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tanker help


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Guest Pre School Rider

Jim,if you've got the inserts from the '99-'01 model-year,they'll have an Allen Wrench hex-head in the insert,5mm I think would be the wrench size.They're threaded into the wood core with a LEFT-Hand outer thread,so they can 'unscrew' if you've over-tightened the binding screws(or used a screwgun without a clutch). Once loosened they can even pull out (taking bits of wood with them) if not noticed and ridden on.You can easily thread them out if the epoxy bond has been broken Without Splintering the board.However,if you try to unthread that insert,and the topsheet starts to come with it,Stop! An insert like that can be replaced,or glued back in if the outer threads haven't been damaged,or if the insert backs out without bringing bits of board with it.If the insert needs to be replaced(say,from inner-thread damage),consider sending the board back to Rad-Air to be fixed.It may take awhile to fix it,so be aware that you may be minus a board for a good bit.On the other hand,if you're pretty sure the insert will thread out smoothly,it's not at all difficult to just swab some epoxy on the outer threading of it and thread it back into the board. If your Tanker is newer,and dosen't have the replaceable inserts(from '02-'04),it could be a warranty type situation,and it may be irrepairable or at the least very difficult to fix.

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Thanks Jason & PSR . I called roces usa this morning and got a RA# to send it back. I hope I can get it back quick (fixed or a new one) as I need it for a BC snowcat trip in march. I will miss it greatly because now I have to use my Nitro fury 176 as my powder board again --heavy!!! I am not sure what year it is, but would try to fix it if they wont do anything..(green with hibiscus flowers) . It does have the inserts that fit 5mm hex wrench . My bindings came off easily however. The whole area under the 4 inserts bubbled and showed stress cracks around each insert??? Do you use softboots or hard on yours, (are plates Ok) ? I had catek olympic SI's on mine, but could put TD1's on it... (I thought the cateks spread the force out wider) I was carving it hard however laying some nice trenchs on the groomers between the powder runs.

Jim

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Guest Pre School Rider

Yeah,that's a 1999 model,and the topsheets would get stress cracks in the gel-coat around highly stressed inserts.Usually it's not a problem,but can be if water gets in there,then freezes and expands(or you can do what I did,and run screws that're too long,then bulge the P-Tex.Doh.) I've got the 2000 model 2M Tanker,and it's had no problems with the same inserts system,but a different topsheet.I use plates on it often,both Bombers and CATEKs,though it seems to feel smoother with the CATEKs on it(that big rubber ring thingie,I suspect).I have learned to be aware of the torque I put into the bindings screws(oh,and watch the length)because of the outer threading being left-handed,and I do not use powertools on those screws. I check the inserts every time it gets remounted.If you go with Softboot bindings,keep Nidecker's LDS-based bindings in mind.They have that soft padding underneath that acts as a shock-absorber and lift,and is on several models in the lineup(700,760,800,860,Carbon).One of the better made bindings out there.Of course,if you've got CATEK bases,hey,the freeride soft binding they have pretty sweet,and compliments a Tanker nicely.

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On my 192 it actually pulled the topsheet up around the 4 inserts on my front binding.I am surprized that the front binding broke as usaully the rear front ones fail first. I used the the middle 4 inserts and it made a perfect circle bubble leaving the front/back 2 sets of inserts ok . Am I tightning the screws too much? With the cateks and the rubber ring you can tighten alot due the compression of the rubber ring. I emailed that guy from utah (necessary equip-dave tille) and he has some pretty good prices on new ones and 02/03, 01/02. Any recommendations on which years models are the strongest? The olders ones are significantly cheaper...

Jim

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Guest Pre School Rider

Look for the "Freshies" graphics(Red or Blue curved lines on white topsheet),or "Winding Road" poem graphics.These are the '02 + '03 themes respectively.Those years are the stronger cores,not the KHC type,and the inserts are t-nut type laminated in,versus threaded in.The KHC core is pretty rugged,but the Kevlar Honeycomb dosen't like taking sharp impacts.I've been amazed at the quality of the cores on Rad-Airs,but the KHC was probably made with too great an emphasis on light-weight Vs. durability.Still,I liked the overall feel,and on a big board,the weight reduction was a good thing.The '02 + '03's aren't that much heavier,but might notice the difference on a long chair ride. BTW, I was inncorrect on your Tanker's model-year.It's an '01 with a single flower at the tail,and the '00 had the 'longboard' strips with flowers in them,and might say 'millenium edition' on it too.

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Jim,

I have been riding the 2m boards since they were introduced and I agree with PSR and would recommend either the 02-03 (white topsheet with flame graphic base) or the 03-04 (they are all Crown models and are the best tankers yet). I ride the 03-04 Crown with Catek Freerides and it is awesome, and by far the best softboot set-up out there, just make sure that you use a good stiff boot with the bindings if you go with that setup.

cheers,

sandy

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