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279mm UPZ shell and TD3 SW step-ins?


slabber

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I have been using TD3 standards and step-ins successfully with my UPZ RC11 boots with the small 279mm shell size (23-25.5MP) without needing to do anything special.  

Was going to set up some TD3 Sidewinders and found the rear step-in heel block is too far back.  Bomber references flipping around the front toe block for the TD3 standards for boots smaller than mine - looks like I will need to do this for the Sidewinders.  

https://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/TD3FittingtoSmallBoots.pdf

Have others done this and if so, any concerns?

Screenshot 2023-02-13 at 9.54.26 PM.png

Edited by slabber
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I begged Fin to put an angle on the back of the heel piece to permit this, but the die was already made and expensive. He suggested I buy real boots. (i.e. not UPZ) 😆 Thanks Fin! 😠

You need that ramp to engage the little pins to add preload to the system. Flipping the block around means all loads get taken by the big pin and its plastic bushing. Sorry. 

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4 minutes ago, Corey said:

 

You need that ramp to engage the little pins to add preload to the system. Flipping the block around means all loads get taken by the big pin and its plastic bushing. Sorry. 

Sorry, it's the toe block that gets flipped around to keep the boot further back which will allow the heel to engage properly.  

The photo above originally had a STD toe block in the normal orientation which I didn't want to include to confuse the situation.

 

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It'll work but you lose a feature:
When you flip the toe block around, you don't get to use the feature of the front bail stop.

image.png.2337526051ba1fdd634916e355eed681.png
On standard bails, this isn't a problem since you are manipulating the bail to clip in anyway.
On step-in, you will need to manipulate the front bail to lock-in your boot first, which means you need to reach down to flip the front bail up. As you can imagine, this somewhat ruins the experience of the "step-in" feature.

You could add a PTFE washer to go in-between the gap between the bail end-links and the toe block to increase friction to keep the bail up when you are trying to step-in. These will need to be replaced every season.
I did that for my standard bails to prevent them from slamming into my board.
Give it a try.

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Yup, totally ok to flip the toe block around. 

You can center your boot on the board? My front foot is all the way forwards with M28 UPZs and it's still slightly biased to the heel edge.

Rear foot is fine due to sidecut taper differences. 

 

 

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Yup, thanks - will be harder to hook the toe into the bail.  I find I'm reaching down anyhow to clear snow from the binding before pushing the heel down in any case so hopefully won't be worse than that.  

Wish I'd known there was a difference in the range provided in the SW blocks vs the regular TD3s...

5 minutes ago, VSR-Alex said:

It'll work but you lose a feature:
When you flip the toe block around, you don't get to use the feature of the front bail stop.

image.png.2337526051ba1fdd634916e355eed681.png
On standard bails, this isn't a problem since you are manipulating the bail to clip in anyway.
On step-in, you will need to manipulate the front bail to lock-in your boot first, which means you need to reach down to flip the front bail up. As you can imagine, this somewhat ruins the experience of the "step-in" feature.

You could add a PTFE washer to go in-between the gap between the bail end-links and the toe block to increase friction to keep the bail up when you are trying to step-in. These will need to be replaced every season.
I did that for my standard bails to prevent them from slamming into my board.
Give it a try.

 

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4 hours ago, Corey said:

You can center your boot on the board? My front foot is all the way forwards with M28 UPZs and it's still slightly biased to the heel edge.

Rear foot is fine due to sidecut taper differences. 

This is the issue with UPZ in smaller sizes (24-28).  Even at its most forward position the boot is set back on the binding.

Putting your boot heel in line (directly over) the edge will mean your toe shell is NOT aligned over its edge by about 1-2cm (less with M27-28). This typically occurs at the front foot, not the back.

I found this especially acute with SW's but occurs with all available bindings. The only one I could move the boot adequately forward is Catek which is not a great option IMHO.

Such are the joys of small size UPZ.  I'd say move the boot as far forward in the binding as possible using the block flip, align as best as you can (maybe be allow some overhang on the heel) and just ride!

Or do a mod. - Drilling for F2's, routing for TD3's...or change to Deeluxe/MS...or forget it all and just ride!

  

Edited by rjnakata
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