dillrepair

where do you guys ride? i'm in milwaukee. if you're ever interested in riding lemme know. I was thinking about joining that tyrol race thing.. but its a long drive from here.

i'm headed up there on those dates, just thought i'd see if anyone else was going to be in the area

for everyone who's read chris's reply about the eploding bolts and the fig newtons... well here's the real thing in case you hadn't gone to the patent office website to look at it yourself. i suppose it could work really well if anyone wanted to spend the time and make it more modern, and test it thouroughly... obviously i'll be sticking with the plates i already own, as for releasing both at the same time, god knows how you'd do that without a linkage rod or some such absurd thing connecting the two bindings. it seems pretty complicated and bulky but i'm still interested, just by looking at it i can't tell if it works well or not, but here is the link and some pics taken from the patent itself. earl miller's patent you have to click on full page images.. and you need a free plugin to view the tiff's, www.alternatiff.com its free and works well, with ablility to save images, small also... i have not recieved any advertisements as a result of installing, it is one of the recommended free viewers on the patent office website help section. there are more images in the patent, but these are the most generally illustrative, the others are cutaways, more specific, there's a variation with a flat metal tab instead of the nipple shown here

you guys mentioned a quick release binding, after reading about a recent injury on another forum, its got me wondering.. if bindings that release aren't the answer then what is, there must be some way to avoid shattering knees and lower legs. I understand the best way is to have good technique and make sure your equipment is working well, but if there were a way to make things safer through mechanical devices what would it be? any ideas?

one thing i notice regardless of canting angles is that once i tire myself out a bit i find the right place to be on the board because i stop being so stiff about things... and start to conform to how the board "wants" me to ride, once i do that then i can really feel if my positioning/angles/cant are comfortable.

i'm headed out there on jan 1... don't know much about the area, but if you're riding park city.. or somewhere else on jan 2.. let me know... e-mail me if you want my cell number cause i dunno if i'll have internet access out there. also, if you're flying(arriving in the morning or sometime when you still have time to get to park city or deer valley that day), i guess there's some kind of deal where if you register with park city beforehand and bring your boarding pass you get a free ticket for the rest of the day.

exactly, yeah. because when i'm standing in neutral position my heel wants to come up in my boot, and my boots don't fit bad at all. i've been using the wrong term the whole time... sorry.

thanks to all of you for your advice, a guy can read as much as he wants, but to have individual rider's views on the reading is just as important. i'm really suprised that extreme carving suggests no cant at all under the binding when many on this forum swear by cant. I guess i've been told by so many other carvers elsewhere when they see my setup to get some cant i just figured it was the way to go. Perhaps my technique could benefit from not canting and learning to ride a bit differently.

i'd love to try out or rent some TD's for a week or a day if they're around, i've been reading a lot of scary stuff about burton race plates giving up on ppl. In the past couple years my riding has become a lot more aggressive and i've always been worried about snapping something on the steeps here in the midwest so i doubt stresses on the bindings would be anything but worse on real steeps, etc. let me know if any of you guys will be riding around park city that week. also wondering about cheap ways to get from the airport/ salt lake city area to park city.

thanks, i'll keep that idea in mind... i might have to combine sets of bindings but big deal. both sets of burton plates i own were used when i got them and both surprisingly enough were mismatch sets... 1 race plate for the front and 2 different generations of step in bindings for the back foot. the old step-in is the rat trap type with the lever. another reason i haven't gone the easy route of finding a burton cant is due to my insane desire to constantly build little things like that.. so my own idiosyncrasy is to blame i'm sure. :) I haven't been out west in a few years so i'm pretty obsessive about things now that i know i'm going again. Please forgive the vulgarity but carving in the midwest is like going out with a girl for months and not getting any. (and i've been riding alpine out here for the last 8 years so i'm fairly starved)

at the risk of sounding like a whiny bastard... which i don't mean to be at all guys/gals. . i have tried for the past 2 weeks ... i had one on ebay and someone outbid me at the last minute. emailed people on this forum and the only reply i got was to buy the whole binding package and then resell just the bindings. btw, if you know where i can find a burton 4-hole cant plate and have it before my trip on january 1.. please tell me, cause i do understand it would be easier. edit, i think i perhaps have found one

I just made a big purchase (for me) of a donek fcII, i have burton race plates, and for now i'm not going to invest in TD's simply because with the cost of my trip to utah in january and the board i just don't have the money. Here's the crux of the issue, i know i need some cant, at least on my back foot, i think the burton bindings suck, but i want to make the best out of the situation as it stands.... what are all of your thoughts about making a custom cant plate out of aluminum myself, what should the footprint be to avoid deadspots and/or keep the flex pattern.... i'm concerned with doing the best i can in terms of both ride quality and board protection... so that i can put some TD's on it next season i'm going to go over to a scrap yard today hand have them cut a piece like this: i was thinking then i'd cut out the shape of the binding footprint, orient it the right way and then drill the appropriate recessed holes and tap other holes for the bindings to attach to... here's a shoddy drawing of that: so lemme know what you think, thanks -Patrick

did you end up selling all of them, i just got outbid on a cant plate on ebay, can't seem to find another anywhere