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FYI I have reposted a link to our discussion here on the SG facebook page, maybe Sigi will see it. I just want them to learn and improve the boards, they are near perfect boards but useless if we destroy the inserts. Bottom line: an easy fix in manufacturing and then they are 100% perfect, end of discussion.

I wish that SG would have Elan make just one tweak; put inserts in from the bottom of the core with a large footprint/base much like a T-nut then lamenate the P-tex, sidewalls and Titanal over it all. It's how Burton has made boards from the 90s on, I remember when they came with T-nuts in the base, my 1988 Crusier 165 was on of the first without T-nuts in the base. How come a $1400 board that is by all other measures among the best in the world not have insert technoligy that is 20+ years old? No matter what binding is used this problem has to be addressed. Everett

Guys, I heard some interesting things at my race yesterday (Copper) a buddy of mine said he riped inserts out of a kessler using TD3s.... I REPEAT TD3s! Second that SGs are made by Elan (heard that elsewhere) but because Elan normaly makes freestyle boards they only drill into the core from the topsheet and not use full inserts like they should- as I suspected. I think it can happen no matter what binding you use, that said I have bought 2 sets of TD2s and a VIST plate (for my other SG 175 that I have not wrecked yet), I don't know what else to do. Everett

Thanks, I hope to hear about the VIST plate and the TD2s next.

Hi are the TD2s and the VIST plate still availble? I am in Denver and can pay for shipping. Thanks, Everett

Hi are these still availble? And how much? I am in Denver and can pay for you to ship them. Drop me a line; evnewsphoto@yahoo.com Thanks, Everett

Reid, e-mail sent your way and let me know how much you want for the TD2s, hold off on shipping the board, Everett

Thanks for the kind thoughts and yes I agree most folks here are kind and mean well, I just was getting fed up with the second guessing about what I can't un-do, and no one offering solutions. I did see your post for the bindings that I was too late on, I hope someone else steps up. Thanks, Everett

I am looking to update my binding set up and want to buy TD2s or TD3s, preferably step ins so I don't have to buy the kit, anybody want to help me out? I will sell the TD1s after I get the new bindings as I can't ride without them. They are both in great shape and have new parts like the step in reciver and new bumpers for one of them. I can post pics if needed but wanted to put out feelers first. If you have a set for sale drop me a line, Everett evnewsphoto@yahoo..com

Like I said if anybody has TD2s they want to sell me great, I need two pairs. Anything else I will probably break, especially Burton plates, I snaped those all the time, about once a month, it's why I went to TD1s in the first place. I just don't know what to do in the meantime, until I am lucky enough to find some used ones. I did buy back my Oxygen so I will ride that instead and I guess I'll try to send this board back and wait and hope. I will also have to wait and hope for bindings too. Can you mount the TD1 upper plate onto the TD2 or TD3 base? I could always buy the parts from bomber. Everett

Refund sent Reid and take care. Everett

I can't win can I? I am not even that sure it would do anything since another person posted here that even while useing the spacer plate they still broke the board. I guess I'll return it to Ace.

Well I guess you guys do mean well and I appreciate it, I let the first "stupid award" comement go but it did seem like everyone just wanted to pile on. So I doubt I could sell the bindings given how much everyone here hates them and I am 3 days away from a race and don't think I can drive up and see Fin and blow $600 for bindings, I am stuck with what I've got. My caoch (Matt Drinker) offered to loan me his F2 for the race and I am still waiting to hear back from the SG office but doubt they'll help me anyways. That is why I stoped at Ace hardware and bought M6 T-nuts, longer M6 screws and some acyrilic plexiglass to put between the binding. Also the new Bumpers arrived today from Micheal and I have got those all set. I guess long term I will try to switch but it's late in the season and I don't see anybody selling used TD3s very ofter and rarely see VIST plates either (something else I have thought of) and when they are for sale go very quick. I had a bad experience with the Donek plate last year so that is why I shyed away from plates and went back to basics and was having great results with it until now. I see all you guys telling me what to do but no one offering to sell me TD3s cheap either. By the way all of your concerns over injuries are nice but I have had so many bindings pop open or break durning the 90s that I know it's not that scary, just sit down and slide. If someone wants to help sell me stuff cheap and buy my TD1s then great, but otherwise tell me what you think of the T-nut option in the meantime since that is more realistic. Everett

So you think it's OK for everybody to attack me? I can't turn back the clock but even the "Moderator" is saying I am stupid. I have already ordered new bumpers from Micheale and after I put T-nuts in I think that should work, I give up on talking to you guys. I can't understand why no one else except Kburrill who started this thread, thinks these boards should hold up better and not break so easliy. You guys must all enoy spending top dollar for things that break.

Why does everyone keep insulting my intelligence on here? Me breaking my board is upsetting enough, insults are not needed. I stated that it fell out I think, not sure, that is different from me not installing it correctly. I am sorry I don't live up to all of you anal retentive a-holes who spend hours inspecting and polishing their high end equipment, I have two young kids, a job and a life, I am lucky I get to ride, train and race at all! I expect a board that cost more than a mortgage payment to at least not shatter after two months of normal use, is that asking for too much?

One thing that may have been a factor but I am not sure, is that one of my rubber bumpers was missing (fell out at some point) I starting to think that is why my other SG is fine, all of the bumpers are in place. The bumpers probably distribute the downword force and help relieve the stress on the inserts and the center disc. Like I said Fin designed a great binding in the first place even though he is still perfecting it you can't say that there was much wrong with TD1s. Not sure if a wider disc matters that much since it was the inserts that lifted up and failed. That's why I don't think it was those alone, could have been a lot of little things. Oh well.... Everett

Jburrill glad you weighed in, sorry I have hyjacked your post hope that's OK with you. Your tale has me really hesitating to spend what could be $50-100 in shipping to have the guys in Austria say sorry but we don't like what binding you put on. I have been emailing with someone at the "office" and they already said that my binding had a "special" abilty to break boards. So that is why it's good to hear that you had success with a T-nut approach which I am inclined to do. I should clarify by the way that by flimsy bails I mean snowpro type of bindings like a lot of folks use for flex, they remind me of the old Burton plates which I broke constantly. TD1s have worked well for me for a long time and an't broke so why fix em? I also have no problems with them on my other SG so don't think it's that either. And as far as switching bindings and buying a new SG, that would be way more than I can afford, at least $2000 or so, it's not like Fin will let me trade in the TD1s. Like I said it's an insert failure I believe and I think the same thing happened to you as well, the fact that you T-nuted and had no further problems backs that up also. I understand that you guys all want me to trow away my TD1s and drop lot's of money but I can't do that, and I have won plenty of races on them and love the results I get with them. First and foremost I will see what the SG warranty folks say then I may be getting out the drill. By the way Jburrill, what T-nut did you use? I have used and was going to again use M6 T-nuts from Ace hardware and then base weld over them, I don't know anywhere I get those fancy high end ones with P-tex on the bottom in time for my race on Saturday and don't think I'll get my Proton back by then either. I guess you guys can call me stupid all you want I just am trying to find a solution and something I can afford. Everett

So I am supposed to throw away the best bindings I ever had and use something flimsy that I'll be snapping bails on once a month? I also don't feel like shelling out $700 for 2 new bindings (TD 3s) or ride an older board. Some riders use stiff boots and soft bindings, or stiff plates with soft bindings, I have found stiff bindings with loose/softer boots works best for me. I don't think my set up is that extreme and I think there has to be a solution. I also have begun to realize my failure was the inserts pulling out from the core, not the Titanal breaking, that happened after the inserts lifted out of the core. The damning thing is the fact that one of the inserts fell out, that is something wrong with the core, not the top sheet and titanal. I am waiting to hear back from the warranty folks at SG now but we'll see. In the meantime I think I'll have to go to another board, hope I get my Oxygen back. Everett

Yeah I guess it can "just happen." The board I had before and hope to get back was an Oxygen Proton and it had a Titanal butterfly on the top of the board below the top sheet with a cap on the sides, I think this is probably a better constuction method and held up fine with my TD1s. I only went to the SG because I love my 175 so much and did notice a slight difference when switching back and forth due to the lack of a decambered nose on the Oxygen and maybe the sidecut geometry (varible on SG versus fixed on Proton). I think Sigi should think about caping in the Titanal or put a layer of fiberglass or something between the core, the titanal and the topsheet, afterall so many people are using plates what's another layer? Or maybe build in a reforcement around the inserts. I was shocked that one of my inserts just fell out at some point, there's an open hole there now, it's probably sitting on Chute (the trail) at Eldora where I was training Slalom on Saturday. I think these boards (SGs and Kesslers) are amazing and own the podiums for sure, but there has to be a stronger way to get the snap of titanal without the fragile topsheet and inserts, like I said Oxygen figured it out in 2008. I should email Sean Martin and ask him what he's doing with the Revs to keep them from breaking, I almost bought one of those instead and I like Sean a lot, my GS board before the SG was a Donek.

Reid, I sent you an email offering a full refund to buy the board back and have not heard a reply, I don't know if you are ignoring me because you are angry but I am happy to end things in a civil manner, please email me or respond here. I stand by the board so much that I will take it back and use it myself. I don't know if you ever rode it but I hope you can send it back asap so I can ride it again, it's a great board and I want it back. Everett

Dave, thanks for the support, I think. Good to know that the "spacer" might not have saved me, also interesting that you had a larger disc also. I used Cats once (before they were Cateks) and think Jeff made a good binding also. Was your break round like mine at the inserts (under the disc) or was it along the spacer? I asked Sigi on Facebook what he thought about my binding combo given that he himself uses Bombers (Sidewinders I believe) I haven't heard back yet given it's middle of the night in Austria I'll let you know if he thinks I am "stupid" also.

Well I heard direct from Sigi, and he said to try the office and ask them, here is what he wrote; We need the serial number and a photo, then the Quality Control at the factory checks the damage. If it is due to a production default, the board is replaced. The Titanal issue is something else - there are riders who are handling their boards carelessly, so we want to check FIRST. Concerning the "board sent back" - do you have more specific information? By whom? what board, when? In general the warranty claims are responded rapidly and in most of the cases positively. Just we dont like rumours, I hope you understand. I guess they missed what happened with jburrill I also wonder what his final outcome was as well since I have hijacked his post? I will wait a few days and see what they say before I drill for T-nuts. Everett

I may have been riding for 25 years but this is only the second SG I have bought and had no problems with the other board. I did not buy it at a dealer I bought direct from a SG sponsered rider who got ot direct from Sigi. I am not stupid but I also didn't look into past problems, that is my fault. I love the boards but feel they should hold up better. Everett

Guys, thanks for the advice, I think I will have to re-drill it with some T-nuts as that is the simplest way to work around the problem, I have done this before with another board that was really old to mount the Donek plate I had last year. I can't believe that this board was so fragile. I also can tell you that at Slalom speeds I'll be riding at I won't get hurt. Back in the day of bad bindings I had plenty of Burton race plates break and or pop open, even once when I raced in the US Open (they had raceing once upon a time). I know it sounds a bit scary but that is no biggie to me, what's more important is fixing it, it's too good a board to write off. Epoxy won't work, T-nut is the only option.

Given that it won't be replaced via warranty I think I should at least try to repair it in some fashion. Should I use regular epoxy or perhaps something stronger? My coach was talking about "gorilla glue" which I guess is used on concrete, anybody try that? I have seen the hardbooter.com video on making the spacer and I can try that at least aslo. Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread? Did he ever get his board back or is still sitting in Austria? Wondering if he attempted a repair if he did get it back.