H2O

Ok, thanks, I've understood.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=27024

Sorry, probably I don't understand: why powder carver? In flat it is possible to carve also on icy steep slopes!

Bellissimo! A perfect mix of ways to ride!

:D thank you for the valuable advices but for now I continue to ride with all the discomfort.

In my opinion in freeride/backcountry you need not only lateral flex but lightness too; so, I'd prefer Ibex (ex Burton race), F2 race titanium (size L) or F2 carve rs. I consider the Sidewinders a good binding but too heavy. I ride AT boots preferably in walk mode; or front blocked (but I've modified the original system) and rear in walk mode. AT boots are lighter than DeeLuxe, not necessary to buy DeeLuxe. I know TX ski boots (they are very close to Scarpa F2 AT boots), very good to ski and to telemark with NTN system, but for freeride/backcountry I'd prefer Scarpa F1/Dynafit TLT5 or new Garmont LiteRider (lighter and softier) With tools and time you can do everything! Also I've a wife! ... but she prefers Italian wine!

Yes, of course! Also in my opinion, to be considered: - stance (I am 175 cm and my stance is 48/49 cm) - angles/board widht (I ride normally 22-22,5 w boards, with boots mp.27, and my angles are 45°/52°) - boots/binding flex Once I rode normally narrow boards too, with toe/heel lift too, but now when I ride (sometimes in a season) narrow boards (18-19 cm w, or rarely a Pogo Stilett 184, 15 w), I set my bindings equally flat. I think I can confortably use steep angles as my boots are very flexible in forward lean (comfort) but with a good side transmission (as every hardboot). As Pokkis said before, last april in Solden I could tested some narrow boards (Virus and Oxess), with cants and lifts but i didnt like feeling, most propably due too habit to ride flat.

In Italy, location Alagna/MonterosaSki, a pass for a season (from 29/11/2010 to 01/05/2011) at 720 Euros.

No, no Tatoos, I am not offended! We just speak together. Soelden is amazing and the slope with the final wall is super! I hope see you in november (at the start of season) or next year in may.

No Tatoos! In Europe few people practice Extremecarving style and a lot of people ride in other styles such as race, virus/narrow boards style, pump, skwal, Pureboarding style, Bomber style (am I right? as we call the frontal/cant-lifted style). Even within Eurocarving style there are Swiss Style (rotational) and French Style (frontal) that set own's equipment in different way. Two times in a year (november and may) we meet in Soelden (Austria) to ride all together. There are also some manufacturers (Sigi Grabner, Virus, Kessler, Goltes, Oxess, F2, Pogo, Rabanser, etc) and athletes. I ride from '85 and I am not only infected Extremecarving Swoard style. Recently also the National Snowboard School promotes to new instructor courses a flat hardbooter setting. I agree. I don't agree; probably on the carpet but not on the snow, with a softer setting and with a right stance. Here is the point. Depends by your style. As for example, in EC style you must keep the knees flexed and don't put them together; you should feel both of your heels/tibias pushing on the edge with the same strength. And of course, the movements should start from the hips. But, I've read also: someone recommends a setting with outward canting in the rear ( http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm ) , someone (if I've understood well) recommends a riding with the knees apart (and not stuck together) http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/seperate_zee_knees.cfm ; what do you think about?

Yes, I agree. In the AT world there is more research and development (weight and materials) than in hard snowboarding. I think could be a short distance between modern AT boots and a good snowboard boot. Should be sufficient to shorten the sole lenght and to add a good spring system...I think Scarpa is working about; about the stifness, I think all is possible with the modern materials (phebax, etc, etc). I tried Dalbello Virus Tour but on skis; it works very well and they are more comfortable. They are very close to other Dalbello boots...ultimately very close to the ancient Raichle Flexon used also in snowboarding.

I've understood what you are saying. I think it's a simple body adjustment thanks to the boot forward flex; the body is free to move with a softer setting but the transmission is more direct (and in respect of the joints) without any cant/lift. Cant/lift, in my opinion, plaster the body in a comfortable position (especially using stiff hardboots) but at the same time reduce the movement ability. So, why in softboots isn't necessary cant/lift? I think we can talk endlessly but at the end I'll continue to ride flat, and you with cant/lift....except want to try different settings.

I use Head Stratos (softened and with the ACSS spring system) for majority of my riding. In this season I've bought a pair of DeeLuxe AF 700 that I've modified with a spring system; they work well and the sole length is shorter than Head (I've bought 26.5 mp instead 27 mp as they are very comfortable). UPZ: a lot of friends switched from Head to Upz (ATB or RC10 softened in forward flex/tongue and with a changed spring system) and they are very satisfied (shorter sole lenght, fit, feeling, lower cuffs as Head). I tried but they don't fit well my feet. In freeride/backcountry I prefer AT boots like Garmont Megalite as: - they are lighter than snowboard boots (better to go to uphill) - vibram sole (better for walking and climbing) - compatible Dynafit binding toe inserts as to go up we use snowshoes or preferably mini skis (about 110 cm) with skins. To ride on hard pack they are stiff enough. Other people in Italy use Scarpa F1 (lighter, my favourite but must be modified) or F3, or new Maestrale. They are AT boots but also Scarpa and Vibram are testing to improve them for snowboard with the TD and coach of italian snowboard national team

Passed my age (49); a good winter season in Italy!

In basic position, facing the same direction as the feet. Here a short video (not mine) about the basic position in flat bindings (not mine) I like it and flat feels good. I agree also on should master all techniques and use them as needed.

Yes, I've found! I normally ride with Head Stratos with ACSS spring system and now also with a new pair of DeeLuxe AF700 with a new spring system for DeeLuxe that works very well http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8443&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 In freeride/backcountry (with Pogo Shaman Swallowtail 193 or longboards) I ride with an old pair of DeeLuxe LeMans (front with a spring system and rear completely in walk-mode, without any system) and with modified AT Garmont MegaLite.

I agree, and which is for you the ideal boot?

BlueB, I've told: "in my opinion". Your considerations are very interesting, but (in my opinion): - I am not a racer; a race setting is more counter-rotated; - all the boards in the photo are setted with plates (the plate don't bends, and so, also I think it is useful to set the bindings with cant/lift to have a comfortable stance); - with flat bindings (mounted at zero set-back and with the boot setted at the same calf canting) my chest is facing the same direction as the feet and my gravity center is in the region of the hips; I find this position less fatiguing for joints and with a straight transmission; - the comfortable stance is allowed also (not only) by the board bending and by the boots with a good forward flex); the body is free to move and not in a preseted position; - there are other rotational carving styles which recommend cant/lift at rear binding (as Pureboarding, I rode with them for about 2 seasons) and the basic position is a bit different than a flat setting but always sounds good; - I think that basically the setting may be considered a personal preference and every consideration is valid. Congratulations for the layed turn!

I agree!

Also I've done as here http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1034&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 and here http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1034&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15 pag. 1 and 2 and here http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1034&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30 pag. 3 and http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1034&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45 pag.4 The system works very well.

I tried the yellow springs too stiff, also on DeeLuxe LeMans. I've made the modifications (adding also ACSS spring system) as here http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1034&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 and http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2234 As you can see, the ACSS is fully integrated in the boot while the BTS remains too bulky, especially in backside turns, and during forward flex don't work well.

In my opinion, after having tryed a lot of setting solutions: bindings FLAT on the board! Cant and lift allow a wider stance but they harm significantly the correct body movement and edge control. Furthermore, the board bending during the turns already induces a canting under both feet. It's possible to use a wider stance using softer boots (as for example I am 174 cm and my stance is 48-49 cm).

I love all my boards! ... and my favorite is the Pogo Shaman 193!

I ride (freeride) with garmont MegaLite on a Pogo Shaman 193 swallowtail (binding F2 race titanium). I am thinking to go to Dynafit TLT5 or Scarpa F1 (lighter) .... or the new scarpa Alien. With this setting I dont use more softboots!

I like 22-22,5 cm wide boards for carving and in part you're right. I think it is more easy for a manufacturer to produce a narrow board about torsional stiffness (important feature for carving and edge hold); in my opinion it is more difficult to produce wide boards with torsional stiffness and longitudinal flex....but it isn'i impossible and on the market there are good carving wide boards (like Donek Blade, Swoard, custom made Tropical Tube, Coiler VSR FC or F2 Vantage) To carve (also lie down turns) with wide boards is important to use a rotational technique and a proper setting (boots and bindings); these boards are slower in the edge-to-edge and more difficul to put in the edge at about 90° than narrow boards but with also a cross-under technique (push-pull) they become incredibly fast.