Corey
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Posts posted by Corey
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What's the modern equivalent of the old Silverfish forums? I learned a lot on there.
I've had a Loaded Vanguard, Roe Racing Triton, and a no-name pintail with Waterborne Surf Adapters. I'm loving the Waterborne and am trying them on a shorter pintail this summer. I might also try them on my old vintage 80's Skull Skates board for a laugh.
All flatland (where I live!) and low speeds for me, so the super-turny Waterborne seems to be just what I wanted.
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Also, many people compare those that are among the best at their chosen style with intermediate riders doing the style they don't like. This validates that it's hard to be really good at either skill, not that your favorite style is "better".
That EC Stoked video 100% got me into hardboots! I can't do it, but they make it look so fluid and fun!
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3 hours ago, TimW said:
Another note on the forward lean selector: in walk mode it is still limited in forward flex and cannot move further forward than the locked 5th position.
I was able to pull mine completely apart with hand pressure only. It takes surprisingly little force to slip past those little plastic tabs.
Maybe the design has changed in the last 10 years since I did this, but I doubt it.
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Heelside 360!
And I love the groomer ball slough pelting Martina!
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Got a digital level or angle finder you can throw across the toe and heel blocks? That'll help narrow down how extreme you need.
I bet those plastic hoof shims (that the Montucky crew found) would add what you need to a 6-degree TD3 cant disc. Cut to fit under toe and heel blocks, add longer screws.
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On 4/1/2023 at 11:35 AM, barryj said:
Only the uneducated as most people just don't know the risk!
I'm 100% in the uneducated camp. I've heard about tree wells but assumed you had to be much closer - like hitting the tree. We just don't get that amount of snow here, nor trees that far apart.
Thanks for posting! I know a bit more now!
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12 hours ago, Neil Gendzwill said:
Do you think there's enough force generated to trouble a 5/16" stainless bolt?
Good point - heck no!
But there is a common thought that stainless steel is stronger than even a grade 5 bolt - it's not!
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Nice work Wolf! Fin just woke up in a cold sweat from his afternoon nap, feeling a disturbance in the Force...
Get a bolt long enough that the unthreaded shank runs almost to the end of the lug, so the lug isn't pulling on the threads. Then trim to match.
FYI, a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt is stronger than stainless, but they corrode if water gets on them.
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Glad to hear you're making progress!
Sadly, that board is done and unsafe to use. You won the lottery by not getting hurt with that failure!
Save up and try a newer board for next season.
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If the bolt tightens fully, doesn't allow the lug to move laterally off the bigger shaft, and it isn't pinching the lugs against the toe block - I'd ride with that.
Getting new bolts is preferred though!
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Short/frantic boards are SOOO much fun when you're in the mood. Twitchy, energetic, snappy, etc. When you're not in the mood they're tiring and amplify any mistakes.
My Donek MK makes me smile (and breathe hard!) at boring little hills. But some days it's too much for me. I don't take it when I go to actual mountains and only have room for 3 boards.
Are helicoils ok in a Madd's brass inserts? I can't imagine there's much T-nut left in the board...
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Wow, that looks awful lamby!
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2 hours ago, patmoore said:
Carrying my board yesterday I heard a guy yell, "Wow, a monster powder ski!"
Ha! I very regularly carry 2 boards to the rack, locking one up for a quick change if I feel like it. They're usually quite different, which leads to people thinking I have weird mismatched skis. Funny conversations ensue!
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11 hours ago, philw said:
opportunity for a custom clothing business...
See Pureboarding for some burly stuff if that's your bag.
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There are probably more softboot carvers than hardbooters right now.
There are more people that watch fishing videos on YouTube too, so maybe all of snowboarding is dying?
The success of hardbooting is not threatened by the success of softboot carving. So I say cool, pick the equipment you want!
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Sitting in lodge for lunch, guy walks up and vaguely points to my boots: "Are those for cross country? The pins in the heel?"
Liftie: "Oh, you're the guy with the fancy boots!" I just said "Yeah"
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4 hours ago, st_lupo said:
Is that spray-on Plastidip different than the other spray-on rubber paints? It is a bit harder for me to get a hold of Plastidip but I tried a similar looking spray-on rubber paint that I could get locally on my mittens. It probably lasted half a run before it turned into black ribbons.
That sounds less good.
Sorry, I'm no chemologist. Though I didn't like Plastidip for gloves either. They contact more often and with more pressure than knees and hips for me.
Here are two notes I saved from the old Bomberonline forum on reinforcing clothes - I believe from European people: (anyone clever enough to be able to dig those out of some archive?)
1. Biresin U1303A resin from Sika mixed with their U1402B hardner. Without any pigment, this will leave a milky white finish. Honestly, it looks like a white goo was spilled over you. Another alternative is Biresin U1406A + U1406B as it is more clear with an amber tint. I recommend just buying a few grams of paint pigment that match whatever you want to protect. If you are buying PU the seller should be able to recommend what pigment would work the best. Issue #1 with PU is with the minimum order. We had to buy a couple of kilos and split it up between us.
2. Maybe a US equivalent? http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubber-an/c6_1117_1148/index.html
Full thread: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/42738-beef-up-your-gloves-polyurethane-how-to/#entry434918Plastidip is relatively cheap and available easily in Canada in spray or brush form. About looks: I only use Shoe Goo for gloves/mitts. My non-alpine friends comment on how hideous the Shoe Goo is any time they see my mitts, but have never commented on the Plastidip on a jacket or pants.
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3 hours ago, lafcadio said:
Corey, about how many days do you get with Plastidip before it needs to be re-applied?
I haven't tracked. Probably 30+ days? My hip and knee don't have much pressure on them except for hero snow days, which is less abrasive than -30 cord. It lasts long enough that I don't really think about it.
I did clear on my previous pants, but just went with black on these orange pants as the clear looked a little funny.
The EC guys were using some urethane casting stuff that sounded awesome but I ran out of desire to source it and this seems good enough.
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1 hour ago, Odd Job said:
Nothing in the market will last you over 100 days if you drag.
Probably true. Have 30 minutes to reapply sometime in that 100 days?
Shoe Goo seems to last indefinitely on snow if you can keep the edges stuck and don't mind how rigid it is and how it looks.
Then again, 100 riding days for me is multiple years.
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I use plastidip spray on the knee of my pants and the hip of my jacket. Works well for this and if you take the time to carefully mask the border it looks decent.
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12 hours ago, Jarcode said:
"I'm pretty sure if I put a marble in your trench, it would make it down to the lift"
That's awesome!
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Sorry, no direct experience for these. I just recall chatting with Fin and he said he got them made and ordered a BIG amount that scared him.
In my professional life one solution to a problem was custom M22 bolts. There were roughly 2x the price of similar bolts and had something like a 5-month lead time. Minimum order was 1000 or so. Likely more for smaller bolts.
This was pre-pandemic though so probably a 24-month lead time now...
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They're custom made. Pricing isn't awful when you buy enough, but the factory's idea of 'enough' is a scary number for us regular folks.
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55 minutes ago, Rob Stevens said:
don’t trench the takeoffs and landings.
That's my rule. It would have annoyed me when I was trying to learn a new trick so I choose to not mess up someone else's day.
It is funny seeing the virgin cord at 3 PM between the elements - not even a heelside bulldozer down those areas! I say carve those areas up!
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I Ditched The BTS And I LIKE IT!!
in Carving Central
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Amen to this. I buckle my boots a few lift towers before the top, step in as the board touches snow, and go.
At one local hill, I'll clip in and immediately jump off a side berm and straight into the run. If you go down the ramp, you had to skate back to the start of the run. Stupid hill design, but it is what it is.
The shorter your runs are, or the more times you're in and out, the more benefits step-ins have. If I only rode places with vertical listed in thousands of feet, I'd explore toe clips. Clipping in/out every 7-8 minutes gets old fast.