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VSR-Alex

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  • Location
    Harrisonburg, Virginia USA
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Snowshoe, and Massanutten. Sometimes Seven Springs PA.
  • Occupation?
    Mechanical Engineer
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Kessler Alpine 185 #2
    (RIP) Kessler Alpine 185 #1
    OES FC 169 Kevlar
    Donek Incline custom: 162 8.5-10.5 vsr 29.5cm waist
    Old Ride Yukon freeride board 159w
    (RIP) SG Full Race Pro Team 180
  • Current Boots Used?
    UPZ RC12, and K2 Thraxis "stiff" soft boots
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Bomber TD3 SW, and Burton Cartel for soft setup
  • Snowboarding since
    2001
  • Hardbooting since
    2019

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  1. Yesterday, I got to the lift line for the first chair. The main lifty said "Yes, the red rocket is back!" (My outfit is red) I don't know how I should take this comment.
  2. If anyone asks, I'm practicing my "setup turns".
  3. I don't have nearly as much experience as you do, but I will throw in my 2 cents. Binding flex affects edge-to-edge response and your ability to flex the board fore and aft, not necessarily edge-hold when you are in the middle of a turn. If you really liked the Catek, the Bomber TD3 standard is the most similar. TD3 sidewinder with step-in and stiff elastomer pads might feel similar to TD3 standard. I would recommend trying to ride F2 bindings (a lot more flexible than TD3), and see if you like it or not.
  4. What I imagine WinterGold's camera setup to be: The thing gotta survive explosions to be in his videos.
  5. If you have the extra cash, the TD3 Sidewinders are softer than TD3 standard, and can be configured with softer durometer elastomer pads to get a much softer feeling flex. The lateral flex can be changed individually on each binding and be made asymmetric by using different pads right to left.
  6. Hey RJ, The plate got banana'd, but kept integrity to still hold the bindings. No cracks but the binding plate yielded and is a bit bent so it's done. The plate made the board extremely damp and you don't really feel any uneven snow under you. Feels like ice skating a bit; a very smooth feeling. It is difficult to feel how fast you are going though. The plate deck has some flex to it. Slow speed maneuvering is terrible because it is so torsionally rigid along with the longitudinal deck flex. It's also very heavy. I prefer my Allflex soft plate just to have better low speed handling for free riding around resorts. It is really designed to work with F2 style bindings. The aluminum mounting plate and outer channels are raised above the black plastic plate, so if you use Bombers then only the center disk will be in contact with the board. PM me if you want to know specific details of the plate or want more info or pictures on binding clearance. Read Daveo's review for another opinion.
  7. If you don't find a seller on here... I got one here, board included: Just kidding; it's toast. Here are some Ebay listings for one new and one original version plate. I bought mine from the same seller: New version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234908592725?hash=item36b1a4aa55:g:Zk8AAOSw9T9iSfFB Original version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234908605265?hash=item36b1a4db51:g:708AAOSwujNj9oSm
  8. These two are absolute gems: Also, Peakpoint YouTube channel is my go-to.
  9. Drills, Drills, Drills. It saves time to develop the muscle memory to have good technique from drills than spending half the season wondering why your riding is good one run and sucks the next.
  10. I'm assuming you tried orienting the binding disk width-wise? If yes, then your binding size might be too big. I sized down the binding on purpose for my Burton Cartels due to this problem. It's hard to do that with step-ons as the toe receiver needs to be aligned with the boot Burton bindings are just...weird. Other option is to find some Donek BX plates and then you have full customization of the lateral stance position. Hard to find those though, as they are not made anymore. Still, an ordinary riser plate will allow higher edge angles without needing to shift the binding.
  11. It'll work but you lose a feature: When you flip the toe block around, you don't get to use the feature of the front bail stop. On standard bails, this isn't a problem since you are manipulating the bail to clip in anyway. On step-in, you will need to manipulate the front bail to lock-in your boot first, which means you need to reach down to flip the front bail up. As you can imagine, this somewhat ruins the experience of the "step-in" feature. You could add a PTFE washer to go in-between the gap between the bail end-links and the toe block to increase friction to keep the bail up when you are trying to step-in. These will need to be replaced every season. I did that for my standard bails to prevent them from slamming into my board. Give it a try.
  12. Hey Justin, I don't have MS .951 boots, but I believe you need to move the lower and upper nuts higher on the threaded rod to increase forward lean without changing preload. Anyone else can help with .951 adjustment?
  13. Hey Justin, I experienced this early this season and did some corrections mid-January that worked for me: If you're flexing into the front of your boots to lower your body and don't have enough static forward lean, you will most likely flex the board forward and dig in. Now not necessarily a bad thing, but you can get too much of it. You can feel this by just standing on your board on the flat, and feel the boot tongue pressure as you bend your legs. If the pressure is excessive and limiting your motion then you might be tipping the board forward as you get aggressive without realizing it, especially with a stiff setup. 2 quick suggestions to try: Increase your boot forward lean on both boots, or try a heel lift on your rear binding to see how that feels. If that doesn't work, then increase stance width by 1 inch. I'm the same height as you and my stance sits at 21 in. Bigger stance = more toe and heel lift required, so try the boot cuff first.
  14. I'll hear it at least 5 times this weekend for sure.
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