in the lift lines!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote
carvedog Posted January 19, 2007 Report Posted January 19, 2007 What carvedog said - but with a twist. To repair, mix up a small amount of epoxy and dab it into the repair area without slobbering it on the surrounding topsheet. If you have flat jaw woodworking clamps use them OR you can use a C-Clamp and two small chunks of wood, plastic scrapers, etc. Cover the repair with wax paper and clamp it. This will force the epoxy into the repair area and fair it with respect to your topsheet. That should just about cover it :) This sounds better than oil. I was just using what I had during a late night repair session. And it worked. Plus i didn't want my brand new scraper being permanently adhered to my board. Worst ever ding to a new board was suffered on my brand new 173 Canyon mounted up with brand new Burton Race Plates, taking an intermediate out to a deserted Broadway Face. Took three chairs to get there so I havn't really ridden it yet. 200 yards down the cat track to the end of the bowls and one of the ski team kids laying down on his tails goofing off didn't see me somehow and runs right over the nose leaving a nice gash- starting at front binding and running out over the tip. Since we were on a cat track and I was tucking it loosely I hadn't actually even made a turn. And the kid didn't stop just pointed it down the road. Steamed. . MAD. . Couldn't go kick his butt 'cause of my lesson. Sorry the above posts triggered a memory, I vented and feel better now. THX :o Release. Wax on. Wax off. Quote
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