Jack M

Hi bdurgin, welcome to the site. The TD2s give you about a thousand more canting options than Burtons. The way it works is you select either a 3 or 6 degree disc (or 0 if you want flat) and then you can rotate the disc in increments of 5 degrees. This rotation is of the cant disc only - your binding angle (aka stance angle) can stay the same. As you rotate the cant disc with respect to the board and to your binding angle, you get varying amounts of cant and/or heel/toe lift. You can arrange it so you have pure lift and no cant, pure cant and no lift, or anywhere in between. The only limitation is having to choose between a 3 or 6 degree disc slope angle, but these choices fill the bill for many if not most people. If you're used to the cant wedge that Burton supplies with its bindings, I'd recommend the 6 degree Bomber disc. Otherwise the 3 degree disc is a safe bet. Mixing Bomber and Burton bindings on the same board is NOT recommended. Also, it is important to note that TD2s have a unique dampening system where your binding is essentially "floating" on an elastomer ring. It makes for a much smoother ride than the first generation TD. There is a choice of soft, medium, or hard rings. Coming from Burtons, you'll want the soft. Feel free to post questions like this, that's a big part of what this forum is for.

Baka, thanks for the spell checker, that's pretty cool. Although it didn't catch "unecesary", but it did catch "unecessary". Here's a priceless rule that's easy to remember: It's "it's" when it is, it's "its" when it's not.

totally can be done at home, but you'll have to do the whole liner. follow the instructions at yyzcanuck.com

Hey, Knight Rider's in da house! check out the articles here in the Tech Articles section on "The Norm"

that poor horse! et qu'est-ce que c'est "poutine"?

1991 PJ7 - currently residing in my basement.

oh wow...

hmm, well I guess if they keep pumping out the Unibroue, they can have a pass.

http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/feel_the_carve.cfm http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/setup.cfm

Is that what I've heard called "Canenglish"?? :p I think the softer ones might get some more life out of the bails, but the ride will be softer. Try it and see - it's easy enough to mount/dismount Burton bindings.

I got a friendly response from the seller. He actually runs a unique snowboarding website - www.snowboardingforgrownups.com - good idea!

1990 - white/pink/grey, asym tail, symmetrical nose 1991 - marble notebook, colored tail, fully asym 1992 - roses 1993 - sawblades 1994 - solid colors with 6-shooter revolver on tail 1995 - R.I.P. 92 & 93 tie for coolest graphics!

The shortest Prior 4WD is 159 and is 21.5cm at the waist. The F2 is 21.8cm. The shortest Coiler AM is 169. She also said she wants to be able to ride everywhere, so the width of the F2 should be fine. As for TDs being too stiff, I would say yes, the TD1s she has are too stiff. The TD2s will be much better, and it sounds like she could use them - she's breaking her Emery's.

Since you said you want to be able to ride everywhere, I'd recommend an F2 Speedcross 154, sold here. And the new generation of Bomber bindings, the TD2 has waaay more adjustability than the old ones - you would be able to ride flat, or with heel or toe lift only, or a blend of lift and cant. It also has a very functional dampening system - the binding is "floating" on an elastomer ring which comes in 3 hardnesses. I think the soft ring would be just what you need. For more information on how to select a board and setting up bindings, check out the Welcome Center.

If your slopes are narrow or crowded (which I've heard they are in Japan, no?) - Donek 179fcII. Same 11.2m radius as the 171, plus 8cms for your density. 19.5cm waist for your dogs. Or a Prior 4WD 179 - 10.5m radius, 21.4cm waist. Actually I just noticed on Prior's site that they've got a discounted package deal on a new board with TD2s. That WCR175 is worth a look too. nice to "see" you again!

Hmm, PMA can be everything. If she doesn't want to start in hardboots and you coerce her into it, she may become determined not to enjoy it. I'd make a compromise with her and ask her to try day one in softies, and day two in hardies.

YES (article)

Interesting, I hadn't read that part of the CA yet. As for rotating into the turn, there are two schools of thought there. But first of all, I don't think this advice applies to toeside turns. Rotating the upper body into the turn on toeside (clockwise for a regular-footer, viewed from above) is very old technique that often leads to bending over at the waist. Back to the two schools of heelside technique. Some people like to face their upper body towards the nose of the board, which is the same thing as saying "leading the board by about 30 degrees". Some like to face their binding angles. The difference is whichever works for you. They are both fine techniques. However for newbies, it is often necessary to tell them to face the nose because they're facing the toeside edge and they don't realize it. Facing the edge is bad and leads to the dreaded "toilet-sit". By trying to face the nose, they may end up facing their bindings, which is fine. <b>Often you have to tell people to overshoot the target in order for them to hit the target.</b> This may be their rationale when saying look uphill - maybe they're just trying to break the bad habit of looking straight down the fall line. Nobody actually looks <i>uphill</i> during a carve, maybe just once to check for traffic. Now, on toeside, I am a fan of facing the nose. IMO, facing the bindings makes it harder to do the hip-drop, harder to angulate, and easier to bend over at the waist like this. Many people face their binding angles on toeside and do fine. I just think that for a newbie it is too easy to develop bad habits doing it. If you want to try a little drill to make yourself face the nose, try grabbing your rear boot cuff with your front hand as you make a toeside carve. Whenever I feel my toesides getting sloppy, I do this and I get that nice hip-drop pencil-pinching feeling back and the carves feel good again. -Jack

Get those images out of your head for now. You will not be getting that low, and do not try to, you will end up bending over at the waist and reaching for the snow. A few simple things to remember, in no particular order: 1 - when you are <i>carving</i>, you are not <i>steering</i> the board with your feet. you are letting the board do all the work. 2. Your upper body should never be more leaned in to the turn than your lower body (a common bad habit). This picture referenced above actually shows a guy reaching for the snow. His upper body is slightly leaned over more than his lower body, and the carve isn't <i>bad</i>, but there's no need for him to be reaching down to the snow. This is a much better toeside carve. Or look at Baka's avatar - same idea, he's pretty far over, but he isn't touching the snow and his shoulders are mostly level. 3. LOOK where you want to go - which is <i>not</i> straight down the hill, look into the carve. This should probably be number one if this list was ordered. 4. Do not swivel at the waist. A good way to tell if you are is if your front hand swings back and forth across the nose of the board when changing edges.

Winter - anyone you know?

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In theory, when you heat mold the liners, that extra space you see in the boot now should go away; the liners should fill the shell, and I'm betting the boots will fit you perfectly.

Not really a wipeout term, but it's usually followed by one - when you go off a jump and your balance is off in mid-air, instead of grabbing the stylish grab you had intended, you wave your arms around in a circular motion. This is called "rolling down the windows". Another one I like for a wipeout that has you cartwheeling or tumbling a good distance, rather than just sliding, is "egg-beater". A good one usually reserved for death, but often applied to wipeouts is "bought the farm".

Heh - totally. I've heard this can bounce the chair and cause a derailment.

Holy crap!!