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Buell

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Posts posted by Buell

  1. Don't worry Kipp, I've still got enough pow decks for the season. If your Tanker doesn't sell for enough, I might have to add that one too. :biggthump

    Not quite healed from the hardware removal surgery last week, but I am definitely ready to snowboard. Keep the snow coming, we are expecting an amazing year to make up for last season. We should be in your area around the 20th of December.

  2. <table class="questiontableborder" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="questionQ questionrowpadding questionrow1bg" style="padding-left: 15px; line-height: 1;" valign="top">Q: </td><td class="questioncontent questionrowpadding questionrow1bg" valign="top" width="633">Too bad the board wasn't regular. You would have made a sale</td></tr></tbody></table>

    <table class="questiontableborder" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><td class="questionA questionrowpadding" style="padding-left: 15px; line-height: 1;" nowrap="nowrap" valign="top">A: </td><td class="questioncontent questionrowpadding" valign="top">Thank you anyway.</td></tr></tbody></table>

    Funny stuff. Alright, who almost bought this thing? :lol:

    ONLY 1 HOUR AND 20 MINUTES LEFT!!!!! Beware of snipers!

  3. Pogo 180 Longboard for sale - SOLD!

    Gorgeous board in near-mint condition. If I were a collector, I'd hang it on the wall. Too beefy for my 145 pounds and riding style. This board would cost about $1400 delivered to the US.

    Purchased new from Pogo in summer 2006. Only ridden for 5 days, a few runs per day. A few minor topsheet scratches and one small liftline ding (pictured). Base and edges are perfect. The board is pictured with storage wax.

    More photos available. Please email me through my profile.

    Length: 180 cm

    Edge: 133 cm

    Width at nose: 30.7 cm

    Width at center: 25.3 cm

    Width at tail: 30.5 cm

    SCR: 8.5 m

    Pogo's 180 Longboard page

    Thanks,

    Buell

    post-2671-141842236418_thumb.jpg

    post-2671-141842236418_thumb.jpg

  4. abakker, You might get some other opinions before adding lift in your shoes to compensate for, what sounds like, a body alignment issue. It sounds like your legs are the same length, you are just favoring one side and pulling up one side through your hips and into your back. A good bodyworker / PT / chiro might be able to actually help with the root cause of the misalignment.

    I believe Mike T just went through this, hopefully he will chime in on this thread, otherwise you might PM him.

    Take care,

    Buell

  5. Galen, I could get one, but since I would only need it a few times a year, it doesn't seem worth it. We drive this truck 20,000 miles a year and I like the gas savings. It works fine in the snow, except going up this one road, which is about 4 miles long, when there is snow on it.

    I will sell you my Pogo 180 Longboard (that would get me part way there ;)), but since you don't weigh more than me, it is probably not for you either.

    Interesting thought about the weight and the front end.

  6. I'd been leaning toward a Never Summer Titan or an Arbor A-Frame--and then after I learned of Tankers.....

    Looks like you were leaning well, and your board may be fine. It is true that any snowboard should carve if the rider can carve, but some snowboards are much easier to carve on than others since factors built into the board will be a large factor in determining what carve it makes. Too short of a small radius, overly soft twin tip will likely be quite annoying to carve on. It will easily twist off and wash out with any speed and it will want to make the tightest little carves.

    A higher quality board with a bit larger sidecut and a bit more stiffness (torsional and longitudinal) can go a long way toward a board actually being an enjoyable carver.

  7. One of the mountains we will ride this winter has a very difficult road to get up when it snows. It is the only road my 2WD Tacoma with snow tires has had any difficulty (I had to put on chains) during snow season. On a powder day it is all 4WD vehicles with good tires except for us, with chains, and another guy in the same truck with no chains (should have asked him).

    For this year we are keeping the Tacoma so I am looking for thoughts on how to improve my traction and climbing. The road is not safe for adding chains if I need them once I start up it.

    I am considering combinations of several options:

    Adding more sandbags to the back (I already run up to 400 pounds).

    Adding a set of studded tires on the rear drive wheels (ice is not an issue).

    Getting a pair of "the best studless" snow tires. I currently use a brand that no one ever mentions

    Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Buell

  8. Thanks John,

    I missed the part about the 24 cm wide Axxess. That would be an interesting board. The Donek olympic core has received excellent reviews. It would likely be the stiffest board (even softened a bit) that you would find that is wide enough to use softies, which isn't necessarily a good thing, but it might work if your soft boots are really stiff.

  9. I disagree that you can't carve on a alpine oriented board with a soft setup. It's not the material that restricts you, but it's the rider himself. An alpine board with hardboots will only help you with a better carve (more control).

    Icy conditions, take a relative soft flexing but stiff torsional wise! board, it will hold better than a very stiff one, and it will give you more comfort. If you have a soft set up which gives enough support, you can ride it on an alpine oriented board, no problem. I ride a POGO Longboard 175 with softies and also can race this one with my soft setup (I also have Vans boots with that BOA thing, stiff enough!). My soft set up is a rather supportive one. Racing Skiers have a problem to overtake me with that alpine oriented POGO. That Donek Axxes with a soft setup and that wide waist looks fine to me. A nice allrounder for some one with a bad knee. With that 24 cm waist you will have a nice platform for the more powdery days. Don't know how stiff that Prior ATV is, but looks like a good one too, I think with a radius of about 10m, it's a turny one for sure. The only downsite with a wider board s that the edge change will be a little less faster but you will also have more comfort on it. May be you have to wait a little and look in the classifieds for a good secondhander. There will be interesting boards dropping in when the first snow is there for sure. Seems that an allround alpine oriented carveboard will suit you best. So no Silberpfeil for sure (not good in softy snow conditions).

    Hans, your Pogo Longboard probably has about a 25 cm waist. It is not a board that most of us would call "alpine", but I don't think anyone here would disagree that that is a great board to carve on in softies (though probably not in John's budget at the moment). I actually have a 180 Pogo Longboard and it is a great softy carver, although I usually only carve in hardboots.

    IIRC, the Donek Axxess is a 21.5 cm waist, not 24. This puts it beyond the reach of softboot and binding angles, unless someone has really small feet. However the Prior ATV is about 23.5, which is possible with steep angles.

    Basically John, softboots will carve great when matched to the proper board. You really need to look at boards that are 23.5 cm wide (Prior ATV) and wider. This will keep your binding angles in the range that the soft boots and bindings are designed to work (typically under 40 degrees).

    The Madd BX, Steepwater, Donek Incline, Tankers, Neversummer boards are often mentioned on this site as great softboot carvers. There are certainly others out there.

  10. Beautiful shot.

    I spent a year in Taos a while back and I still think about hiking in the mountains with my dog. It is so amazing to be in those big aspen groves blazing with fall color. When the breeze comes through, those bright yellow leaves fall from the trees, and spin to the ground all around you. That is a great area.

  11. just get a board with more surface area.

    I have found it is more complex than that.

    First off, I think a person's style of riding will have a great effect on what board specifications will work well for them in powder.

    Beyond surface area though, the flex (particularly in the nose) seems to have a lot to do with "float" in powder. A softer nose will bend up and keep your board on top of the snow. A stiffer nose will drive straight into the snow and sink, unless a high speed is maintained.

    The length and shape (radius) of the nose will affect the ride in powder. The typical nose on a swallow tail is an example - long and gradual.

    Taper also has a strong effect on "float" by letting the tail ride a little lower than the nose, thereby keeping the nose up. Some people like taper, others do not. My 156 Fish and my 160 Khyber float exceptionally well, much better than my 173 freeride board and a couple of other larger boards I have ridden.

    All that said, my Tanker 200 which is fairly soft, has some taper, and by far the most surface area, floats the best of all. At 145 pounds, I can enjoy all the low angle powder no one else can touch. :biggthump

  12. Ealely, while I have seen people tearing it up off-piste on several brands of carving AM boards with hardboots, and no doubt there are many here who swear by them, I am definitely in the soft boots and soft board for soft snow camp.

    I have hit some powstashes off the groomers on the Axxess and I find it too stiff for the powder. In heavy powder it could be fun because the heavy snow can bend it, but in most soft snow off-piste conditions, it just does not bend enough to be easy and enjoyable to ride for me.

    You might consider picking up a board better suited to the powder that you can ride with hardboots for a first step. If you can find one used, if you don't enjoy it, you could always sell it again and not lose too much money.

    Buell

  13. RJ, I have sold a few and given a couple of others away, so it is not that bad.;) Besides, there are two of us.

    It is so hard to know if I will like a board by looking at it. You've just got to ride them a few times. The Spearhead does look promising enough to pick one up though, and those new Tankers sure are pretty, but since I already have an 07.:rolleyes:

  14. Sorry, couldn't resist. :D

    I did buy one over the summer, but it is unridden at the moment. I own and have ridden both the Powstick 176 and the Khyber 160. I really enjoy both of those boards, so I have high hopes for the Spearhead.

    I have seen the Spearhead mentioned on various forms, but I have yet to see anything from someone who has ridden one.

    Buell

  15. Whew, got 'em!!! The 4 long (1 1/2" to 2 1/2") hollow titanium screws in the X-ray are these same screws on my table! Sooooo nice to have them out. I still have the 2 ACL repair screws.

    A couple of months ago I hit a wall on my rehab. I thought I had damaged something so I went to visit my surgeon. He told me that my screw heads were catching on my IT band and they should come out when I was ready. It wasn't too bad, so I scheduled surgery on October 12 since I wanted to get some more surfing in this fall before the operation and rehab.

    The last two weeks were pretty rough, with the last week being the worst. It had become quite unpleasant to walk. Apparently, one of the screws had backed out 5 millimeters! :eek: Since the screws are on the outside of the bottom of my femur (the knee), my soft tissue would brush across the head whenever I moved my knee.

    Now, it is time to be excited about the upcoming snow season!!!! :biggthump:biggthump:biggthump

    post-2671-14184223633_thumb.jpg

    post-2671-141842236333_thumb.jpg

  16. Welcome to BOL.

    As BlueB said, on softies you will need to ride wider boards than most of the AM alpine decks. A lot of people mention the Prior ATV as a great hardboot / softboot board. A BX board might also be great for you.

    While adding a pair of hardboots and bindings will certainly add cost, my hardboots are wonderfully comfortable. Unless you walk around on hard surfaces a lot, comfort is not an issue.

    You can probably do a search for "soft boot boards", or something like that and find some previously posted info. Likewise, you could also post in the main forum looking for opinions. I expect you will find some helpful people there that might overlook this in the WTB section.

    Good luck, Buell

  17. His opinion promotes and even celebrates personal injury, and damn close to fascist practices. Anyone who condones this sort of activity is going way beyond stating a simple disagreeable opinion.

    :rolleyes:

    Get real D-sub. It's just Gleb.

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