icebiker
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Posts posted by icebiker
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Thanks again all, my season is over for now
but you’ve given me much to think about and I look forward to applying these tips next season! 
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Again thanks for all the helpful tips! Here are a couple of examples however of what I struggle to understand. These pics are inspiring for sure, and while EC isn’t what I’m aiming for at this point, I marvel at how the body positioning doesn’t show a lot of leg/knee bend (counter to some of the tips above).
https://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/topic/55440-photo-shoot-with-my-ec-buddy/Take heelside first. See pic 5. Rider’s legs and butt are very close to snow, legs flexed but not extremely bent, board angulated at ~45 degrees. In my equivalent heelside photo, board is similarly angulated, legs are similarly flexed but not overly bent, yet I am way up off the snow. What is he doing that I am not? I am certain he is carrying much more speed than I am, so that could very well be a factor, I’m just trying to understand his technique.
Now, for toeside, see pic 3. Body stretched EC style, legs only mildly flexed, yet body very close to snow. Is he able to do that because of centripetal force at speed (eg flex/bend legs entering the turn, then extend at the apex?)
In digesting everyone’s feedback I sense my issue is a combination of poor body positioning and insufficient speed. Any thoughts on the above?
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Thanks John. I may take you up on that. Wife and son and I were thinking that would be a great destination for next season. Great tips on the meantime. Do you have a link to the video you reference?
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On 2/21/2023 at 4:24 PM, Emd301 said:
still got a set? compatible with intec heels?
I have a set in the classifieds as of yesterday. Can’t seem to post the link in this reply but $350 obo. Yes compatible with Intec.
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On 2/24/2023 at 6:08 AM, Neil Gendzwill said:
Not that I’m the greatest at getting low but from the video it looks like you are too casual getting on edge. You need to get on edge more aggressively way earlier in the turn than you think you can. The other tip I found useful is to actively drive the back kneecap into the snow on toeside and the side of the front knee into the snow on heelside.
Actually, your avatar demonstrates the "lowness" I aim for! You're way too modest
. I agree I need to work on getting on edge sooner. I think one of the things I am doing to prevent this is as go across the slope, which is often to scrub speed (see earlier post about fear of speed), I don't have enough momentum to initiate an early on-edge turn in the opposite direction, so I lazily initiate in an upright position until I gather enough momentum to pressure the edge more aggressively as I turn.
As for the back/front knee tip, yes, and actually this is a tip I picked up a long time ago from the BOL forum and it totally makes since. In fact I added a bit of Gilmour bias to my bindings to help accentuate this effect.
On 2/24/2023 at 12:11 AM, johnasmo said:Think of it like as using your thigh bones (femurs) to drive your knees to the snow. To do that, you need to position your hips behind them, even on heal side. Rotate your hips to make it feel like your are pointing your femurs to the snow and then let them drive your knees down. Keep your shoulders relatively level and don't reach for the snow and, voila, you will find yourself angulating more than ever.
Gonna give that a shot...currently trying to envision what "hips behind femurs" should feel like...I think I understand but will play around next time I'm out.
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On 2/24/2023 at 6:36 AM, TimW said:
To me it does not look like there is too much wrong with your riding, just that you need to get more aggressive (and indeed by angulating the board, not by reaching for the snow). You would fool me into thinking that you are just cruising, but could do more.
So what happens if you get more aggressive / lower. Do you fall?
I think that's right. I think I need to concentrate more on reaching for the rail AS I angulate. I think what I am doing wrong when I try to angulate more is I'm not bringing my mass over the board (by failing to counter the angulation with a reach for the rail or front boot). This causes me to lose the edge when i get more aggressive.
Mechanically everyone's guidance makes sense....a) Angulate more.....but then also b) reach for the rail to keep weight centered over the edge that's in contact with the snow (if you don't you slide out).
So assuming I make more effort to do the above, I am still wondering about my knees (something a few folks on this thread have pointed out) and whether I am bending/flexing them enough. I my heelside pic, it's hard to tell but my knees are decently bent. Not like the rider in @Pat Donnelly's magazine pics, but bent nonetheless. Yet in @Neil Gendzwill's avatar, his knees look mildly bent yet he is oriented nice and low just like the magazine rider. Has me a bit confused to tell the truth!
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On 2/24/2023 at 11:42 AM, pow4ever said:
lots of great advice here! it takes courage to ask and humility to take advice. Good on you!
very quiet upper body nice form(tiny bit stiff).
speed (like riding a bike) help and steeper trail make the ground closer.
More rotation and more angulation and more dynamic (relax but to really weight (going into the turn) and unweight(coming out of the turn)
Who do you typically ride with and where do you ride? online-carving coaching is good but hard to beat in person session (not always possible)
As mentioned before:
Getting lower/petting snow isn't necessary good yard stick to measure progress. correlation != causation.
Ability speed control is a better litmus test (for me). What do you feel is lacking in your riding?Thanks! As someone who bikes, I agree speed is part of the key. Among my challenges are a) fear (of steeps, ice, and speed) and b) lack of frequent riding (maybe 4-8 days a season) and thus c) inadequate leg strength to be more aggressive. I have no problems tackling steeps by sliding/fishtailing but committing to a carve on steeps is daunting. So I've been trying to perfect my technique on the blues with the hopes of graduating to steeps in due course.
One of the videos that intrigued me is this one. While it is EC oriented, and I'm not aiming for that right now, it does seem to show that you can execute a deep, low carve even without a ton of speed going into the turn. See 5:42 ... he goes into a laid toeside turn without a ton of speed? or is it my imagination?
In terms of who I ride with, it's my son (expert skier, not a boarder) and a handful of friends that also ski. No boarding companions. I would love to get some in person coaching. I tend to learn best through visual/hands-on and feel pretty confident that I can build on my basic skills if I had one of you alongside as a coach! I am in NJ, and occasionally hit VT. Was just in Steamboat too...didn't see a single hardbooter there either. We are indeed a rare breed.
On 2/24/2023 at 9:38 AM, dhamann said:I would define my "lower" objective to be in line with @Pat Donnelly's magazine pics above and @Neil Gendzwill's avatar. Similar to the styles I see from many of the members on this forum.
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On 2/24/2023 at 1:52 AM, barryj said:
So what board you riding? What bindings? What angles? What boots?
I switch between a Ride Yukon 172W (9/8/9 SCR) and a Donek Axxess 172 (9-11 VSCR). Boots are Deeluxe LeMans or Deeluxe 225's. Angles are 55/50. My waist widths are 26cm due to big (31.5) feet.
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Awesome guys, many thanks for taking the time. Some great insight here. Lots to digest but today was a killer at work so will respond in more depth tomorrow.
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I’m looking to get lower to the snow on both toe sides and heel sides. I’ve followed much of the advice from various posts on this forum over the years as well as the Carver’s Almanac, however I think I’ve plateaued at this point and could use a little nudge to get better.
To give you idea of where I’m at, the two still pics are about as close to the slope as I get on heel side and toe side respectively. These were taken during moderate speed turns.
The video was filmed when I was doing more relaxed turns, not really pushing myself, but should give you a sense of my position, stance, etc
I [think] what I need to do is a) angulate the board higher on edge AND b) move my upper body more toward the board’s downhill edge (the edge not in contact with the snow). This, in turn (pun intended
), should c) drive the knees/legs lower toward the slope. Does that sound right? Any guidance and corrective suggestions appreciated!
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9 hours ago, Dave Winters said:
Hey Dave. First day tomorrow (Sunday) so getting my legs back. Here with my adult son who at some point will peel off for the steeps this week. I’ll ping you after Day 1 to figure out when to meet. Are you here all week?
-Greg 973 224 2616 -
Ordered!!
will wear proudly.
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@Contrabeanany idea of sidecut radius? Waist width? Would it suit a 200lbs rider? I maybe interested in the board if @duncanonly wants the bindings. Thanks
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Sorry to hear that. How many days of riding do you think you had on those Fintechs before the arms broke?
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Ok thanks that’s a big help. Anyone got some adult small softboot bindings for sale? I missed out on the C14’s that were recent posted.
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I’m helping a buddy get back into boarding. His old bindings are broken so I’m shopping for some good used softboot bindings. Many of the ones I see on fleabay don’t come with discs. However I still have a bunch of Burton 4x4 and 3D discs I can use. My question is whether the interface between the discs and the bindings are standard (same tooth count/spacing). For example could I mount a Sims or Ride softboot binding using the Burton discs?
It’s been a while since I’ve shopped for or used softies so any guidance appreciated. -
It’s possible but I always clean the bindings after each day of use, don’t carry them on my roof rack if roads are salty and I also store the boards in a dry garage. My F2 titanium SI’s are used much more often and don’t have this tarnish. I can deal with the tarnish in the end as long as their integrity isn’t compromised.
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My TD3SWSI’s have a some areas where the metal is tarnished. Especially the heel receivers. It’s mainly on the area that doesn’t come in contact with the boot heels (see pic). While they are about 10 years old, I don’t ride this particular board too often (maybe 4 times a season, and not at all the past two seasons). I clean them off after every day on the slopes, so I’m not sure what this is. I’ve tried steel wool, and diluted alcohol (both no luck) but before I try anything else figured I’d ask around in this forum if anyone has had a similar experience and how to resolve it. The issue is only cosmetic, but I’d still like to see what I can do to clean it. Thanks
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On 1/11/2023 at 2:02 PM, licmtk said:
adult small. make an offer...where are you located? thanks
These would be for a friend of mine whose older kemper bindings broke. I’m in NJ. Do you know what year they are from? I think they were made from 2001 to 2011? Mainly concerned that the plastic hasn’t gotten brittle.
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Calling @teach? I think he is in the NE PA area?
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When I was last there (2016) I found JackRabbit, Whiskey, Trembler, Horseshoe a blast. So much open terrain to let ‘er rip. You really can’t go wrong anywhere on the mountain other than the chutes (way beyond my skill level).
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Heading to Steamboat Feb 11-17 with my skier son. Want to get a jump on best blue runs for carving. Any advice and pointers appreciated. Found this thread very helpful and assume being only a year old it holds true:
https://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/topic/51217-steamboat-any-good-for-carving/
Would also love to connect with any fellow hardbooters too if you’re around. Being from NJ would be good to meet @big mario? LMK.
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On 12/31/2022 at 8:04 AM, Corey said:
Yes! Shoe Goo is literally designed for this. Mine lasts way more than a day, though I don't walk far on pavement/concrete. Just goop it on.
You have quite a bit of clearance between the heel and the binding when clipped in, so don't stress about making it too thick.
Tip: Monitor the Shoe Goo as it sets. You can reshape it for a few hours with your fingers, but once it sets it's hard. It will flow downhill, so I flip the boot every now and then when curing to keep from having a weird wedge on one side.
Hey @Corey alas the SkiSkootys don’t fit my mondo 31.5 boots (despite the website saying they would). So I’m going to go the Shoe Goo route. One question…how do you prevent the Goo from dropping down into the deep holes for the Fintech heel attachment screws? I assume just put some tape over them? Or do you have another technique? Thanks!
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Mountain biking.
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Should we all just start straight lining? Is getting smoked by the general public from behind the new norm?
in Carving Central
Posted
Just as resorts post messages on the lift towers (lower/raise your safety bar, prepare to unload, etc) perhaps post every 5 towers something like: “Remember: the skier/rider downslope of you has the right of way. If you collide it will be YOUR fault and you will be held responsible.” Yeah probably too long for a tower but you get the gist. Seeing as nothing is currently being done to reinforce this long standing rule, resorts could start by making it more apparent.