~tb
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Posts posted by ~tb
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back to the board. . . 182-186 GS board. . . .with olympic construction. There are several on the list that would be just fine for you. at your weight, you might want to stay slightly on the soft side. here are a list of boards that I think you might like. . . (for reverence, your 161 is a 19.5 waist with a 9.8 m radius, and your 175 is 19.5 waist with an 11.9m radius, based on your boots and angle, you could probably go narrower and be happier. I ride 63/60 with 26.0 shells and fit comfortably on an 18.5 waist)
180 GS 18.5 waist, 14m SCR, the bread and butter GS board.
180 Hyunso GS 19.0 waist, 14m SCR, shorter and softer
182 Tower GS 18.0 waist, 14.5m SCR, stiffer, but not too stiff
186 CMC GSaII 18.5 waist, 15m SCR, not too stiff.
My "custom" 185 is this board: 185 Stradley GSa _18.5. Based on the name you can see that it was based off of the stradley GS board and simply narrowed down. its an 18.5 waist and 16m SCR. I would reccomend staying "below" this board in stiffness and SCR. Bob will tell you that the board is even too stiff for me at 175lbs.
Where am I rambling off to . . .
1) pick a waist width based on your boots and angles
2) stay less than 8.8 on the stiffness scale
3) I would go bigger than your 175 in both length (180-189) and SCR (13m+).
If you stay in the above range, you will end up with a "board to grow into." You will be able to ride it, but you will have to work a little to do so. It will fill out the "long" end of your quiver. When you ride the new board, and then go back to your 175, you will be able to ride your 175 much more confidently in all conditions.
once again, my 2 cents and oppinion.
-Todd
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Phil et al,
Maybe we should take this conversation to another thread and get this thread back on topic for John.
that being said. I worked a heap in the demo tent at the ECES and found it interesting to get people's feedback on the several metal boards. Personally, I thought they were a good ride. . . however many people came back disliking the board because it was too damp and they got no feedback and no "pop" out of the board. I would say that it was close to a 50 50 split.
I would guess (not being a racer) that the metal boards might be better suited in the race course then in a freecarving sense. As a global alpine snowboarding statement. . . I dont think that they are better. . .just different. Its all in how you ride (or in some cases how your coach rides) and what you want to get out of the board.
I could go on at nausium about the difference between board preference as it relates to riding styles exhibited at the ECES. There were some very interesting trends observed that really made me thing about what the "perfect" board is. I came away from the event with a different method of reccomending boards for an individual that MUST start with understanding how they ride. Without knowing and preferentially seeing how an individual rides, I personally refrain from making reccomendations as extreme as the dampness of the metal boards.
just my 2 cents. . . of pure opinion.
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ive never seen giveaway things to be that good. Well not even give aways, but logo skis and snowboards. My mountain dew skis, junk. My friend's smirnoff snowboard, trash. The list goes on. I'm sure there are high quality logo things but havent run into them. Show us a pic.
I know that sean martin @ donek has pressed promotional boards. Id love one of those!!!!
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Id get something bigger. . . the way I learned how to ride my 185 was to get a 195. . . The way I learned how to ride my 195 was to get a 205. Get something 10cm(ish) longer than your current "long board."
Based on the list of boards sean has, you are better of going with the olympic upgrade instead of the custom. There are several 185ish boards that would fit the bill.
just my 2 cents.
-Todd
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Why would you go for the 5 position adjuster?
Best,
István
István,
Thanks for the reply,
I prefer the 5 position ajduster because I like being able to ride different setting dependant on the snow conditions. My favorite for good snow is locked 3 in front and locked 2 in back. I ride about 4 other combinations over the course of the year, and I also like to be able to put them in "walk" or open mode for well . . .walking, standin in the gondi line, working the demo tent etc etc.
you said you did not like the RAB that you currently have, what are you looking to change to?
~tb
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Alright,
Time for new boots. . .
I have been riding the AF600's (todays suzuka) quite happily for the past 3 seasons. Prior to that it was the SB225. My foot does not like the Head boots, so lets not even go there. Im trying to pick between the Suzukas and the Indys and having a tough time deciding.
My gut feeling is to stick with the suzuka/AF600 boot with the whole "if it aint broken, dont try to fix it" mentality. . . but then someone said, if you havent tried something else, how do you know that it isnt broken . . . DAMN YOU BOB. So now I am re-thinking. IF I switch to the Indys, I know that I will be switching out the RAB for the 5 position adjuster.
I am looking for feedback from the few people out there that have owned or atleast ridden both boots (or the AF equivelants). Im looking for educated opinions to either sway me towards the Indy, or convince me that I am on the right boot.
Money, or the fact that the suzukas come default with the 5 position adjuster should not be part of the decision. I will be riding step-ins if anyone cares. As more background, I like longer length, stiff boards with bigger sidecuts. I like long sweeping turns with just a hint of "pop" in the tail. Im happiest when I have enough time in a long low turn to both make and consume a martini!
thanks in advance
-Todd
PS: Yes I did do a search, and found lots of input on suzuka VS lemans, but not much between suzuka and indy. If someone finds a thread I should read, I would be all ears (well, eyes I guess).
Rob, I already have your oppinion, Bob, I have your questions. Anyone else?
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I have a pair for ya. TD2's, step-in, great condition, yellow e-rings. you pick 0,3 or 6 degree.
let me know if you are intersted.
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Confucius say "Man who lay down snowboard will not have snowboard blown over."
I suppose that's enough wise-assery for one thread. Seriously, making this a monday through friday event without any warning made it a waste of time for anyone who wasn't there during the week.
Jeff,
I have refrained from posting what I initiall wrote in response to the above.
If I could have controlled the weather, or predicted it, I would have put out more warning. I probably would have also ordered more snow, and more daylight hours so I could have put in equal times in the demo tent and on snow. I also would extend winter by another month or so to make things less chaotic and find a week that better fits everyone's schedule. Certain things are out of our control at events like this. I wish that wasnt true but it just is.
Laying down 60-80 boards on the snow, and having no tent would have gotten us kicked out for sure. Had you been there on friday I think you would have had an appreciation of this. I know that you traveled very far from carrabassett valley maine to sugarloaf maine and I once again apologize for this inconvience for you.
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Hello everybody.
I've got a pair of TD2 Intec bindings but I noticed that when I try to setup them, I can choose a setup that leaves my heel free to move a little or another setup that doesn't allow the pins to engage.
The right setup would be in the middle between the two but the TD2 has just "certain" holes (so positions).
I didn't have such trouble with F2 Intec since they have got a screw without interruptions.
With the intec system, if you don't lock properly the boot, a small "movement" takes place and make your feeling with the board go away.
Does any of you solved such problem? I mean: putting a sticker or something similar to make tha bail thicker in order to lock the boot better?
Thanks a lot for your answers,
regards.
Ric,
Did you try using the fine adjustment on the toe block? unscrew the 2 shoulder bolts on the toe bails. With the bail loose, you will find that you can thread the end fittings on or off by several turns. I believe that each turn gives you approximately 1mm of adjustment. After having worked in the Demo tent this past week, I found that you could accomodate just about any boot setup with careful adjustment of those screws. MOST of the time, we didnt even have to go that far.
-Todd
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I have owned most of the catek line of bindings thus far, and these are my favorites by far.
YES, there is an additional part that makes them a little tricky to set up the first time. once you have set them up once though, everything is a breeze.
I have about 20 days in this season on mine and here are my thoughts.
1) prior to a previous poster, I find the dipstick VERY usefull. Put the dipstick in on the high side, mark the lowest visible line with your thumb nail, move to the low side, and count the marks shown. Want better repeatability, buy a set of calipers, take the depth measurement through the dipstick hole.
2) feel, compared to the OS1's, the OS2's seem to have a little more "snap" without sacraficing rigidity.
3) They are lighter than the OS1's. By how much. . . I have that written down at work.
4) For the way I ride, they are far superior to the OS1's. I KNOW I ALWAYS ride 63/60. I like to adjust my cant/lift settings almost daily. I appreciate that in the OS2's that I dont have to worry about moving the binding angle while adjusting the cant/lift. furthermore, with the powerplate and tilt cups, you can run far lesser torques on the king pin and set screw.
5) someone already said it. . . no more little dimples in the base plate to strip out. Much more confidence inspiring.
Not much else to say, other than I have sold all my other bindings and steped up to OS2's across the board.
drink the cool-aid, im sure you will like it :-)
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I would like to apologize for the lack of demo tent you are refering to on saturday. On friday, we had to fight all day long to keep the tent from blowing away with one partial knock down of the board rack.
We awoke on saturday to sustained winds of 20mph with gusts greater than 40 mph and knew we would have no chance of keeping the tent from blowing away. It was a decision on my part with input from multiple sponsors that (for safety reasons) it would not be in our best interests to set up. We tried our best to spread the word to those on hill, but unfortuneately, not everyone got the message.
I apologize for the inconvience but hope all understand.
-Todd
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I am hoping sean stops in here, but I think that they might have changed from 0/90 to 1 degree base and 1 degree side at some point. That means that the answer would be dependant on when the board left the factory.
Sean!??!?
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Was out demoing a highly tapered board this weekend. I noticed how well it carved fakie. . . and then began thinking about how well a flared board would carve. Here's my 2 cents.
For a beginner carver who is not inclinating their board enough, it would help and allow a better carve without sliding the board (ala my carving fakie abilities). I do however believe that it would all go to hell in a hand basket as soon as one were to become compitent enough to get the board well up on edge. It would go from easy to carve to waaaaaaaaaay too hooky. Then when your riding goes to the next level beyond that, you might start considering some amount of taper for carving.
Ill have to think about the technical reasons why . . . I need to ponder this a little more.
~tb
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what are you looking for, and how much are you willing to spend?
I know of some bindings near by.
-Todd
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hands down, my donek 195 custom. 18.5 cm waist, 16m sidecut, no taper. Beautiful flex pattern. as you said, this one feels like an extension of my own body. but thats just for me personally. go anywhere, do anything.
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sale pending with BOL user:
gray_on_tray
If deal doesnt go through, will repost to this thread.
Thanks all for the interest.
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several people have contacted me asking for pictures. Pictures are available in the following links:
http://www.ourwalden.net/art/catek_wcr_short_1.jpg
http://www.ourwalden.net/art/catek_wcr_short_2.jpg
http://www.ourwalden.net/art/catek_wcr_disks.jpg
most likely they have been claimed, but just incase that falls through, always worth having a second person on the list.
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Burton Craig Kelly Air
Burton Alp 164
Burton FP 167
Dynastar Course 155 asym
Elan Ballistic 155
Rossi Throttle 175 Prototytpe
Rossi Throttle 175 production
Elan Ballistic 173
Some elan 160ish freecarve board
Volant 173
Elan Team stock 185 (I wish I could get this board back. Anyone have it?!?!)
Burton Team Stock 185
Prior 4WD 169?!?
Prior WCR 185
Donek 185 (the first one)
Donek 185 custom
Donek 195 custom
Donek incline 160 something
Sims burner 197
Sims burner 197
Donek 175 custom
Donek 205 custom
Donek 205 custom
Donek 195
Donek 185
Think that sums it up, but im sure I will edit later to add more that I have forgotten about.
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Anybody try/use Reliable Racing's Carver Pro glove? Next time I'm down in Glens Falls I'm going to try 'em on for size.
Yup,
I use the above glove as my only glove! Going into season 2 on them and loving them. Several people at my home mountain have picked them up and love them as well. they hold up well, and for me are the right temperature. Some people say that they are a wee bit on the cold side and only use them on warmer days. today started out at 12 degrees F and I had no issues.
Only small problem with them is that where the glove closure is, there is a hole (by design). In order to stay warm, long underware with thumb holes is a must, otherwise you end up with one little cold spot on your wrist. Or, you could order them slightly large and wear a liner underneath.
I used to go through 2 pairs of gloves a season, now I am going through a second season with these and it looks like I might get a third.
Oh, and by the way, all of us hand draggers need to work together to keep our hands off the snow!!! ;-)
~tb
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Alright,
Time to upgrade my bindings. I have an old, heavily used cateK world cups that will soon be collecting dust. Yes they are scratched up and worn in a bit. they aint too pretty and I have ridden them damn hard. (dont want to mis-represent anything). I will get them from the condo this weekend and have pictures next week. Anyone intersted in them?
I dont know if they have reasonable market value or not. I know if the offers are too low, it is wiser for me to hold onto them as a pair of spares, but, cash can always fund other toys!
Guess I am just "fishing" to see if there is any interest. Prefer local for easy of transaction.
~tb
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Got the specs and it's the same as the 195 Stradley you posted above - 18.5 waist. Stoked to try this thing out. 185 is the longest I've ridden before. The chilis are a bit tacky I guess - but the standard Donek topsheet is kind of bland and already in my quiver. At least it's not plastered with some lame corporate sponsor marketing like Coors or Jagermeister.
I own 2 out of those 3 195's. . . they both rip! you should be quite pleased with it.
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Who determined you only get $150? Fed-ex? Sean? you?
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for the whoooooooollllllllllle thing. Im really looking forward to this one. Roped off trail!!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO.
I love sugarloaf. cant wait to get back there!
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I went from an alp164 to a FP167 then quickly to a donek 185. The alp and fp are completely different boards. Especially back when I made the switch (the FP was and 18.0 cm waist board at the time). I personally felt at the time, that the only NOTABLE difference though was the required binding angles on the narrower board. (yes it was more stable, yes you could push the nose harder, yes it required a little more finesse)
What kind of turns do you enjoy making? I personally think you will find that the fp157 makes tight slalom style turns, whereas when you get up into the 160 range they switch over to more GS style turns. I think either board would work for your weight, just make sure you pick the one that matches the "style" turns you are looking to make. If it were me, I would look for something just a hair longer than the fp157.
How are you guys transporting your longboards?
in Carving Central
Posted
a 205cm board fits perfectly between the trunk of a subaru wrx and the shifter when in 4th gear. My 175 was built because it fits between the trunk and does not come in front of the passanger seat. 85 and 95 are someplace inbetween.
DO NOT get a roof rack, unless its a box. Ive heard questionable stories there as well with salt damage to edges. In my opinion, I will sooner drive from the roof than put my boards there ;-)