Boots

TD3 Sidewinder Standard Bindings $400 + shipping Excellent condition. These have 3 or 4 short east coast seasons on them. Show normal wear with no significant scratches. - Front and rear bails, lugs, and lug shafts are brand new and never used. - 0 or 3 dergree cants (your choice) - Yellow erings - Yellow and blue SW epads Thanks for looking, Boots

Thanks for the pics. I'm still interested sent an email.

Sent email.

My rear bail just broke. Bad timing with everyone at SES. Anyone have an extra bail they are looking to sell so I can ride sometime before the 11th. Thanks, Boots

Sold.

I bought these new/used. The liners have been molder once. Cosmetice scratches and no cracks. $100 (excludes shipping). I can take paypal.

I was having this same issue with my new boots. I'm on yellow springs and they are completely cranked, and they didn’t need to be in my old boots. I was getting no resistance from the boot and I had to push allot with my ankle to keep from bottoming out in flex. It was excessive and if I hit something I wasn’t strong enough to stop from over flexing my ankle. I had a pair of Booster Straps so I installed them. Problem magically solved. I also have chicken legs and my top straps are as tight as they go with eliminator pads installed. I think the play in the top of the leg/boot interface provided additional unproductive forward lean that was too much after the boot flex kicked in. I also think I ended up with boot deformation in the top due to all the excess space and ability of the plastic to deform without actually engaging the BTS until way late in the whole flex cycle. I think the boosters straps direct connection to my upper leg and back cuff put the BTS to work without the play in the top of the boot becoming a factor ( that’s my theory and I’m sticking to it). Anyway, the booster straps are about $30 and might be worth a shot.</SPAN> I can't speak to the heal lift installed in your boot as it seems to help with your limited flex but they always made the problem worse for me. If you start having heal lift issues again you might try the ankle wraps (</SPAN>http://www.tognar.com/boot-fitting-pads-custom-shapes-sheets-1-8-foam/</SPAN>). These were key for keeping my heals down. The molded liners alone don’t provide enough bite on my ankles to keep my heals firmly planted in the boot. Boots</SPAN>

Holy **** John! That was awsome, I can see what I'm supposed to be doing. Now let's see if I can get over the fear of chattering out on the east coast ice here this weekend. Wish I could join everyone at the SES, I'm going to have to try and make it next year.

Anyone heading to WT this weekend? I'd like to meet up with some other carvers and see if I can learn something. Boots

</SPAN> John,</SPAN> I’ve used both and there are plus and minuses to both. Overall I prefer the TD3s.</SPAN> I had the OS2's when I started. They are easier and harder to tweak all at the same time. When I started I tweaked allot because my knees were hurting and I was having difficulty figuring out why. I live in DC and I didn’t know/see any other carvers who might be able to watch me ride or look at my setup to help. I actually got rid of the OS2s and bought the TD3 SW’s because the possibilities were endless with the OS2s and it was difficult to get back to a previous setting that felt better (measuring with a tooth pick?).</SPAN> Now I’ve been tweaking to get more comfortable on the board and I long for the ease of the OS2s now that I better understand why I am making a change (sort of). I don’t play with the angles much anymore, but I occasionally like to see what the cant and lift does for me. On the TD3s you have to remove the base plate and the center disk to change lift/cant. I have size 24 boots so I also have to remove the heal block as one of the base plate screws are covered by it. Each cant disc has limited adjustments (compared to full adjustment on the OS2 with 5 screws) and if you are not sure what is going to work for you, you may need to buy/borrow multiple cant discs. Reluctance to buy more plates kept me in a carveable, but unbalanced setting for several seasons. On the plus side, if a change does not work it is much easier to get back to your previous setting than measuring with a tooth pick; and this is huge in my opinion.</SPAN> The video is good, but try playing with this thing to see what you need to do to change settings for the TD3 (you can hide the base plate to see how you would have to rotate the cant plate). http://www.alpinecarving.com/tmtd2/</SPAN> I ended up accidentally fixing my knee problem after I bought the TD3s by turning the cant plate the “wrong” way and giving myself a touch of outward cant; turns out I’m a little bow legged.</SPAN> Chris</SPAN>

First, i want to thank everyone for the responses. Lafcadio, i havent rode soft since i converted. I went all or nothing on it. My prevous soft setup was balanced. On my heels i was on my front heel; on my toes i was leaning into my boot cuff on my rear foot. I could always shift my weight front to back. I started my hard boots with 3 degrees front and back and i've stayed there since, mostly playing with angles and boot lean. But I was always heavily weighted to my front foot and i couldn't shift my weight back like i used to on my soft setup. The article you linked is actually what got me to my first full lay down carves last rear. Ill be running through some of those again tomorrow. If i can figure out my weight balance I'll try increasing my stance width. I was out yesterday and went out with the 0 disk on my front and the 3 disk on the rear. I'm also in a new pair of boots and didnt install the BTS so i could quickly change boot lean. I started with the boot lean nuetral, lean mech. At 3 front and rear, but it wasn't right. So in keeping with trying to shift my weight rear I reduced the lean on the front boot. This felt balanced over both feet, but i found i couldn't bend my knees any more so i was riding stiff. I added 1 click boot lean to front and back, 3 on front and 2 on back. I could engage my knees again and was carving well but still heavy on the front foot, but not as bad as my previous setup. I think I added high boot lean through my BTS. I'm going to swap the cant plates tomorrow, 3 degee front & 0 degree back. Intuitively this is what i was thinking, but the bomber article went opposite so i figured i would start there. Thanks for the feedback. And I am open to more experience. Boots

Thanks, I'll give it a go both ways and see which feels better.

My stance width is 18.5"+/-, and I'm 5'6". While carpet surfing I was thinking of moving the 3 degree plate to the front foot, but I placed the 0 degree on the front based on this: : https://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Choosing-Cants_ep_53-1.html - second to last paragraph. I'm on my way to CO for a week now. I can play some with the setup, but I was hoping someone had the same issue before and could help me narrow down the amount of tweaking I needed to do. I have been able to figure out how to get a more balance stance since I started.

Dave, I'd would like to meet up. I'm in CO for the next two weekends. I'll send you an e-mail.

Hey everyone, I'm new to the board but I've been lurking for a while. I made the conversion about 5 years ago and for the most part love it. But one thing that I've had a hard time solving is getting the weight off my front leg. I'm riding sidewinders with 3 degree plates front and back with a touch of outward cant. I feel like most of my weight is on my front leg and very little supported by my back leg. Has anyone else had this issue and have a recommendation to help balance my weight more? Ive got a zero degree plate that I put on my front binding (I read this on one of the setup articles), but while carpet surfing it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Im ona A prior 4wd and ride all over. Thanks, Boots

Both Cants are sold.

I have two TD2/TD3 6 degree cants I've never used. $15/ea. I would also trade one for a zero degree plate. e-mail me, C