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~tb

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  1. So, if the monitor's tube weighs X and the surface area is X*the square of the surface area, and that resultant equals anything more than the surface tension and mass of the water, it will sink. If the surface area is greater than the mass*the surface tension and mass of the water, it will float.

    Bob,

    I disagree with your surface area theory. Maybe it is how it is done in the kayak industry, but this is purely a displacement problem. Take a cube and a sphere of equal mass and volume (V= 1m^3 and M=2kg). The cube has more surface area comming in at 6m^2 in comparison to the sphere at 4.835976. When submerged in the water they displace the same amount.

    now lets make them bouyant at say .95 kg for the same 1 m^3 of volume. they will both float. They will both float with the same volume suspended ABOVE water.

    Disagree?!?!? Show me your work that you can give me a plausable situation where the cube, with its increased surface area floats while the sphere with its decreased surface area sinks.

    ~tb

  2. isnt this a snowboarding site?

    yeah, but I already know that my snowboard floats!

    . . . that, and I figure this is the kind of brain teaser Jack, Bob and myself would throw out on a chairlift ride up. Then proceed to get into a fight about the answer, drop a few "no you idiot(s)" and then get off the lift and back to riding.

  3. If you are in a boat and are holding a rock, say about 10 lbs and about 1 foot in diameter, and you toss the rock into the water. Will the water level rise? Or fall?

    assuming that the rock is more dense than water, and therefore sinks, then the water level will go down (don't have the time or want to figure out the density of said rock and how it compares to water). When the rock is in the boat, it displaces its weight in water, which is of lesser density than rock. When the rock is in the water, it displaces its volume in water, not its mass. Therefore the water level goes down.

    if those numbers work out that the rock actually floats. . . then the water level stays the same.

    Good enough.

    and oh yea. . . computer monitor answer and video to follow tomorrow morning.

    ~tb

  4. all I have to say is that it is damn close. . .

    There is a big sealed tube in there, but the weight of the monitor all together including a big transformer is close to the weight of the water that the monitor displaces.

    It makes it a great engineering judgement call. I asked 40 engineers this question and asked for an answer on the spot. No time to go look at spec sheets, or even lift up the monitor. I got 19 floats, 20 sinks and one no thank you.

  5. If you take a 1997 17" CRT computer monitor, in perfectly working order and throw it in the water (fresh water), will it sink or float?

    The moniter will be set in the water, let fill through the vents, pushed under to a depth of 1' and then let sit for 2 minutes. After the 2 minutes, the evaluation of float or sink will be observed. What say you engineering geeks?

    (I have already done the experiment, and have the video to show the end results)

    ~tb

    PS: Before you ask why the hell would you do this. . .well. . . we were cleaning out, and there happened to be a monitor that NO ONE WANTED. It was going to the dump . . .and someone said, "eh, just throw it in the water." Then we started arguing if it would be and effective disposal method or not as half of us said it would float, half of us argued it would sink. . . only one way to find out.

  6. slalom skiing fills the carving fix. . . wakeboarding is more fun. There are alot of similar body mechanics, and some things that are COMPLETELY opposite (upper body). Its also like carving that when the water is nice and smooth (hill groomed) that I would rather slalom ski (alpine). as soon as it gets chewed up, onto the wake board for the air.

    my wife has some pics of the boat here:

    http://www.ourwalden.net/skiboat/

    we have changed some stuff, and added some equipment to it (wakeboard tower) since these pics. Ill try to get some recent wakeboarding and slalom pics off the home computer tonight.

    ~tb

  7. Mike,

    the braking point for me was the fact that I still watch approximately 50% of my viewing in 4 by 3 format which means, shadowboxes on the side of my screen. In the plasma, this will burn in after some time and cause your 16 by 9 material to not look good. One of my friends has a plasma that really shows this behavior, and he watches only about 25% 4 by 3. If this is truly a home theatre setup where you are going to be watching greater than 90% of the material in 16 by 9, then I would probably go for the plasma. Any more than 10% in 4 by 3, go for the dlp (or even a projector if the room is dark enough).

    Just my 2 cents. . .

    Oh, and I believe willy asked if the DLP is that much better than a rear projection HDTV. . . well . . . as always it depends. The off angle viewing of the DLP is FAR superior to the traditional rear projection unit but from front on, is only a little better in my opinion. I have only looked at a couple HDTV rear projectors, as in my room the viewing angle of the DLP was a must!

    -Todd

  8. alright. . . I work for bose, and wont touch the audio conversation with a 10' pole. Its a great company, keeps a roof over my head, and a board under my feet. What more can I ask for! They also have a great class for employees on critical listening that is quite difficult to pass. I sat in on a class or two, but havent taken it yet. Really opens up your eyes as to what to listen for in an "audio system" and to and how to listen.

    But anyhow. . .as for TV's . . . I just recently got my 46" samsung DLP and love the thing. Great picture. . . and no burn in. . . And the screen door effect is not unique to DLP's. ANY digital TV that you sit too close to will look like crap. There is only some much information in a HDTV signal, spreading it out over a screen that is too large for the viewing distance will have a negative impact. My 46" is debatably large for my viewing distance.

    All the different HDTV's have their strengths and weaknesses. Choose wisely for what you wish to accomplish in your space. Best picture though . . . The sony wega tube . . . phenominal . . . but heavy and big.

    Gotta give samsung customer service props though. . . light engine came with a small issue that I didnt like (ghosting on high contrast lines). . . service was out the next day, replaced the light engine with a newer generation light engine. . . and left me the bulb out of the one they took out.

    back to some waterskiing!

    hope all are having a great off season!

    -Todd

  9. I have ridden a handful of BX boards, but normally with plates. Hence my lack of opinion on this thread. My opinion on them is that they are great for their purpose, but their purpose doesnt entertain me. . . so I ride dedicated race/carve gear. As soon as I Get into the conditions you describe. . . I head for the bar!

    but based on the focus question . . . . I would personally grab the Rad Air Tanker 2000. But that wasn't in the list.

    -Todd

  10. That is very true jack . . . But shape is probably the least important factor here in my honest opinoin. If you want to say that the waist width of the incline is closer to that of the madd BX (correction to my earlier post, I have not ridden the madd BX) then you might have a valid point. . .

    maybe we should include both the axis and incline to this comparison, but then don't leave out prior AMF!

  11. I don't normally ride any of the boards in question. I normally just stick to dedicated hard boot stuff, but I find it interesting that this thread is comparing the donek incline against the prior 4wd and coiler AM. Wouldnt it make more sense to compare and contrast them to the Donek Axis? Just curious.

    -Todd

    PS: I have ridden all of the boards in question, I just spend too much time dedicated to groomers to have a valuable opinion on this topic.

  12. alright, might be dumb, but I thought I would start.

    Was flipping through the pics and noticed . . . hey, isn't that Mac Cloyes from Stratton ripping it up with the big boys! sure is!

    http://alpineimages.morephotos.com/mp_client/pictures.asp?action=viewphotos&size=fullsize&pagenum=98&id=1467977&eventid=12813

    So other than the obvious "big guns" anyone have any other fun spottings in the pictures? People they ride with? people from BOL?

    -Todd

  13. If you want versatility, I would swear by a 30-36" long GS boards set up with some seismic trucks and some nice grippy wheels. Back when I spent a decent amount of time in NYC, it was the best way to get around. You could get from times square down to soho and beat the train by several minutes. pick your board up, and walk into wherever you were going. I even rode my board down to a nice dinner in a shirt and tie, when I got there, they hung my board up in coat check. It was great. the next day, found some people running cones in the park, loosened the trucks just a hair, ran some cones, tightened them up, and did some GS, and on the way home, found a nice hill to lay a couple out.

    too bad that board is long since gone :-(

    Personally, have ridden a fair number of slalom and GS boards as well as alot of the boards like the T-board and others, and I would personally always stick with a real slalom or GS board rather than some kind of gimmick. But thats just my opinion.

    -todd

  14. 350 . . . I bet that any of the above could make you a board that would work with a conshox. The important part is that the inserts on the board be placed the right distance apart from one another.

    I am 90% sure Donek would do this for you. I am 90% sure that Coiler would do this for you . . .and I am pretty certain that Prior would do this for you.

    The conshox bolts to the front pinding inserts, and then there are a set of slots that line up with the back inserts. you need to make sure that the back inserts line up with the back portion of the slots.

    The one thing all of those board manufacturers would probably tell you is that using the conshox on their board might cause problems with warranty on your board. Since they did not specifficaly design boards to work with it, if the conshox damaged your board, they would not be liable to replace the board. Make sense?

    I am no expert on this. . . I just tried to put a conshox on one of my doneks a few years back, and was sad when it didnt work. I think I was trying to do the same thing as you . . . be able to have a 1 board quiver, where I got one board that was a little on the short side, but when I wanted a longer ride, just bolt on a conshox and go!

    E-mail me at brownt@alum.rpi.edu if you have any more questions.

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